|
Help choosing cams
Dear Abby,
I have a 2000 Ultra Classic with just under 70,000 miles. I recently started started noticing some cam chain noises. I did a little research and recognize that I am way overdue for tensioners and am in fact rolling the dice on the old ones. The top end was rebuilt a few years ago. We did a .30 overbore, Keith Black 10.5:1 pistons, modest valve work, and a fuel injection programmer.The bike has the Magnelli injection, Samson true duals with long fishtails and 10" baffles. Here is my questions: 1. While doing the tensioners, should I also replace my chains? 2. Will I see enough true horsepower gain to make a cam upgrade a good choice at the same time? 3. If the answer to no. 2 is yes, what cams would be the best choice for overall performance, given the description of my motor. 4. Are gear drive setups, instead of chains truly advantageous enough to justify the price of the conversion, and if so what recommendations/ warnings do you have? 5. Is anyone aware of a website or source of general cam knowledge out there to help me pick? (I have spoken with three different independants and each one has a different opinion). Any help would be much appreciated. Sorry if this has already been posted, never used the tech side of the site before. |
I've got 80,000 on my 02 dyna,for the way I ride,I'm staying close to stock,like an andrews 26.I'm going to extra to change over to gear drive because I plan to keep the bike,and Will be worth it to me,to have the more consistent cam timing,and never have to worry about tensioners again.From what I've read,the chains were another compromise by the moco,as everything is by every moco,to meet engine noise requirements in this case.
you'll probably get a different opinion from everyone on this issue,just need to do the research and make up your own mind based on your own circumstances and plans for the bike. |
There is a youtube video that has some good info for pros and cons of gear drive and chain drive. I'd definitely seach for gear drive cams and its the video by revolutionperform. I just rebuilt my 08 train engine and I went with chain drive. Def worth doing your homework, gear drive kits are expensive as I'm sure you have realized. Dan is right though, you will get different opinions from everyone on this topic. The downside to chain drive is there is a limit to the lift on the cam. I put in the S&S 583 but the way my engine is set up I could put in up to .700 rise cams (which I won't) but next year I may go to gear drive, just ran out of money. Good luck!
|
Originally Posted by binkley2
(Post 6537482)
Dear Abby,
I have a 2000 Ultra Classic with just under 70,000 miles. I recently started started noticing some cam chain noises. I did a little research and recognize that I am way overdue for tensioners and am in fact rolling the dice on the old ones. The top end was rebuilt a few years ago. We did a .30 overbore, Keith Black 10.5:1 pistons, modest valve work, and a fuel injection programmer.The bike has the Magnelli injection, Samson true duals with long fishtails and 10" baffles. Here is my questions: 1. While doing the tensioners, should I also replace my chains? 2. Will I see enough true horsepower gain to make a cam upgrade a good choice at the same time? 3. If the answer to no. 2 is yes, what cams would be the best choice for overall performance, given the description of my motor. 4. Are gear drive setups, instead of chains truly advantageous enough to justify the price of the conversion, and if so what recommendations/ warnings do you have? 5. Is anyone aware of a website or source of general cam knowledge out there to help me pick? (I have spoken with three different independants and each one has a different opinion). Any help would be much appreciated. Sorry if this has already been posted, never used the tech side of the site before. You will notice a BIG increase.;) Scott |
IMO if you are going in there anyway change the cams. That is the biggest bang for your buck you are going to get.
|
For the gear-drive cams to work your crankshaft has to meet a tight spec for concentric running, which not all do, so you may not be able to use them. You can only check that when you start work! The later spec hydraulic tensioners don't have that limitation and is the way I intend going with my 03, they seem to be a good compromise and solve the problem. As for cams, Hillside gives great advice on HDF!:icon_mrgreen:
|
I highly recommend the woods tw6 cams. Just helped put a set in a bike with 60,000 on the clock and it came back from dyno with 96 ft lbs of tq and 85 hp. At the same time we upgraded to the SE cam plate and oil pump with gear drive. If you contact Bob Wood he can get you the cam plate and the cams and gear drive. Highly recommended his cams for a touring bike.
On a side note I have a 2000 as well, i got rid of the M&M fuel injection and went carbureted. 42 mikuni. No trips to the dyno. just jet it and forget it! |
Quote: SethLee11 The downside to chain drive is there is a limit to the lift on the cam. Also there can be a variance in the timing, which you dont get with GEARS!!! Gears remain constant and dead on once set, no more timing issues!
|
Originally Posted by hpfatboy
(Post 6546017)
Quote: SethLee11 The downside to chain drive is there is a limit to the lift on the cam. Also there can be a variance in the timing, which you dont get with GEARS!!! Gears remain constant and dead on once set, no more timing issues!
|
Thanks for all the advice. I get the message loud and clear. Will be doing cams next week! I finallyhave narrowed my choice down to S&S, either their 510 or 520. The 510 as my motor is built, is suggesting a 10hp increase and 12 footpound of torque. I would say that is well worth the money. If anyone has anything bad to say about either of these grinds, please let me know.
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:46 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands