Not always. There ARE two distinct ways to break in a V-Twin. The S&S method... that is slow and easy, or the mototune method, which is ride it like you stole it. I recommend the S&S method (as learned from Scotty), but MOTOTUNE works for a LOT of folks. In the end... its ALL about ring seal. On an aircraft engine, one can go full bore and always be loading the ring packs, it's harder to do that on a road vehicle. I, myself have tried both. Using the S&S method, which gradually heat cycles the rings into place using like 10+ heat cycles... I have had GREAT luck. One time, on a 107, I tried the mototune method and that engine ended up using 1 qt per 5k miles. I was NOT happy, I obviously did it wrong, and I have since went back to the S&S method.

 

Startup and heat cycle for a minute looking for leaks and listening for weird noises; let cool to touch. 3 or 4 more heat cycles of 1 to 2 minutes letting engine cool to touch after each; then ride. Keep engine under 3000-3200 rpms for the first 100 miles; lots of 3d and 4th gear pulls to rpm limit and decel to load and unload the rings. The rings should seat in the first 50 miles. Dump oil at 100 miles and ride keeping rpms less than 3500 for the next 400 mile. At 500 miles dump oil and filter and ride another 500 miles dump oil and filter, change to different oil if changing from break in oil and tune. Works for me.

 

Right, the aircraft engine manufacturers talk about keeping up high power settings so there is a lot of pressure behind the rings to force them against the cylinder walls and that is what breaks the engine in. Some owners have tried to baby their newly overhauled engines and the cylinders glazed. I just thought it was interesting comparing the two. I plan on taking the Moco's direction when it comes time for my H-D break-in. But, I would take Continental's, Lycoming's or P&W's direction for airplane engines.

 

Well, the weather cooperated a little this week and I was finally able to get the bike out an run it a little...and WOW even keeping it within break-in rpms, this thing is quick! I know I can only compare it to my old 06 Deuce which had a big bore kit on it, but this is much more reponsive and handles great. I can't wait to actually open it up and see what it can really do.

 

NOT SURE IF I'M POSTING THIS IN THE RIGHT SPOT BUT HERE IS MY QUESTION.

I HAVE A 2012 STREET GLIDE WITH THE 103CI. I WOULD LIKE TO STAY WITH THE 103CI AND JUST DO THE TOP END MODS. I HAVE READ A TON ABOUT THE SE STAGE 4 KIT AND HAVE HEARD GREAT THINGS.

92500011 - STREET PERMANCE STAGE 4 KIT BELOW IS 103HP - 110TQ

AND THE SE PRO PERFORMANCE STAGE 4 KIT OUT OF THE SE CATALOG IS RATED AT 110HP - 115TQ

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE? ARE THEY NOT THE SAME SETUP??

Screamin' Eagle® Street Performance Stage 4 Kit - 103 Cubic Inches



This Street Performance kit provides the maximum horsepower output for a legal 103 kit that will maintain the factory warranty. This kit includes SE CNC Ported Factory Cylinder heads, 58mm ETC throttle body, SE-259E cams, 10.5 to 1 compression pistons, Perfect-Fit pushrods, SE clutch spring, and all required engine gaskets. This Street Performance kit produces 103 hp and 110 ft-lbs of torque. All EFI-equipped models require ECM calibration* (priced separately). *Recalibration is required for proper installation, and will allow engine to rev to 6200 RPM. See Dealer for details. Labor cost is not included. $1849.00


Twin Cam 103CI Stock vs. 103CI Stage 4 Kit Performance Chart
92500011

screamin’ eagle

® Pro stage iV Kit –
103 cuBic inches

3

If you’re looking to build a fast, track-ready 103 and want to
buy all the components you need to maximize the results,
this kit eliminates the guess work. Kit includes CnC-Ported
Factory Cylinder Heads with high performance valve springs,
matching high-compression forged aluminum 10.5:1 pistons,
Se-259e cams for higher lift for a given duration, Perfect-
Fit Pushrods to accommodate the higher cam lift and a
58mm throttle body with High Flow Injectors to feed the
beast. Kits for twin Cam 96™ models include Big Bore cylinders,
and twin Cam 103 kit uses the Original equipment
103 cylinders. the kit also includes high-performance
clutch spring and sprocket retention hardware to put the
power to the ground, and the “must have” Super tuner to
provide the right tuning capabilities. Kit includes gaskets.

for race application only.
92500010

Fits ’12 Dyna

27516-08D

Fits ’07-later Dyna, ’07-later Softail and ’07 touring
models equipped with a twin Cam 96 engine.
not compatible with cruise control.

27517-08D

Fits ’08-’11 touring models equipped with a

twin Cam 96 engine.

 

I rode my bike how I ride my bike for breaking it in. Modern motors are broken in, like others have said, in the first few starts/runs.

Rings don't take long to sit.

 

On the 92500011 there is no sepst tuner included, you are supposed to use a download from SE and then the bike maintains it's 49 state legal status and full factory warranty. The pro version, 92500010, includes a sepst tuner so you can get more power due to the tuner's flexibility but your motor's warranty is history. The pro kit seems to be priced at 2199 now as the cylinders are not included, the higher 2399 price seems to be a misprint from back when the cylinders were still included in the kit. The only difference I see is the inclusion of the sepst tuner with the pro kit.