Thinking cam change this winter. Will probably end up doing the full 103 conversion down the road in a year or so. Anyone have 254e cams in their dyna? What do you think of them? What Fuel Management system are you using since the upgrade and how happy are you with the changes?

Also is a cam change in the realm of a fairly mechanical non-mechanic? I did manage to remove wheels and full fuel tank last winter to do some necessary work. And I did get it all back together just fine with no problems this season. Is a cam change something I can do myself or is it better left to actual mechanics due to skill or special tools necessary?

Thanks,


USMAMule

 

With a decent set of hand tools and, or course, the correct service manual, a cam change is a good place to start getting familiar with the inner workings of your bike. Since you are going in to the cam chest, might as well change the inner cam bearings to a set of Torrington B168s or the Timken or Nachi equivalent; they are also available from the dealer. You will need a blind hole puller to remove the bearings and the one that AutoZone rents out has worked for many. You can use an old cam shaft to install the new bearings. Freeze them overnight, apply a little assembly lube to the bearing boss and the bearing and they will bump right in; install letters/numbers facing out.

As for cams, the 254E is not such a good choice for a 96er; better in a 103 but there are yet better choices in either configuration. If stuck on H-D cams, the SE204 would work well in both configurations and the Andrews 48H will also.

As for fuel management, TTS Mastertune is about the best of today's offerings but talk to you local tuner and see what he recommends. You will need a tune; don't opt for a map or download as it is a half measure compared to a dyno tune. Good luck!

 

I agree with the master tune, but if you dont have much experience get some special tools for removing and installing your cam bearings. check out georges garage. Your cam choice should depend on your comp. and headwork. I built a 100 hp 103 in my garage with a little tool money and a go to guy for advice. If I was doing a cam only project, which is a shitload easier, Iwould probably go with the R&R 525. it has good numbers but would be best with some back pressure, but not 2 much.
Dive in

 

Ok.. SO a statement and a couple questions. I came up with SE254e's after asking the Dyno guy at my dealer and I told him that I am planning on going to a 103 in the future - maybe during next winter. SO maybe that's why he suggested 254e's. So since you are saying you think the 204's would be a better choice. Please let me know hwy? What is the difference?

I am looking to increase HP and torque across the gears. I am a commuter not a tourer. As much as I'd like to take a few multi-day trips during the riding season, the reality is I rarely have that kind of time to be able to get away from it all. SO I commute and enjoy my 160 mile a day round trips to the tune of about 10K+ miles a year. SO what I am looking for is some off the line grunt for sure, but I don't want all the torque in the lower RPM's. I travel a lot of two lane 45 and 50 MPH limit roads and need to be able to get around tractor trailers, cages and farm equipment quickly form 50 MPH when I get a chance.

So now that you have a better idea how I ride, is the 204 still a better option in your opinion?

Also yeah the cam bearings would seem to make sense to do at the same time...but what do you mean by freezing them over night? Sorry if that's a dumb question - but like I said I am mechanical but not a mechanic.

Oh and I'm not so much stuck on HD parts - as I am in warranty. :-)

Thanks in advance for taking the time to read all this.

USMAMule

 

There are several differences but the important ones are intake close, lift and duration. Google SE Performance Catalog 2012 and download the .pdf. Go the cam section and you can see the differnce in the two profiles. You may like the 254E but it will come on much later than the 204. I have run the 204 in a 95" softtail in the Texas hill coutry and have never had any problems passing any thing, anytime or anywhere; engine made 104TQ/93HP. If you are looking more for horsepower and upper range performance, the 254E might be just the ticket. However, fi you are looking for strong mid to upper range performance, the 204 might be a better choice; your call. When th dyno guy at the dealer starts recommending cams, ask him what he runs in his and ask to see dyno sheets or to talk to customers that are running the recommended cams.

Yes, it is.

Freeze as in put them in the freezer overnight. The will "shrink" a bit and fit in the bearing bosses easier.

 

I've got a 98 softail with the, SEH-57(part#25754-97= andrews makes these cams just for Harley) ,Torrington cam bearing, 10 1/2 KB 30 over pistons, Mikuni HSR 42 carb,Mikuni mani, Crane HI-4 ign.,roller rockers, valve and spring kit manley good for 650" lift cam (the SE257 only has a 574 lift) had a sardi valve job he cut down valve guides etc. put in a S&S breather reed valve, adjustable pushrods,new lifters, I like it, alot more HP. I got everything on ebay ahead of time,( even the valve job I bid on + sent them in.) and saved a hell of alot, all new stuff. Except for the cam that you get from H.D. dealer and even that was cheaper by over 50 bucks on ebay from a dealer. I did buy a set of used 98 heads on ebay for less then a 100 bucks that way I sent them in and they were ready to go when I tore it down. Make sure you spend the extra $ aand get multi layer head gaskets, I went with the James gaskets(thats what I've alway used on my PanHead) and right at 1,300 miles I blew the rear head gasket. Put in the multi layers cosmet and its been great. Good luck hope this helps,Dave