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Just ordered Axtell 107 kit!

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Old 07-28-2010, 07:48 AM
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Default Just ordered Axtell 107 kit!

I have ordered an Axtell 107 kit!!!

It comes with just about everything, but I am going to need an exhaust system. They said the Springer head pipe and SE mufflers won't cut it. They had suggested a set from Cycle Shack, I checked them out and didn't see anything I liked there... I prefer the pipes on each side, but from what I understand that isn't gonna be too good either, though I was checking out the true dual sets that a few companies are offering... Any opinions on true dual VS. 2 into 2 on one side, or 2 into 1 on one side? I knid of like the D&D Fat Cat... The bike is the one in my sig line, and it always has the bags on, so they have to go past that.
 
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:48 AM
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D&D Fatcat is on my very short list.

And I have the Axtell 107 from NRHS. One thing I did ask them to do ,and they did for 50.00, was to fit the piston and rings and one pin into each cilender. Cause I don't do that everyday and that is one of the most important things need doing right.

Am very pleased with that setup.
 

Last edited by Old Gunny; 07-28-2010 at 08:52 AM.
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dwyleecoyote
I have ordered an Axtell 107 kit!!!

It comes with just about everything, but I am going to need an exhaust system. They said the Springer head pipe and SE mufflers won't cut it. They had suggested a set from Cycle Shack, I checked them out and didn't see anything I liked there... I prefer the pipes on each side, but from what I understand that isn't gonna be too good either, though I was checking out the true dual sets that a few companies are offering... Any opinions on true dual VS. 2 into 2 on one side, or 2 into 1 on one side? I knid of like the D&D Fat Cat... The bike is the one in my sig line, and it always has the bags on, so they have to go past that.
I run an Axtell 107" in an '02 FLHT and also prefer the balanced look of pipes on each side. As far as true duals go, after doing my research, I chose the Rineharts. Three step head pipes instead of two as most are and large mufflers. Sound good, not too loud and the bike runs good; no numbers yet but the butt dyno says she runs good.

If I was going to go the 2:1 route, I would go with the Thunderheader.
 
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:49 PM
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Nice! let us know how it goes... Im going to be doing the same here soon too. Did you decide on a cam, im thinking about using either the woods 9b or 9f. Go with a mikuni 45 and fatcat! At least thats what ill be using. Have you decided on what ignition....what are all the details going to be?
Also I disagree with the thunderheader. Those became extremely popular with hot evos and 95" motors, definitely better choices for these larger motors.
 
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:12 PM
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The kit includes a Mikuni 45. The cam I believe will be an andrews 570? I have so many notes on this I will have to verify what we finally went with. The ignition will be a DTT. They said my SE programmable wasn't the best way to go, so out with the old, in with the new. Several different folks advised to use the DTT, not just Axtell. I like the fat cat because it doesn't look too racy, and the cost isn't too bad either.
 
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:57 AM
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Take a look at the Supertrapp Supermegs since you're still looking around. Very tuner friendly.
 
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Old 07-30-2010, 10:01 AM
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I did finally settle on the D&D Fat Cat with Big Boar Quiet baffle. Bottom end will go out to Dark Horse next week for Timken conversion, and will come back accompanied by the new crank. Getting more excited about this everyday!
 
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Old 07-30-2010, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by dwyleecoyote
I did finally settle on the D&D Fat Cat with Big Boar Quiet baffle. Bottom end will go out to Dark Horse next week for Timken conversion, and will come back accompanied by the new crank. Getting more excited about this everyday!
Assume DH will be case boring also for the larger cylinder spigots? They will replace the stock thru bolt between the cylinders with a triangular shaped fastener because the pistons get so close together at that point that there would be contact with the OEM fastener. It is important that your mechanic, and you, understand that that bolt cannot be rotated from it's original position. There should be a notice included with your lower unit to that effect.
 
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Old 07-30-2010, 11:30 AM
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Thanks, I will ask. At first he was going to do the case bore in house, but that may have changed since DH will have the case already. I have heard this mentioned before, but I did not know what it meant.
 
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Old 07-30-2010, 01:17 PM
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The case bore to accomodate the larger cylinder spigots will remove the groove for the base o-ring and a base gasket may be required depending on how your deck height works out. JMHO but I would pay Hoban aka Darkhorse for that machining.

Your mechanic should plan on mocking the top end up to check deck height; you want it as close to 0.00" as possible and this may require no base gasket; a .010" or even .020" base gasket. Once deck height is set, then it's time to bolt on the heads with a .030" head gasket and check the squish band, shoot for .030"-.035". Once you have squish set, mock up again and check valve to piston clearance. Your mechanic should know all this already but if he doesn't you should insist on mock up, measurement and recording of all clearances.

Select a cam before you send the heads out for machine work; the cam will dictate the required machine work on the heads.
 


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