I've been doing some research and found a shop in richmond, VA that has a 95" engine package. Looks pretty good. My question is how does it affect driveability? Anyone have the same type of setup?

Here's their info: 95" BIG BORE KIT

FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO WANT MORE POWER FROM YOUR TWIN CAM, WE HAVE A KIT THAT WE PUT TOGETHER OVER TIME & DYNO TESTING THAT PRODUCES CLOSE TO 100HP AND OVER 100 FT LBS OF TORQUE. THE PACKAGE IS VERY DEPENDABLE, WE HAVE DONE OVER A LOT OF THESE COMBINATIONS WITH EXTREMELY GOOD RESULTS.

*WE FIT 3&7/8 WEISCO PISTONS TO YOUR CYLINDERS MAKING IT 95"

*REPLACE THE CAMS WITH ONES THAT WE HAVE FOUND WORKS BEST FOR YOUR PARTICULAR SET UP (BIKE, TYPE OF RIDING, ETC). WE ARE ALWAYS CHANGING CAM PROFILES TRYING TO IMPROVE ON HP, TQ, STARTING, FUEL MILEAGE AND VALVE TRAIN NOISE.

*CHECK ALL CLEARANCES & REPLACE ALL NECESSARY SEALS AND BEARINGS.

*WE CHECK YOUR VALVE SPRINGS TENSION & REPLACE THEM IF NEED BE.

*MACHINE YOUR HEADS & INSTALL COMPRESSION RELEASES

*WE USE A NEW ADJUSTABLE IGNITION MODULE (DAYTONA TWIN-TEC) WITH A CUSTOM MAP THAT WE INSTALL IN THE MODULE. (CARB MODELS ONLY)

*YOU ALSO GET A 42MM MIKUNI THAT WE WILL DIAL IN ON THE DYNO. (CARB MODELS ONLY)

*TWIN CAM "A" MODELS GET AN S&S CRANK BEARING BREATHER VALVE.

*IF YOU HAVE A FUEL INJECTED BIKE WE INSTALL A USB POWER COMMANDER 3R AND BUILD A CUSTOM MAP TO CONTROL THE TIMING & THE FUEL DELIVERY. (FI MODELS ONLY)

*CLUTCH MODIFICATIONS SO IT WILL HANDLE THE EXTRA HORSEPOWER

Cost is about $2400

http://www.prostreetcycles.net/pages/4/index.htm

 

I should know next week mines just done and awaiting a dyno breakin/tune [8D]

 

Zimm,

Too many ways to get to 100/100 and different "recipes" have different characteristics. Suggest you think about your riding style: at what RPM do you most often ride; do you generally stay above 2500, regularly shift at 4000 and often run it through the gears; or do you mostly cruise, like strong torque on hand for passing w/o downshifting; etc. Then - what bike is it going into? A "light weight" dyna, or something heavier? Once you honestly look at how you will really ride the bike you'll be able to identify where you want the power and when you'll want the cam to come on. Then figure out what you're willing to live with.

Are you okay with a build that requires premium and the use of compression releases, or do you live in/will you be touring parts of the country where crummy gas is the norm? Will a lot of valve train noise bother you, or are you okay with it? Are gentle "street manners" important, or can you live with a little cantankerousness? Also - are you okay with a little more maintenance, or do you not want to have to do much extra?

Lots of ways to get to 100/100 in a 95". Best you figure out the power band you want and characteristics you can live with. Talk to epople with some of the different builds you might be intersted in - and don't be too quick to believe all the BS you'll hear and see on line. Read care fuuly, you'lll see who knows what they're talking about. Good luck.

 

Sweet! that's how rode mine home 50 miles from the dealer Saturday after a dyno break in and I love it.
105/109 with Rinehart true duals.
Comes on about the same as the stock camed,headed 95" flatop engine I had till about 3200rpm then comes on like a bad dog.
Smooth power off idle to where the power really comes on.
The 570 cams have a noticable lope at idle but not obnoxious and smooth out right away when on the throttle.
Overall I'm very pleased.
I made a little more power with a modified stock header and the old Hooker slip ons but I like the look and sound of the Rineharts better and doubt the difference could be felt seat of the pants so to speak.

 

Y2K
What set up are you using? I am looking to add that kind of power to my SG.

 

SE cast 10.25 95" pistons,Baisley Super Stock heads,S&S 570 gear drive cams,Stock B lifters with perfect fit pushrods.
Stock B oil pump with baisley spring,Dyna PC programable ignition,Mikuni HSR42 carb with SE breather and Rinehart true dual exhaust.

 

One thing to look at is how the power is coming on late in the rpm. What if you could have 100 tq at 2100 RPM?? When we do builds we get the tq to come on sooner than later. What you get is a much faster bike. Dan does some great head work , if a cam with a sooner closing piont had beenused you would see a faster building tq curve. Not that it is a bad build just a late building package. A set up that builds tq faster is a better way to go. There are ways to do it without high compression as well. It you look at passing power most are not at 3200 at normal hwy speeds more like 2800 , but if you where all ready in the fat tq curve. the bike would pull that much harder with out a gear drop or having to wait unitl it gets to 3000+


Here is a very low budget build, stock pushods 9.7 compression stock head pipes slip ons and a stock T/B. Take any two bikes side by side and the one that is making the tq sooner wil pull harder. One thing we look for is how fast the engine will rev. Our packages are in the 1.5 second range faster on a dyno pull them just about all other out there. That translates to a much faster , harder pulling bike.


We just did a 98 inch kit with a 570 cam Here is the dyno sheet look at the tq curve how fast it takes off. Hp wise about the same but we use smaller valves to get velocity up fast. This is in a bagger is is just flat out fun to ride. Runs on pump gas and pulls very hard down low and should have JOHN DEERE on the side instead of HD. It really is a tractor. This customer pulls a trailer and could not be happier.

I do not want you to think I am bashing your build I am not the fuel curve does need work as you can see the slump in the tq curve mirros the fuel curve richness. The pipe is causing some of that but with some work you could get the tq up more in that area. Some times you really have to work at the pipe thing messing with the baffle, on that pipe will be of some help.

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HMMM it did not stick I hope this works


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To be fair to my builder his first choice of cams was the Woods TW-6HG but I was looking to cut costs somewhere as this was getting over my budget so we opted for the S&S 570G kit instead.
I really don't mind the power coming on a little late as I'm a bit of a hot rodder at heart lol.
Is the dyno sheet you posted a carbed or FI bike? and do you think it would make any difference?
I'm running a Mikuni HSR42 do you think there would be any advantage in a different carb like a SE CV44 or Mikuni 45?
I plan on adding a baker DD6 trans as my next investement but haven't ruled out a cam and carb change after I recover financialy from this latest round

I think I may have it back on the dyno and request Mike (my builder) do the tuning, I noticed that they had another tech do the dynotune/breakin and I wonder if Mike might not have done a better job of tuning it.

 

The cam is not causing a issue with the tq dip the rich afr is that same area is most of the issue and the pipe. But again a good tuner can get most of that out. Really I am suprised as I know the Latus guys and that AFR curve is not like them really. I know them through Dan B. I have had a few customers take there bikes there with our kits and they have done a great job everytime. But a 42 should work fine for you. Yes both of those where efi not that it matters really. I have bunches of 98 dyno sheets from mild like the 37g I posted to our own 615/585 cam that will make a soild 110/110 in a 95 add a 98 to the mix and 120/120 with our cast heads and a proper sized t/b or carb is a walk in the park. That is at 10.6 compression with our cam and the design it is such a gentle ramp and the larger lift on the intake it will start with out comp release's the heads are drilled and come with them but Unless you have it out of tune, or extremely hot we rarely see any kick back.