I got two different quotes:

$2600, including the 20K mile service, fork oil, etc; changing to gear driven chain tensioner conversion. Freedom Cycles in Orange, CA.

$1400 gear driven chain tensioner conversion. OC Harley Davidson dealer, Irvine CA.

How do you know where to go? Maybe I can do it myself? I have experience mechanically, rebuilt a couple of car engines. Just never worked on a Harley.
Is $2600 too much??

 

This the correct part from Harley, yes?
http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/568/11...ioner-Kit.aspx

And, what's the difference between the hydraulic kit and the gear driven kit?

 

great looking bike! The link is for the hydraulic conversion kit, not the gear drive kit. Big difference in price. Gear drive is better but your crank runout needs to be checked before you install..Hydraulic conversion works will work regardless of runout..

 

Thanks!
How exactly does the hydraulic conversion work? Does it use a different material for the tension block?
How do you check runout and why is it important? If the runout is ok for the gear conversion, couldn't it change after the gears are installed?

 

The hydraulic conversion (25284-11) converts the early spring loaded tensioners to hydraulic tensioners and the tensioner shoe is a different material. The kit you linked is the "hybrid" kit that will allow the use of early cams but still runs the early Morse inner chain; not a roller chain. You can run gears with that kit as well.

The other kit (25282-11) is the billet plate and upgraded oil pump only; the upgrade for the '05 and later models. You will need the rest of the parts to complete the conversion; outer and inner roller chains, outer sprockets, outer and inner tensioners, cam spacer kit and fasteners since your bike is a 2001 model. You can run gear drives with that kit as well but will need "conversion" cams.



If you want to run gear drives, you can run them in the OEM cam plate but the upgraded oil pump will not retrofit to the early cam plate. You can install the Baisley spring to get a boost in idle oil pressure. The early plate with the Baisle spring is an adequate setup.

Crank runout is measured at the pinion shaft with a dial indicator and should total runout should not exceed .003" to run gear drives. There are under and over size gears available to set the gear backlash within acceptable limits but runout is what it is and it would not be adviseable to run gears if crank runout is excessive.

 

So...

1. The hydraulic tensioner is less expensive, however, the gear setup is better.
2. You shouldn't run the gear setup unless your runout is within spec.

What is the main problem with the original spring setup, just the material? If so, is there an upgrade for the material? Or, is there something else I am missing here?

 

The dealers in Illinois are charging $620 for the 50000 mile service (which includes fork oil change) and 1050 for the hydrolic cam tensioner upgrade with labor. $2600 sounds quite a bit high.

 

The SE Hybrid hydraulic conversion is less expensive than a gear drive setup. You can buy PN 25284-11 for about $400 from an online discount dealer like Newcastle, Surdyke, etc.
A gear drive setup to convert your OEM plate/pump to gear drives will run about $450. You get rid of the spring loaded tensioners but you miss out on the upgraded oil pump that comes with the hydraulic upgrade.

I wouldn't say the gear setup is better than the hydraulic upgrade but there are plenty on this forum that believe gears are the only way to go; each to his own. Yes, you should not consider gear drives if total crank runout exceeds .003".

The problem with the spring loaded tensioers is the constant heavy pressure of the springs against a non-roller chain and tensioner shoe matrial that is brittle and prone to cracking and premature wear. There is a substitute for the material available from CYCO; a gasket supplier. So, you could go the really cheap route and install new cams, new inner and outer cam bearings and the CYCO tensioner shoes and probably live happily ever after.

 

Thanks for the replies! I think I understand now. Seems like the best way to go is the hydraulic tensioner; heard it is about 1400 to install.

Has anyone here done it themselves? I would like to go with adjustable push-rods and some new cams too.

 

My Harley shop (Woodstock HD in Illinois) has a special for the upgrade and labor for $899. I'm strongly considering it.