Realized I was probably hijacking someone else's thread in the Dyna Forum (apologies) so decided to start this separately, and this seemed like the right thread.

First disclaimer/alibi: newb. 'nuf said?

I have a SE 103 Stage IV kit installed in my '10 Fat Bob. It's the stock kit from the SE '11 catalog (part# 27516-08B, parts breakout below), including the SE260 cams. Numbers are 104tq/109hp (dyno sheet). Those numbers seem in line with what the catalog projected, but seem low compared to what I'm seeing/hearing on here in some of the other threads. More important to me, as far as the ride goes, the power seems to come in late. I can start to feel it around 2800, and definitely feel it at 3500, although I was really hoping to feel it earlier in the ride (low-mid 2K?). Honestly, it feels kind of sluggish in the low end.

I believe the bike is tuned correctly - again, it's in line with what the advertised HD numbers are for that build, so I'm thinking that I chose the wrong set up for how I want to ride. Given that, it's been suggested that I try a Woods TW8-6 with my current set up.

Does anyone have a dyno of a 103 Stage IV with a TW8-6, or does anyone have personal experience with a setup similar to mine? Can anyone comment on how that cam runs? Any other cam options for my build (again, SE 103 Stage IV kit straight out of the HD SE catalog) that won't require a lot of additional work? I'm not a mechanic, so this isn't something I'll be doing myself, and I'm at my limit for putting dollars into it.

I'm looking to feel that pull earlier in the RPMs, and maybe have it last a little longer - the SE 260 just doesn't give me what I'm looking for.

I've already put money into it, and I would like to avoid putting a lot more $ into it (I'm willing to put a little more to get what I want). I'm hoping that changing out the cam will put it in the arena for what I want.

Info from SE catalog on their 103 Stage IV kit:
Screamin’ Eagle® Performance 110+ Heads - 2.120" diameter intake valves (has ACR)
high-compression forged aluminum 10.5:1 pistons matched to the 110+ heads
SE260 cam
Perfect-Fit Pushrods
58mm EFI throttle body
3-7/8" diameter highlighted cylinders
Super Tuner
SD Heavy Breather A/I (not part of kit)
Bassani Road Rage 2->1 Exhaust (not part of kit)

Appreciate any/all comments, advice, feedback and tips!
Dano

 

I have heard of the 400 Wood used with a reported 120 on this forum, I have heard the T-Man 625 being used on this forum(around 110?), I am using the DME 575L in mine. I had the SE 251's in my Stage IV and thought they came on a little late. I don't have a whole lot of faith in Dyno numbers being used as a comparison to other bikes, there are to many variables involved. I like my cams and my bike gets good mileage 43-47mpg, runs damn good and most important is fun as hell to ride.

 

I went with the 251's for mid to top power. Next time I get to do it again going with torque cam. do alot of two up riding. Too bad they did not explain the 260 cam to ya before the build. good luck alot of old info on here about cams!

 

I put the T-Man 662-1's in mine...
According to the website 100+ ft lbs TQ between 2250 and 2500 rpms with a comparable setup... haven't had mine dyno'd yet though...

 

Interested in your feedback once it's final - thanks for the note!

 

Yeah itll be a couple weeks before the dyno numbers are in. Finshing up some odds and ends on it right now, getting an initial tune on it. then its a nice and easy 500mi or so break in, so id say in probably 2 weeks ill have some numbers.i should be able to get her back in and set up by then. Sorry that probably dosent help you. But once it is completely done ill be posting a full build up with numbers and dyno sheet.

 

Greybeard...unfortunately you were probably looking for something along the Stage 2 kit. You're going to need new pushrods and more than likely valve springs when you change camshafts to something that will put power in the lower rpm's. Essentially, you'll have about the same amount of labor in the fix as you did doing the Stage 4. My recommendation is to try running in a lower gear than normal in town to keep the rpm's up and downshift to pass. You've got a fun engine upgrade, but it is definitely not made to run at lower rpm's.

 

You're probably right - and I'm not sure I really want to sink that much more money into it. In and of itself, you're also right in that it is a fun upgrade! There are times when it will set me back in my seat! I just need to figure out how to best run the engine to take advantage of the power that it does have to offer - I find myself now running casually around the 3000 rpm range, that way if/when I need to quickly accelerate, I'm sitting at the low end of the power band. And there is power in the lower rpm's as well. It will pull and accelerate an incline, it just doesn't do it as quickly as I'd expected.

I may end up doing nothing more to it - but I wanted to get the opinion(s) of folks more experienced than myself to make a more informed decision if I decided to do so. Thanks for the feedback!

 

Thanks man - I'll stay tuned.

 

At 10.5 cr, you really don't have enough to optimize the compression for a Wood 8, unless you pull the heads and have them surfaced/cc'd, but the compression is in line for the install of something as simple as a Wood 555 cam, that bike will take on a completely different posture.
Hit hard off the bottom, and with the cylinder head air flow of that 110" head(approx 158-160 cfm @ .600 lift) it'll pull till 5500 plus.
Just did this same job for a client in the Toronto metro area recently, except he had flat-top pistons, Rinehart duals, 50mm S/E t/body.
Headwork, and Wood 555's, and tuned correctly had him smileing, after he had been to 3 other outfits to correct it.
It was a very sluggish combo, but final dyno reports were 107/115, SAE, with it hitting very early in the rpm band.
Scott