Hey guys. Broke my drive belt the other day. Doing the job myself cause I'm cheap and stubborn. I need to pull the clutch shell and hub so I can remove the inner primary. Does anyone know of any way to do this without the JIMS or Harley Davidson clutch puller for this model? The JIMS puller is pretty steep, I can't imagine what the Harley puller is. Does Harbor Freight or anyone else have a puller for less $$$ that will work or is it possible somehow to get it off without a puller? I've disassembled the clutch, removed the shaft nut, etc, but at this point the clutch shell won't budge. Any ideas?

Thanks, Any input would be appreciated.

 

I suggest getting the right tool. Breaking something because of the wrong tool can be much more expensive than just buying the right one in the first place. Look for a puller at J&P or Jireh. I mean this one:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/6100040
is $27. Or maybe this one at $40:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/630-076

How much is a new clutch hub? But if you really want to risk it, you can try a generic 3 jaw puller.

 

Thanks Dr. Hess,

Searched the web and didn't see the ones at JP.

The $40 tool looks like it will work. $40 I can live with. $80-$90 for the JIMS was a little steep!

I'll let y'all know if I have any other questions about this project.

Oh and thanks also for your tutorial on diagnosing charging issues! It was a great help when I was having stator issues a while ago.

 

Glad to help. I had to figger that stuff out way back in shovelhead daze. That '79 bitch would eat electrical systems until I found where the intermittent short was.

 

The best way to go is to use the puller obviously, I have seen people break them by using various rigged pullers. There is an old school way that I was taught and never had any problems. Take a crow bar or a tire lever, something to apply a little pressure from the backside (not a whole lot, it doesn't take that much) and thread your bolt on halfway and leave the socket on, then just a few wacks with a hammer and it will pop right off. I think there is a video of it on you tube. But again, the best and right way is with the tool. Just never had a need for it.

 

early evo clutch hubs have a reputation for cracking - this would be an excellent method to check out if this rumour is true

the proper clutch hub puller will do the trick, I use one for a 4 speed shovel box and it works fine

 

Thanks for all the input guys, I'll probably get the puller cause I need to order a belt and new rear pulley anyway. Hard to find a 70 tooth rear pulley...for some reason most places are out of stock. Might get a used one off ebay.

Fortunately I've got two bikes so I don't need to be in a rush.

 

I pulled the clutch on my 83 shovelhead if they have that style still in 88. I had a belt primary. I put a bolt with a washer to hold it together an used a $12 puller kit from harbor freight, Don't recall if it was the pulley puller or balancer puller but it worked. It's at my friends now so I can't look at which it is.

 

used pulley is a false economy, a worn out pulley will at worse literally shred a new belt, or a best mean a shorter belt life and a shorter interval until you have to repeat the entire job again

 

I know what you mean. I've only had this bike about 1 1/2 years and put maybe 12000 miles on her myself. The pulley was worn down to nothing (so worn that pieces of the worn teeth were almost razor thin, and pieces were breaking off) . I swear it wasn't that bad when I had the wheel off to change the rear tire 7 or 8 months ago. The worn teeth definitely contributed to the demise of this belt. If I do go with a used belt, it will have to be a good one.

I don't really know the history of this bike. The condition of the rear pulley makes me wonder if she's really got 170,000 miles instead of 70,000.