Harley Davidson Forums - The Dyno Room https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ A special room dedicated for Dyno tuning products, troubleshooting and results. All Gearheads and Dyno Operators are welcome here as well as the guys that are new to tuning. Please see the special rules for this section before posting. en Thu, 21 May 2026 19:06:48 GMT vBulletin 60 https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/kirsch/misc/rss.jpg Harley Davidson Forums - The Dyno Room https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ DYNOJET Need A Tune... https://www.hdforums.com/forum/the-dyno-room/1493581-need-a-tune-new-post.html Tue, 05 May 2026 12:25:35 GMT Hey All..
Need a little help.. I'm having a problem finding a Tune for a 2012 Street Glide with a 120R.. It's a good friend of mines bike and with all the diagnosing I've done it appears that the Tune is corrupt.. He has a Power Commander 6 with Target tune. I'm going to see if I can download his tune into my software and have a look but I'm not sure if it's only available in C3 or if I can use my Power Vision software as a .pvt file.

The issue is, it's not running and the tune is dumping so much fuel into the cylinders that it's actually hydro locking. I tested fuel pressure , it's 56 psi and holds well so that tells me that the injectors are not leaking by but are being commanded to dump too much fuel.

I'm looking for a tune in .pvt that I can download into the ECM and go from there.. If anyone can help me out I would appreciate it.. Thanks.. ]]> The Dyno Room 98hotrodfatboy https://www.hdforums.com/forum/the-dyno-room/1493581-need-a-tune.html TTS O2 Sensors Bad? https://www.hdforums.com/forum/the-dyno-room/1493528-o2-sensors-bad-new-post.html Sun, 03 May 2026 23:26:45 GMT I was trying to V Tune a 2016 FLHXSE and V Tune kept going into open loop mode. AE, DE, Engine Temp, Load, Front O2, Rear O2 all remained green Image: I went back and looked at the recordings... I was trying to V Tune a 2016 FLHXSE and V Tune kept going into open loop mode. AE, DE, Engine Temp, Load, Front O2, Rear O2 all remained green



I went back and looked at the recordings in Data Master and they look like this



I was using a green interface with wide bands in this first one so I kept recording open loop data



Again using a green interface with wide bands, at this point I figured out that something was wrong and stopped. Read the tuning guide and found out I should not have enabled Dynamic Tune in the calibration



Reflashed the calibration without Dynamic Tune enabled but still using the green interface and widebands



On the fourth attempt I enabled Dynamic Tune and tried using the blue tooth interface, just trying to gather closed loop data, I got to 2000 RPM and then the O2 sensors went flat like you see in the graph

I just find it odd that both O2 sensors would act up at the same time, could it be something else?
]]> The Dyno Room Fat11Lo https://www.hdforums.com/forum/the-dyno-room/1493528-o2-sensors-bad.html DYNOJET Disabled Target Tune... https://www.hdforums.com/forum/the-dyno-room/1493400-disabled-target-tune-new-post.html Thu, 30 Apr 2026 02:18:06 GMT 2013 Street Bob build specs in sig..
I've been having a little difficulty trying to get a really good tune into my bike after the 117 build.. I can configure the VE's to get me close but when i try to find tune them the AFR's go too rich and I get a little spark knock at time above 80Kpa.. I just don't seem to get consist AFR's from data log to data log...

So what I decided to do today was disable closed loop on the Power Vision and with my most current tune that was already loaded into the ECM take a ride and do a data log.. On my first ride while logging I was monitoring front and rear AFR's on the PV screen and they were running a bit high..14-15.5.. So I pulled over went into Quick tune and increase the low range fuel by 3% and that seemed to do a good job.. I also increased the midrange by 3%as well.. I continued data logging and made sure i was able to log the entire TPS range.. Even did a test hit in 3rd gear at 30 mph up into 5th gear@120 mph.. I was very surprised to see my AFR's were actually pretty good and as load increase the AFR's decreased to 13.1 from 4000 rpm and up... I'll attach my data log for accurate info if any one is interested..

I felt good about what I saw but here's the thing, the same tune with closed loop enabled would produce spark knock but not when I disabled closed loop.. To disable closed loop I set my enable point to 102 kpa and disable point at 101 kpa but the O2 sensors would still give real time AFR's and my VE table was still being corrected by the ECM. So with this information I'm going to use my data log to try to get my VE tables as close as possible to the new VE settings that the ECM is adjusting to to try to hit my target AFR,s.. I'll post a picture of those as well..

Question is, can I just run my tune with closed loop disabled in the PV all the time because the system seems to follow the VE tables very well and it appears that my targeted AFR's are more consistent.. And I like the benefit of no donation..

I do know that I will need to increase my low and midrange VE's by 3% and when i do i will do another data log..


Attached Files
File Type: csv
log0002.csv (1.22 MB)
]]> The Dyno Room 98hotrodfatboy https://www.hdforums.com/forum/the-dyno-room/1493400-disabled-target-tune.html HARLEY Jim’s Daytona Twin Tech ignition questions with big bore build https://www.hdforums.com/forum/the-dyno-room/1493394-jimis-daytona-twin-tech-ignition-questions-with-big-bore-build-new-post.html Wed, 29 Apr 2026 23:02:07 GMT I recently upgraded a healthy amount on my 99 Dyna FXDX. Here’s the list of upgrades followed by the issues I am having.

S&S 100” big bore kit (just cylinders and pistons)
mikuni HSR-45 carb kit (middle notch on needle, 25 pilot, 170 main, engine is currently leaning to the clean side of lean)
compensator delete
extra plate clutch
fueling OE+ cam plate
screamin’ eagle 211 comp cam
two brothers racing comp-s 2 into 1 exhaust
Daytona Twin Tech programmable ignition with launch control (currently at 1, 5 and 4) also have their ignition coil from the kit on the bike.
Upgraded to a 1.2kW starter and 320CCA battery and bigger battery cables. I only run 91.


So, when I go to start the bike it will crank for 5-6 seconds then pop out the exhaust and act like it wants to start. If I continue to hold the starter after that for a couple seconds and let go of the starter button it back fires crazy out the exhaust. Then after it does that I will go to start it again it will start picking up and eventually start. When it starts I have to keep the rpm’s above 1200 or it drops the rear cylinder until it reaches operating temp, then it will idle on both cylinders at 1100rpm-1300rpm. It runs and rides down the road just fine and doesn’t randomly die or cough or back fire, just popping on decel. But if you try to stab the throttle it dies, you have to roll onto the throttle either at idle or while riding at highway speeds. There is no grabbing a fist full. I have no idea if it’s carb, ignition or both. I just want to get her running and enjoy what I invested in. All help is very much appreciated, I am all ears and excited to learn.





]]> The Dyno Room swayze0426 https://www.hdforums.com/forum/the-dyno-room/1493394-jimis-daytona-twin-tech-ignition-questions-with-big-bore-build.html