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Removing baffles from new Screamin Eagle Slip-Ons

  #11  
Old 01-04-2007, 08:37 AM
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Default RE: Removing baffles from new Screamin Eagle Slip-Ons

gundog, just wondern werethe chrome guards in front of your saddlebags came from? look sharp...
 
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Old 01-04-2007, 09:46 AM
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Default RE: Removing baffles from new Screamin Eagle Slip-Ons

Thanks bturner484. I ordered them on line from Hales Harley Davidson.(http://www.haleshd.com/)Chrome) Rear Saddlebag Guard, 49261-00. 20% off list and the service is great. If you have a FLSTC, you'll also need the Saddlebag Bracket Relocation Kit, 90238-00. If you have a 2007 model and you decide to order the saddle bag guard, PM me because there is something you need to know.
 
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Old 01-06-2007, 09:58 AM
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Default RE: Removing baffles from new Screamin Eagle Slip-Ons

Took mine off last night and opened up "drilled" out the two slits in the flee flowing part of the baffle. Once it dries up here today I will see if it made a difference.
 
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Old 01-11-2007, 11:29 AM
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Default RE: Removing baffles from new Screamin Eagle Slip-Ons

zmeister

Any more discription on how to get the baffles out? I tried last night with no luck. I used a large wooden handle, and it keep getting jammed. It also started to bend the agled piece inside the baffle. Also, do you happen to have a sound clip after removing the fiberglass? I'm trying to decide if this is worth the elbow grease.

Thanks
 
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Old 01-11-2007, 09:22 PM
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Default RE: Removing baffles from new Screamin Eagle Slip-Ons

After taking out the torx screws, I took a piece of steel that was just barely smaller than the opening where they slip on the head pipe and pushed it in until it contacted the sloping part of the baffle. Basically it was a piece of bar stock that was around 1 3/4" in diameter and about a foot long. (I am a machinist, so the bar stock was easily found.) Then I turned the muffler upright so that the piece of bar stock was towards the ground and basically pounded it repeatedly against a piece of 4x4 that was sitting on the floor. No finesse involved here. It took a good bit of force to get the baffle to move. After it moves about 3/4" - 1" it will free up and you can pull it out by hand. The fiberglass packing and screen were stuck to the inside wall of the muffles and I used a long flat head screwdriver to wedge between and loosen it up. Then it pulled right out as well. The reason the baffle is so tight is because, at the head pipe end of the muffler, it is pressed over the sleeve that extends down in the muffler a short distance. (The same part that slips over the head pipe.) I didn't have any problems with it getting stuck or bending the sloping part of the baffle. Originally I tried a piece of wood, but as you are well aware, it kept getting wedged it there. I also used a rubber mallet to knock the baffles back in place when I was putting them back in. It was definitely more work than I was planning on, but I'm pleased with the results. At least now Ican live withit until I can afford to get a PCIII and V&H big radius. (and probably a K&N or big sucker air cleaner.) I'll try to get a sound clip this weekend, although I'm not sure how well it will convey the difference, since I don't have a clip of what it sounded like before. BTW- I have talked to several people, one being the senior service tech at a larger HD dealership, and they all agree that it won't hurt anything by removing the packing as long as you put the baffles back in. I do know the bike is running lean, but from what all I've been hearing and reading, it's set up that way from the factory. Like I said, though, next on my list is an air cleaner kit and PCIII. The pipes I can wait a while for. I hope this helps. Good luck!
-Z
 
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Old 01-11-2007, 09:35 PM
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Default RE: Removing baffles from new Screamin Eagle Slip-Ons

Ok drilling out the slits worked ok and it does sound better. I decided to order rush 2.0 slash downs, so I will let you know how much better they sound when I get them.
 
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Old 01-13-2007, 06:34 PM
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Default RE: Removing baffles from new Screamin Eagle Slip-Ons

Thanks for the info zmeister. I was doing the same thing. I think my problem is the size of the piece of wood I was using to pound the baffle out. I'm going to try and make a 1 3/4" pounding stick and try again.

 
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Old 01-14-2007, 01:01 AM
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Default RE: Removing baffles from new Screamin Eagle Slip-Ons

I finally got the baffles out. I found some 1 5/8" tubing, and used that to pound them out. I then removed the fiberglass. I do like the sound. It's not quit as loud as I want it, but it is much better.Thanks for all the help.
 
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Old 01-14-2007, 08:26 AM
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Default RE: Removing baffles from new Screamin Eagle Slip-Ons

That's what I thought, as well. I like the sound a lot. It is waaayyy better than before, but still not as loud as I was looking for. The V&H are definitely in my future, but the Big Sucker and PCIII have to come first. I'm still undecided between the Big Radius and the Big Radius 2-1. I've never really been a big fan of the look of a 2 into 1, but that new BR looks awsome. The back of the pipe looks HUGE.
-Z
 
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:13 AM
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Default RE: Removing baffles from new Screamin Eagle Slip-Ons

ORIGINAL: zmeister

That's what I thought, as well. I like the sound a lot. It is waaayyy better than before, but still not as loud as I was looking for. The V&H are definitely in my future, but the Big Sucker and PCIII have to come first. I'm still undecided between the Big Radius and the Big Radius 2-1. I've never really been a big fan of the look of a 2 into 1, but that new BR looks awsome. The back of the pipe looks HUGE.
-Z
Drill out those two slits in the angled part of the baffel, it will give you more sound and I have had no perfamance problems. I am waiting fo my 2.0 rush slip ons to come in this week. Soon as they are on bye bye Se slips ons!
 

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