small leak at primary..what tools to buy
#1
small leak at primary..what tools to buy
ive got a small leak coming off the bottom of my primary, Havent tore it apart yet, but looking underneath, it looks like its coming from behind the inner primary. The sprocket and belt look dry. I went ahead and ordered all the seals, gaskets and 1 piece bearing.
Im gonna have to buy the right tools, prob from georges..wandering if the trans holder and 1 7/8 mainshaft socket are all i need to buy, or do i need to also buy the seal installers? Not sure yet how im gonna tackle the race and bearing..figured id just cut the race with a dremel and split it..but not sure how the bearing comes out..havent been into a harley primary before.
Im gonna have to buy the right tools, prob from georges..wandering if the trans holder and 1 7/8 mainshaft socket are all i need to buy, or do i need to also buy the seal installers? Not sure yet how im gonna tackle the race and bearing..figured id just cut the race with a dremel and split it..but not sure how the bearing comes out..havent been into a harley primary before.
#4
#6
yep..remove the inner race, then use the 1 piece bearing upgrade. It was either use a 1 piece bearing, or use the s&s inner race. I like the idea of the 1 piece better. The baker 1 piece has gotten some mixed reviews..i think its a single row bearing. The Jims, and also all ***** is a double row
#7
ive got a small leak coming off the bottom of my primary, Havent tore it apart yet, but looking underneath, it looks like its coming from behind the inner primary. The sprocket and belt look dry. I went ahead and ordered all the seals, gaskets and 1 piece bearing. Im gonna have to buy the right tools, prob from georges..wandering if the trans holder and 1 7/8 mainshaft socket are all i need to buy, or do i need to also buy the seal installers? Not sure yet how im gonna tackle the race and bearing..figured id just cut the race with a dremel and split it..but not sure how the bearing comes out..havent been into a harley primary before.
All the seals would include shift shaft seal, mainshaft seal, quad seal (I would replace the spacer as well), mainshaft/5th gear seal, the tiny seal on the locking washer that secures the starter pinion/jackshaft. That seal often goes unnoticed but that washer has a rubber seal on the ID of the washer. Also need the inner primary bearing seal. Might as well replace them all while your are in there.
You can manage without the trans pulley holder if you remove the trans top cover and put the trans in two gears at once; that will lock the mainshaft. You will need a press to remove the inner primary bearing and to install the new one piece unit. I have installed all the seals without special tools but a piece of suitable size PVC will work as well.
Read the SM; the inner primary bearing seal is marked "oil side"; many have installed it backwards. Protect the inner primary seal from the mainshaft splines with painters tape or something similar. That seal can be nicked real easy as the mainshaft splines are sharp.
Drain the transmission before you start work or you will have a mess. You will need a good set of snap ring pliers to remove that inner primary bearing snap ring.
Don't know what model year you are working on but no sealant between the inner primary and engine case; metal to metal. Sealant under the bolt heads and lock tabs. Change the o-ring at the stator housing and derby cover.
Take your time; nothing more aggravating than working on the inner primary, getting all done and still having a leak. Read the SM; no shortcuts
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#8
Agreee with DJ! just went through this last year on my 2003, replace all the seals and bearing between the mainshaft tranny to the outer primary. Seals and bearing are pretty cheap when compared to removing it all again because 1 is still leaking. I would also purchase new lock tabs for the inner primary and have the lock-tite specified in the SM for the compensating sprocket nut and clutch hub. Also I believe the compensating sprocket is 1 1/2" and the clutch hub is like 1 3/16". Not exactly sure of the clutch hub but if you have a standard 3/4 drive socket set you should have the correct sockets to remove. If not visit 1 of your buddies with a tractor, he'll have the big stuff.
#9
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Thx DJL
BadBagger08 ;-)
BadBagger08 ;-)
Some random thoughts/suggestions for a first time DIY venture into the H-D inner primary.
All the seals would include shift shaft seal, mainshaft seal, quad seal (I would replace the spacer as well), mainshaft/5th gear seal, the tiny seal on the locking washer that secures the starter pinion/jackshaft. That seal often goes unnoticed but that washer has a rubber seal on the ID of the washer. Also need the inner primary bearing seal. Might as well replace them all while your are in there.
You can manage without the trans pulley holder if you remove the trans top cover and put the trans in two gears at once; that will lock the mainshaft. You will need a press to remove the inner primary bearing and to install the new one piece unit. I have installed all the seals without special tools but a piece of suitable size PVC will work as well.
Read the SM; the inner primary bearing seal is marked "oil side"; many have installed it backwards. Protect the inner primary seal from the mainshaft splines with painters tape or something similar. That seal can be nicked real easy as the mainshaft splines are sharp.
Drain the transmission before you start work or you will have a mess. You will need a good set of snap ring pliers to remove that inner primary bearing snap ring.
Don't know what model year you are working on but no sealant between the inner primary and engine case; metal to metal. Sealant under the bolt heads and lock tabs. Change the o-ring at the stator housing and derby cover.
Take your time; nothing more aggravating than working on the inner primary, getting all done and still having a leak. Read the SM; no shortcuts
All the seals would include shift shaft seal, mainshaft seal, quad seal (I would replace the spacer as well), mainshaft/5th gear seal, the tiny seal on the locking washer that secures the starter pinion/jackshaft. That seal often goes unnoticed but that washer has a rubber seal on the ID of the washer. Also need the inner primary bearing seal. Might as well replace them all while your are in there.
You can manage without the trans pulley holder if you remove the trans top cover and put the trans in two gears at once; that will lock the mainshaft. You will need a press to remove the inner primary bearing and to install the new one piece unit. I have installed all the seals without special tools but a piece of suitable size PVC will work as well.
Read the SM; the inner primary bearing seal is marked "oil side"; many have installed it backwards. Protect the inner primary seal from the mainshaft splines with painters tape or something similar. That seal can be nicked real easy as the mainshaft splines are sharp.
Drain the transmission before you start work or you will have a mess. You will need a good set of snap ring pliers to remove that inner primary bearing snap ring.
Don't know what model year you are working on but no sealant between the inner primary and engine case; metal to metal. Sealant under the bolt heads and lock tabs. Change the o-ring at the stator housing and derby cover.
Take your time; nothing more aggravating than working on the inner primary, getting all done and still having a leak. Read the SM; no shortcuts
#10
Thanks djl.. I ordered every seal, the spacer, sealing washer, lock tabs, a new inner bearing, but then went ahead and bought the Jim's 1 piece bearing kit. I spin wrenches for a living, but on large stuff, 7000 cubic in engines, I'm sure I could prob get it done without buying the special tools, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.. Just my luck I'd bugger up a shaft or pulley trying to get it apart. I'm sure this wont be the last one I have to dig into, lol