fxrider I guess you are using a different book than we use. We have no such problems with them. Depending what you are running as a cam will determine what HP & TQ # you are getting. Those #'s mean little in the real world of motorcycling. Dyno's from one to another have a big gap in the truth. When you put them (pair of bikes) on the same Dyno, doing nothing to the bike and looking at the sheet, they almost never produce the same results as what some builders claim. I GUESS WE HAVE BAD AIR DOWN HERE.

What I am trying to say, unless you are building a Dyno riding purpose built bike, you should look for reliability, ease of use, and an enjoyable bike that gets decent gas milage. The S&S's we build seam to have 0 failure rate and you can make them stupid HP to very nice road machines. As far as $5K, I guess you paid about 40% too much. A nice motor gets around 105~110 HP & 115 Tq. These numbers can be had in Key West to New Jersey on pump gas. Do not be too overly concerned about getting 2 or 3 more HP than the next guy, love how the bike rides mile after mile!

+1 for the 106 S&S but than again I have a 124 S&S in my bagger.

I just seen the sheet above my post. Let me make myself clear, in no way I am referring to him. I was on the phone and this post was composed in word due to my crappy grammar and spelling. I had this post open, I made this post partially up prior to 5 pm, than finished it a few hours later, and I copied and pasted.

 

I am referring to the new S&S kit with Cylinders & Pistons

 

Fastharley that dyno sheet above your post is a real dyno sheet. not some made up #. that bike was tuned by dave at JD's cycleworks in pa. there was some other things done also i do not know the specifics but you build harleys so you can figure it out.
Dave has an honest Duno and it is what it is , NC turbos is very pleased with the out come of the bike and it is a good solid dependable ride. revs fast and runs cool also.hahahhaha

 

Do yourself a favor and re-read my post. In a chat site is is very important to read the post.

 

read your post 3 times not bashing ya . but i also know how things can get out of hand really quick. a lot of people think dyno sheets are the standard this build got this he got that like i said you build harleys and you know there is more to it then just bolting things together. some parts will work some will not.
S&S makes some good kits but some times they need a little help.

 

I just seen the sheet above my post. Let me make myself clear, in no way I am referring to him. I was on the phone and this post was composed in word due to my crappy grammar and spelling. I had this post open, I made this post partially up prior to 5 pm, than finished it a few hours later, and I copied and pasted.

This mean that the above post from fxrider written/posted at 01:51 PM was the last post. No others. My post was to respond to that one written/posted at 01:51 PM . There was no other posts. wurk_truk at 03:11 PM, fxrider at 03:36 PM, and NCTURBOS at 05:10 PM had not posted yet. Please look at my posting time and the immediate edit and reason at the bottom and the aforementioned explanation.

I have a computer in the shop right next to a lift. I post when I can get around to it and in this case the post was started around 3pm and copied & pasted the completed post from word into the HDF browser open window (that was open since around 3pm) at 7pm. Right after the post the window updated/refreshed and the new posts including NCTURBOS showed up and I realized the ramifications and the way of others could construe it.

 

My own S&S is up and running right now. Have done the heat cycles; and started the break-in miles.

I am going to the Hills of SE Ohio for the break-in right now.

I have NEVER wrenched on a bike. The S&S BB 07 up kit seemed like a nice upgrade to me. By this time next year... I WILL have 25k on the build and can then give a solid review of the S&S kit. But for now, I give the kit AND S&S my endorsement.

I installed Andrews 54 cams, had the heads ported by Big Boyz, and added a Fatcat.

SHOULD turn out to be a very fun and dependable bike.

(I have COMPLETELY addressed the bottom end by having R&R make a crankshaft for me, and had Hyperformance do a Timken lefty with a SE lefty on the right side.)

 

I know of a couple of the S&S 106's running around and they seems to be fine. The noise, hard starting, etc is either in the tune or in the build, such as the quench not being set right. That being said, I think the S&S is overkill. Bore your stock cylinders to 103 or 107, go with a goood set of pistons and cams and some good head work. I always recommend compression releases, even for the minimal 10:1 builds as they are just good insurance if you get into reall high ambient temps, poor fuel or a marginal tune. They really save on starter stress. There are a lot of reputable builders out there, but my preference is Head Quarters, as you can get a fully engineered kit that all components are specifically designed to work well together.

 

Street price on the S&S BB kit was $650 for me. I don't really thinks that's bad even compared to boring your own...Came with .040 MLS head gaskets. With my .003 proud deck height... .037 quench. My head porter said .027 be too tight of a quench ona bagger (carbon).

With a 107, I did NOT like everybodys' 'proprietary' piston BS. Besides for S&S... in THIS economy ANYBODY can go outta business and then... where do the rings, etc. come from when needed 5 years from now?

HHHHMMMMMM...... Is what I thought, when making this purchasing decision.

I did CRs for the reason you stated, Dalton. Just the build in my sig is such a HUGE difference... wonder what a 120 is like to ride? HAHA!!!

 

Actually you will find that even though many builders have proprietary pistons, that if you go with a piston of the right diameter and the right cc dome, they will work, maybe a bit differeently than the proprietary, but will work nonethe less. I do not beleive going with proprietary pistons is a bad thing as each builder has decided that through experience, a certain skirt design or length, etc works best with the rest of the components that they recommend.

BTW, the 120 is a blast to ride. It is the difference that is comparable to driving a 68 Z-28 and jumping into a 69 L88 427 Camaro. Raw, tire smoking, stump pulling torque. I have a knot on the back of my head from the wife smacking me due to the front tire being in the air on the first to second short shifts.