On two different bikes.

My bike left me stranded on the side of the road today. I fixed it, but wanted to post the fix in case this happens to someone else, a Google search will catch the symptoms and help them.

Bike was running great, then sputtered, caught, then sputtered and died, like I was out of gas. I had filled up a few days ago so knew that wasn't it. I coasted to a stop (luckily made it to a bank and parked under a shade tree).

Noticed I had no neutral light nor any lights, headlight, blinkers, nothing. No power at all. Only horn and odometer would work, along with the fender light. Those three items worked whether the bike was in ignition or accessory. This happened to me on my Road King but in that case, the ignition switch had gone bad...and I could jiggle the switch and get the bike to come back on. Not in this case so I was stumped. I took the battery out (using my handy Leatherman P4 I always carry), checked all the fuses, nothing.

Searched on my phone and found this thread that described my symptoms exactly.

http://www.hdtalking.com/electrical/..._anything.html

The fix in his case was a new ignition switch - so I got a ride home and grabbed the ignition switch from my 1995 Road King (they are the same). Popped it on the bike and it fired right up and I rode it home.

On both my Road King and my Heritage, I was able to take apart the ignition switch with only a pair of snap ring pliers. Both ignition switches were all gunky inside with old grease, and the old grease had gotten hard and prevented the switch connections from working properly. I cleaned the switches out really well and shined up the contact surfaces with some emery cloth, and both bikes are good to go again.

I post this in case this happens to someone else and they search using their phones on the side of the road....cleaning the ignition switch is the fix. I am going to put snap ring pliers in my emergency road bag.

Hope this ends up helping somebody and saving them money, as the ignition switches are rebuildable, and expensive if you buy a new one. Cleaning them is free.

 

I'm having the same problem now with my WG. I stopped by the HD dealer 70 miles from home and they gave me a run around on buying a new switch. First they wanted me to bring the bike to them to fix, I said no, then they couldn't find the right switch on their computer, wanted me to come back the next day, I said no. They finally figured out what switch to order, said I had to have the VIN to get it, I gave them my insurance card for the VIN, they said it they could cut the key for $80.00 plus buy the switch but I would have to come pick it up because they wouldn't ship it to me. I was laughing as I walked out the door and the last thing I heard the service manager saying was IF I could drop the bike off, they would fix it for........ I think I'll just take the switch apart and clean it. If that doesn't work, I'll order a aftermarket switch or wire a toggle switch in there before I buy one from harley. OK, I'm off my rant and THANK YOU SO MUCH for posting this.

 

My HD dealer gave me the same story. 10 days to order a new switch keyed for my bike.

Take it apart, it's easy. 4 ¼ bolts, one snap ring, and clean it out. Watch the spring pressure when you remove the snap ring, it'll want to spring apart and you don't want to lose the three contacts or their springs. I would bet a good cleaning and you'll be on the road like I was on two bikes now.

Keep me posted. I hope you find this useful, if it happened to me twice so I can't imagine it's that uncommon, so I wanted to let folks know a free fix.

 

BTW I made an emergency jumper just in case my switch gums up again so I'll never be stranded. I don't want to describe how to hot wire a bike so I'll leave it at that. But I will say, don't think locking your ignition is really going to slow someone down. Locking the forks is a better plan.

 

On the subject of jumper I have a 96 softail and you are correct locking your forks is a lot better the just locking the switch. Had to buy a new (previous owner lost the key) switch and it was easy replacement. Lol

 

Wow. That brings back memories.

I had a 1995 FLHTP that stranded my son and I. That's when I found out a recall had never been done..... You guessed it...... Ignition switch.

 

My 95 died while riding recently - culprit was filthy ignition switch. Service manual has a 'service' procedure.... take out the switch, clean with DeOxit and fiberglass brush, smear on some dielectric grease and reinstalled. No dreaded clicks, charging better than ever .... starts with click

 

Good intel. I do like the cost: elbow grease. Thanks for posting!
Tom

 

Happy to help...I hate to see people spending $129 on a new switch when these are so easy to clean and refurbish. Amazing to see something that is actually serviceable these days!

 

Well, I took my switch apart and it was pretty nasty. Cleaned every thing up, scuffed the contact points, a lil fresh dielectric grease and put her back together. I found one of the little pieces that goes over the springs inside the switch laying on the table SOOOOO. Get it back together with nothing left over and reinstalled. It's still a little touchy but potholes doesn't kill it now. Again, THANK YOU for posting that little nugget of info.