I bought thesubject bike and rode it 200 miles yesterday home. It ran well while I was picking it up no smoke, noises, etc. On the road trip home the rear cylinder started smoking (blue/white) some when it was sitting still. Around 75 -100 miles before I stopped. It still ran strong, no missing, etc. It seem as the rear cylinder was getting hot, the exhaust pipe on the smoking cylinder comes out wraps around the cylinder under the seat and along the oil tank and pops out on the LH side below the side bag.My rear and legs were also getting warm from the heat put off by the pipe. Stopped gased and let it rest a while and same thing no smoke, etc forawhile as I cruised down the highway.No smoke that you can see as it runs along. Had a friend behind me and we swap places so I could watch it. Oiltemp was about 200, no sign of a leaky head, etc. I parked it in my driveway when I got it home and today no sign of oil as well.The tank seems to have the same amount of oil in it. Is it possible that the exhaust by being so close to the cylinder is making it over heat? The forks have on each side a chrome deflector along them that I feel is blocking air across the motor. Any suggestions or idea would be appreciated Thanks

[IMG]local://upfiles/41366/B549DAED6B884FF482AAEEA396D9E923.jpg[/IMG]

 

here is a good pic of the exhaust

[IMG]local://upfiles/41366/5C979352580C4BDF9E5BC2398212E364.jpg[/IMG]

 

pic of deflectors on front along forks

[IMG]local://upfiles/41366/C371ACBF55424F4C8EEC7245250B7116.jpg[/IMG]

 

A lot of times if the bike has set for a while, and the fact that shovels don't have the best valve guide seals, it was probably letting oil by-pass the seals until it really got hot and everything got sealed. It's just a thought. I would get rid of the wind deflectors.

 

he said that he hadn't ridden the bike since March when I went and picked it up and I should of said that it started smoking againwhenI took off again after I let it sit and cool a bit. Can you pull the heads without dropping the motor?

 

How much smoke? A bunch or just a little? Leaky valve seals are generally apparent on startup and starting off after sitting at a stop light, etc. with just a little smoke. It is not going to be because the pipe is near the cylinder.Rear cylinders run a little hotter, but not that much. Yeah, it gets warm, they all do that. Lose the wind deflectors until you at least know everything is working right. You want all the air you can get on the motor. You don't need to pull the whole motor to pull the head. Getting the head off that bike is only a couple hour job if you're not in a hurry. If you know what you're doing, I bet you could pull a rear head on a FLHT in an hour: Pull seat, raise up the gas tank, pull bag(s), rear exhaust, pushrods, what, 5 bolts holding the head on? It's been a while. Best tool you can get for that: A Snapon Chevy Truck Door Wrench. 3 minutes on the grinder to thin it slightly and it will spin those head bolts out like nothing you've seen. Otherwise, a curved 9/16" (I think, it's been 21 years since I last touched a shovelhead, THANK GOD) box end and a 3 lb hammer will do you fine.

Shovelheads are, err, issue-prone, but you probably have the best shovelhead they ever made, for what that is worth. But you don't know how many people have been into it in the last 24 years. Check your compression and the spark plugs. Plugs have oil on them? Too lean (white) or too fat (black)? You could have also had a stuck ring or any number of other things besides or in addition to a valve seal issue. If it's just a valve seal, I wouldn't worry too much about it. A shovelhead needs a top end on a regular basis, so do it at the next one.

You need to get the genuine H.D. shop manual for that specific bike. Suck it up and spend the money; it is worth every penny. The Clymers/whatever are nice to look at for a second opinion, but you must have the factory shop manual.

 

Seem to be the longer you rode it the more it smoked, but it didn't seem to be as bad on the 2nd stop as the 1st.Yeah I know I have heardshovelsneed some work and retighting now and then but I lovethe way a shovel sounds when it loping at idle. I feel the 1983 FLHTwas the king of the road in it's day. I hope to return it to it's glory again. I am going to compression check it tomorrow, check the seep down, hopefully the local HD shop will have the service manual.If you can pull the head without removing the bottom end from the bike can you get the jug off too? If you slide the connectingrod and piston down far enough and raise the jug to get the wristpin exposed?

 

Sounds more like a ring issue, but ya don't know at this point. Yeah, it all comes off pretty easy, really. It's fortunate, because with a shovelhead you have to. Sorry, couldn't help myself. Anyway, you may have to special order the manual as I doubt it will be in stock. I'm sure someone on here knows where to get them, and seems like I've seen them sold through the big aftermarket places, so you should be able to get one somewhere. Actually, most of the vibration related issues shovelheads are known for (stuff falling off) won't be a problem for you, as your bike is rubber mounted. As I said, it is probably the best shovelhead to own: New FLT frame for far superior handling, rubber mounted for better reliability, 5 speed, no AMF, not a 1979 model where the factory went "Gosh, I wonder how many motors will blow if we use this material for valve guides?", etc.

After the five bolts (if I recall) that hold the head to the jug are out and you lift the head off, then you undo the 4 cylinder base nuts and you can lift the jug off the block and piston. It is actually easier and more straightforward than an Evo, and I did that behind the motel coming back from Sturgis:


although I didn't pull the jug off.

When you eventually do a top end on it, do some research and see what state of the art is for a reliable shovelhead rebuild. Surely someone somewhere knows how to build one to keep going for 40K miles after 25 years of improvements in materials and manufacturing techniques. I would recommend an S&S Super shorty carb, Andrews A grind cam, genuine HD lifters, pistons, Hastings rings, HD or James gasket set, HD anything else. Stay away from aftermarket stuff besides what I mentioned.

 

thanks for the pic yes it don't look to bad, the guy I bought it from said he had put Wiseco dome top? pistons in it at thelast overhaul. which was about 18,000 ago according to him. It has an S&Scarb I saw that looking it over yesterdaydon't know if it's a shorty. Ihave copied all you mentioned as far as cam, gaskets etc I appreciate the help.

 

I'm gonna call him (old owner) tomorrow and let him know it made the trip.And drill him on what is in the top end, maybe I can get by with a hone and rings or at worst a bore and pistons. This winter I will tear it down more as I want to repaint it anyway.