Cam Cover Replacement
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Joined: May 2015
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From: Long Beach
Cam Cover Replacement
I'm in the process of reassembling the engine for my 93 Evo. The cases were split and the cam bearing hole was bored out and sleeved as it was chewed up from what looked like the previous owner trying to pry the bearing out with a screwdriver. The cases were then line bored and new bearings and new flywheels put in and cases lapped together and bolted back together.
The OEM cam cover has chrome flaking off and would be the only thing that would look kinda shitty on an otherwise fresh new-looking motor (cases, heads, and cylinders all got water vapor honed).
Question is, could I replace the cam cover with a new Drag Specialties cover without line reaming the cam bushing to the cases? I don't want to split the cases again just for a new cam cover. Is there a way to check concentricity of the cam bushing to the case? Would I be better off just running the OEM cone and saying screw the chrome flaking off?
The OEM cam cover has chrome flaking off and would be the only thing that would look kinda shitty on an otherwise fresh new-looking motor (cases, heads, and cylinders all got water vapor honed).
Question is, could I replace the cam cover with a new Drag Specialties cover without line reaming the cam bushing to the cases? I don't want to split the cases again just for a new cam cover. Is there a way to check concentricity of the cam bushing to the case? Would I be better off just running the OEM cone and saying screw the chrome flaking off?
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: NC USA
I've used several DS cam covers after the MoCo discontinued the '84-'92 ones and the top breather covers are now n/a.
They are pre-honed and the bushing fit is good as factory on all the ones I used.
Full disclosure - the last one I used did not leak, but had a very tiny seep on the top portion with a dry OEM gasket. (left a snail trail of oil vapor after 300 miles) Tried another gasket and same issue. Had to use a thin film of RTV to correct it. But again, bushing fit was excellent.
They are pre-honed and the bushing fit is good as factory on all the ones I used.
Full disclosure - the last one I used did not leak, but had a very tiny seep on the top portion with a dry OEM gasket. (left a snail trail of oil vapor after 300 miles) Tried another gasket and same issue. Had to use a thin film of RTV to correct it. But again, bushing fit was excellent.
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: W. Texas
I have seen and done it myself while not the best way it seemed to have worked out ok the 3 times I have personnel knowledge of.
Each time the cam being used was fitted to the new cam cover and bushing being installed.
It's gonna be something of a gamble period.
I'm not telling to do it only what I did. Your choice your gamble
WP
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Poolville
It has been done with success.. Just pay attention to possible gear whine..
The other option it to remove all the chrome and polish the aluminum the best you can.. Others here have done it with very good results...
The other option it to remove all the chrome and polish the aluminum the best you can.. Others here have done it with very good results...
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From: Long Beach
Thank you guys for the replies! Good to know that the DS had good alignment on the ones you've run, I'll order one then. I found that Jim's makes a tool to check alignment between cam bearing and bushing, Jim's tool #2280. I'll see if I can find one and check the DS cover just for reassurance. If the fit is good then great. But if not, I'll remove the chrome from the stock cover and polish it. That was a good suggestion, didn't think of that.
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: NC USA
If not for the repair of the bearing bore, I'd put a new DS cover on and wouldn't give it a second thought. Believe me, if it's out of line your stock cover will be too! Since the repair wasn't needed because of a spun bearing, chances are they got it right. But I can certainly appreciate your being meticulous to check it, for sure.
If the bottom end isn't already together, or you don't have a problem with pulling the pinion gear back off, use your cam as the "tool." Otherwise, just order any used Evo cam off ebay (they are cheap if you look around) and press the gear off - use that as a tool to check for binding/alignment. that's what I'd do before ordering a $100. tool for a one time use.
If the bottom end isn't already together, or you don't have a problem with pulling the pinion gear back off, use your cam as the "tool." Otherwise, just order any used Evo cam off ebay (they are cheap if you look around) and press the gear off - use that as a tool to check for binding/alignment. that's what I'd do before ordering a $100. tool for a one time use.
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Joined: May 2015
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From: Long Beach
That's a great idea too, thanks for that! I can take the pinion gear back off and press off the gear from the stock cam. I have a Dave Mackie cam I'm going to run in it so the OEM one is in the spare parts bin. I ordered the Drag Specialties cam cover. I might be over thinking this but just want to get it right after doing a full motor rebuild haha.
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What's the lift on the DM cam..? Stock Evo's can only handle up to .510 lift safely... Valve springs....
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Joined: May 2015
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From: Long Beach
The DM cam is a 580 lift. I had new valves, valve springs, guides, and seals put in. The new stuff is supposed to handle up to 600 lift.
Just got done pressing the shaft off the gear on the stock cam. Found a thumb screw that fits the end of the cam so I can turn it by hand when it's in the case. I'll put a dial indicator down from the lifter block mount to measure runout of the shaft when the new cam cover comes.
Just got done pressing the shaft off the gear on the stock cam. Found a thumb screw that fits the end of the cam so I can turn it by hand when it's in the case. I'll put a dial indicator down from the lifter block mount to measure runout of the shaft when the new cam cover comes.
