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I might die!
History-95 Road King new pulg wires, Dayna 2000i( yr old) new spark plugs.Top end done last yr. Miles pushing 300,000
Problem- Backfires to total loss of all power (electrical) at freeway speeds. doesn't happen during the morning only when it heats up during the day. Always within a 1/2 of the same spot on the freeway on my way home (I might be wrong but that tells me it heats to the breaking point by then). I turn off ignition for a bit (under 30sec) and it fires back up and I get home. Last time I had this issue it was the main circuit breaker under the seat( Thanks DR. Hess) I assumed it was at fault again and replaced, but no luck still have the same problem. Thanks in advance for any help and yes "Ive searched forum" |
The 2000i is in the cam chest right? What exhaust do you have? I have heard that heat from the front pipe can "cook" and ignition. I know I had that issue on a factory cam position sensor on a '98 Ultra that I changed the pipes on.
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Have you checked your battery cables and the wires on your ignition switch?
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I had the 2000I Ultima fail, the same as the Dyna, how to tell is have the timing cover off, when the engine dies see if the top dead center light on the ignition flashes when you crank it in the no start condition. If it flashes the ignition is working and a coil is breaking down, going to 2nd the ignition is failing tho.
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Is there only one circuit breaker on this bike? If there are additional circuit breakers, you might want to change them all. I had a similar problem on my '93 Fatboy. I changed all four circuit breakers and the relay. I also cleaned up the battery ground connection under the seat with my dremel. I haven't had any problems since. Over a period of time circuit breakers will weaken thermally and may not be able to carry the designed load
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Pipes are Thunder Header
Timing cover Ive had machined air flow cut into it, to keep air cooling a little stronger. Rain is not a big issue in Phoenix so not to concerned about it getting wet. Would love to check ignition but cant make it fail at home only at speed and under load. Im real dumb when it comes to electrical so please be real specific Have manual and cant find other breakers. |
there are more breakers than the main. i would change all of them. 1 breaker is for the ignition system, 1 for the lights. and 2 more for other stuff that i can't recall right now.
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Hit it with a heat gun and see if it fails. Or hit it with freeze spray (Radio Shack) when it fails and see if it wakes it back up. Replace if it does.
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All blade circuit breakers all good.
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ok took a heat gun to ignition and it ran like a champ at 200 degrees of air blowing on it, could the VOES switch cause this problem! Something is happening cause, I stop and let it set a few seconds and then restarts and runs fine.
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Originally Posted by Bengo
(Post 14940801)
I stop and let it set a few seconds and then restarts and runs fine.
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Oh no doubt about it. Your going to DIE. We all do. Lol
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When my 1988 FLHTC started doing that I replaced the VOEs and the coil and that fixed it. Can't say which one it was but, I think it was the VOEs. Bought a new one on Amazon. I had a new coil already so, while the tank was off I replaced it. Nevertheless, my gut says it was the VOEs.
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Only reason I don't think it's VOES is because of the total loss of electrical. Unless I'm thinking wrong, please let me know.
Breaker makes since, but it's new. It's getting hot, loose all power, 30 sec then fires up. I'll try and make it fail at home, but I gotta get there first this afternoon. |
Call the dealer with your vin # and see if the ignition recall was done on it. My 95 did the same thing and got a new ignition for free on recall. Think you can also check on harley moco website for recalls on your model
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Update
All fixed! At least I think so. Wire going from hot (copper post) on breaker to started, had a break in it, that some one just used electrical tape on. It blended great and couldnt see it till I took it out to clean connections. Over half of the strands were broken so I figured it would heat up and trip the breaker. Road home today temps pushing 90 and no problem. We'll see if it lasts. "Keep it simple stupid"
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Glad it worked out. I love those kinds of fixes
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Would be a very good idea to service your ignition switch as well. I've had two give me intermittent loss of all electrical power (including on the freeway..scary). A good cleaning takes care of it. Happened on my 95 RK, when I got my 03 Springer I figured it didn't need to be cleaned yet - when I was broken down on the side of the road I realized I was wrong, same problem.
My friend GTMalone made this nice "how to" with pictures and I must have posted it a dozen times now. I strongly recommend anyone with the newer style ignition with the barrel key (like your 95 Road King) do this simple service before you lose all power like you shut it off...which could (and did) happen to me while riding both times. Easy and free.
Originally Posted by gtmalone
APPLICABLE YEAR/MODEL 1997-1999 Evo 2000-2003 TwinCam SPECIALTY TOOLS REQUIRED circlip piers 1. TECHNICAL AREAS ADDRESSED 1.1 - Intermittent electrical problems can be caused by either a bad terminal connection on the ignition switch or a bad contact inside the ignition switch. Symptoms you may experience are as follows: - runs rough or will not start - speedometer, odometer and tachometer (factory) are not working - various lighting circuits are not working - complete power failure 2. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE 2.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room. 2.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank. Disconnect all plugs and remove the trip reset switch from the console. 2.4 - Remove the ignition switch from the console. 2.5 - Remove the circlip from the back side of the ignition switch. 2.6 - Remove the plastic contactor ring from the switch. Be sure to capture the 3 springs and 3 contacts from inside the switch. See Figure 1. 2.7 - Pull the key lock assembly from the switch housing. 2.8 - Wipe the old grease from the switch housing. Clean the switch contacts and the switch terminals with fine sand paper. Wipe sand paper residue from the switch housing. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the internal contact areas. See Figure 2. 2.9 - Reassemble the contactor ring, contact springs and contacts. Apply a small amount of grease to the contacts. See Figure 3. 2.10 - Reassemble the ignition switch. Insert the key lock assembly into the switch housing. It will only fit one way. Make note of the positions of the contacts on the contactor ring. The two contacts close together go next to the switch terminals. Reinstall the contactor ring onto the switch housing. See Figure 4. NOTE: This will be easier if you hold the switch housing in a mostly key side up position and reinstall the contactor ring from the bottom. 2.11 - Reinstall the ignition switch into the console. At this point it is recommended to perform the steps in Section 3 - 3.3 through 3.6. 2.12 - Reconnect all wiring to the console. Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly. 2.13 - Reinstall the console on the bike. ALL DONE! 3. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTOR SERVICE 3.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room. 3.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank. 3.1 - Make a note of which color wire connects to each ignition switch terminal. 3.2 - Remove the connector from the ignition switch. 3.3 - Extract the 3 spade connectors from the connector housing. There is a small tab on the spade connectors. Insert a pick or small jewelers screwdriver into the housing to press down on the tab while pulling the spade connector from the housing. NOTE: If the housing is melted you may have to use wire cutters to cut away the plastic from the connectors. 3.4 - Clean the inside of the spade connectors with a paper nail file cut down to fit inside of the connector. Clean the switch terminals with fine sand paper. 3.5 - Push each spade connector onto the ignition switch. If any of the connectors feel loose, LIGHTLY squeeze the loops on each connector to tighten the grip. They should be slightly difficult to push onto the terminals. 3.6a - If the connector housing is usable, reinsert the spade connectors into the housing making note of their original positions. You may have to bend the tab on the spade connector for it to catch in the housing. Push the connector onto the ignition switch. It will only fit one way. 3.6b - If the connector housing was melted beyond use, put a short length of heat shrink tubing over each spade connector and heat to shrink. Push the spade connectors onto the proper switch terminals. Put some sort of label inside the console as a reminder. See Figure 5. 3.7 - Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly. 3.8 - Reinstall the console on the bike. ALL DONE! Links to figures: IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE FIGURES |
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