Harley Davidson Forums - Shovelhead

To fill or not to fill is the question...

chizzler — Thu, 21 May 2026 17:09:36 GMT

Ok, I'm bored today so I thought I'd ask a question that should get the flames started. I noticed that the Shovelhead oil filter is pretty much the last thing the oil goes through before it goes back to the tank. That's backwards of most engines and, in my opinion, one of the completely ridiculous things that Harley did with them. Since the filter is after all the oil comes from the engine, is it necessary to fill it before you put it on? Though I did fill mine and it's not going to hurt I don't think it really matters. It should have no effect on the pressure at start up. What do you guys say? Are the newer engines like that also? Evo or TC or do they clean the oil right before it goes through the engine?

1984 FLH LH downtube Silver Frame Tag??

Shovelheadbill84 — Wed, 20 May 2026 01:34:48 GMT

I have an 84 FLH that I powdercoated the frame years ago and I need to recreate the silver frame tag sticker. So I would like a little assistance from forum members with a 1981-1984 Flh. Could you give me the height and width dimensions of the silver tag on the RH downtube. Thanks in advanced.

lifters

Ken45 — Mon, 18 May 2026 22:25:12 GMT

After reading around on the topic of lifters I decided to buy Eastern lifter bodies and the package says made in the USA. I got them and they look nice and have the Jap rollers on them. When comparing to the originals, I measure the outside diameter and OEM is .731" and Eastern are .730". I want to use my hydraulic insert (.516" OD) and it will not fit, the bore in the lifter body is too small. I am trying to send them back now. Not sure what I will do now.

Valve Train Noise

chizzler — Fri, 15 May 2026 19:55:09 GMT

Hey Fellas,
I got a couple hundred miles on the '82 FLT and it's running and riding great so far. I think all the work has been a success. The only thing I notice is the valve train is a little loud. I did replace almost everything during the recent rebuild and went with the S&S 450s cam, solid lifters and pushrods. I expect the solids to be noisy, but what I notice is that it's totally quiet on start up and seems to get loud when it's warmed up. I'm using 20w50 oil and I adjusted the valves cold making the pushrods snug enough that they have no play and they're a little difficult to turn by hand. I listened to them with a stethoscope and each one seems equally loud. It's not any one in particular. Is that just a characteristic of these engines with solid lifters? I was thinking maybe the cast iron jug expands more than the pushrod and creates a little bit of space in the valvetrain when it's hot? Normally I would expect with most engines that they're loud on start up and get quieter once they're warmed up. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Traditional bobber style hinge rear fender

FX Man — Fri, 15 May 2026 19:06:18 GMT

Hello all, I am in the process of making my 1972 FLH into a period correct traditional style bobber. Question I have is relating to the hinge rear fender, back in the day when bobbers were the first style of custom ( knuckles/pans etc) typically was just the hing pin removed or the entire hinge assembly? Or was the fender just cut off? Your feedback is greatly appreciated.

Super basic E-start wiring help (pictures) please?

Robtattoo — Mon, 11 May 2026 20:33:09 GMT

I've got my 81 shovel almost to the electrical wizardry stage.

I've wired up a couple of simple sporty chops, but this is my first time dealing with the funky shovelhead starters solenoid carbuncle thing.

I'll be using a car style ignition switch, so no button & therefore, no relay to worry about (I'm led to believe). I can't find ANYTHING online regarding how to do this. Everything I've found shows either a button start with a relay, or a simple on/off switch & feeler gauge mod.

Can anyone show me, super simply, how to make this work please? With pictures or drawings would be an immense help, I have a complete mental block on electrickery.

I can do the rest, it's just the battery-switch-solenoid (why does it have 3 poles???) -starter bit I'm headscratching....

The shiny bits are at the platers, the cushiony bit it's at the upholsterers & I'm mid-paint myself. I'd like to get this set in my head before I start bolting it all back together in a couple of weeks.

exhaust

john lee — Sat, 09 May 2026 22:11:50 GMT

has anyone sandblasted exhausts with success. ive seen one done and looks great but would it last ?

'81 pushrod installation trouble

Robtattoo — Sat, 09 May 2026 14:43:38 GMT

My engine runs *chef's kiss* perfectly & is 100% oil tight, however, it was in need of a little tidying & paint. I pulled the pushrod tubes & rods without removing the rocker boxes (and I reeeally don't want to have to....) pulled the lifter blocks out & got everything cleaned, polished & mostly put back together.
I absolutely CANNOT get the rear cylinder, intake pushrod back in. It was a tight fit getting it out & I've already stabbed a screwdriver through my thumb trying to get the bastard back onto the tappet. Oh, it's hydraulic lifters, by the way. The other 3 drop in, no problem, this one just doesn't seem to have enough compression in the spring to let the pushrod ball in. The lifters have been out of the motor (and laid on their sides, if it makes a difference) for 5 days, so I can't imagine there's any pressure left. The outer piston (?) is fully seated & the cam is absolutely at the lowest point (I'm looking at it through the lifter block hole for the front cylinder) but the little, sprung, inner piston just will not compress far enough.

Is there a trick I'm missing or am I really going to have to pull the frigging rockers? 🫩

Rear belt width

Gurra — Thu, 07 May 2026 09:12:36 GMT

Hello everyone! New to the forum and bought my first shovelhead a few weeks ago, it�s in pretty good shape but need some work after being parked for 10 years. It�s an 1985 FLHP (maybe deluxe?) that was used in the middle east but it�s been stripped a little over the years, and some parts are not original. I need to change the rear drive belt and I measure it at 1 1/2� wide and 125 tooth long. I pretty much can�t find that belt online with decent shipping time but can I just use a 1 1/8� belt instead or do I need to swap pulleys aswell? The parts catalog says it�s a 1 1/2� 126 tooth belt but I count the one coming of the bike at 125 tooth

'81 FXWG buying a drive chain

canoli — Sun, 03 May 2026 20:22:17 GMT

Hey guys just wondering if you all go with X or O-ring chains on your shovels or just stick with standard.

BMIKARTS.COM has a Diamond 530 (standard) for $40.
X-ring O-ring etc chains are >$200 more wherever I look online.
$220 at J&P for a Diamond 530 XDL 102-link. I like to buy chains long and the 110 is $240.

Got a dose of sticker shock; it's been quite awhile since I bought a drive chain.

So I need a nudge either way, standard or expensive. I don't mind spending the money but it's a big difference. This would be my first O/X/etc chain are they really super-duper awesome? Is there more to it than the O-ring chains being (basically) maintenance-free?

Thanks for any thoughts you can share ...
-Rich

Clutch hub

Ken45 — Fri, 01 May 2026 19:23:11 GMT

Clutch hub I have is showing wear on the studs so I thought I would replace it. Who makes the best or do they all come from the same place ? Also I could replace the studs on mine but not sure if it is worth the work and time. Opinions are welcome.

prices

john lee — Thu, 30 Apr 2026 21:11:56 GMT

my au harley mech says shovel prices are going up agree ?spotted this 80model $19500 au

4 Speed Mainshaft

HellaGNARLY — Tue, 28 Apr 2026 00:31:28 GMT

Trying to remove the main shaft. Things I�m reading and watching telling once I get the circlip off and slide 3rd gear over, I can just push the shaft through the kicker side.

it looks like the bearing race is too small to pass 1st gear. Am I missing something? Yes - I know the tranny is disgusting. That�s why I�m rebuilding it. It was in a parts pile. Thanks.

Inner primary install

76HDflh — Sun, 26 Apr 2026 13:03:46 GMT

They say no such thing as a stupid question so here goes! Bike is a 1976 FLH, I�m changing trans sprocket, replace seals. The engine and transmission are bolted down, when I reinstall the inner primary do I have to loosen the transmission or can the inner primary be bolted back in place since nothing loosened when inner primary was removed. Thank you for any assistance.

brake fluid upgrade

Spat — Sat, 25 Apr 2026 18:34:07 GMT

I should start a re-build thread for my '69 Electraglide that's been out of service way too long and all the different rabbit holes I'm going down. Currently I'm dealing with the brake system. My master cylinder was bone dry and so corroded and assuming the wheel cylinder will be as well I'm thinking replace them over rebuilding. The master cylinder I'm looking at states 'DOT 5 Compatible' not finding a definite answer on the WWW for backward compatible to DOT3, I turned to an acquaintance a known professional mechanic, industry and collector car expert with the question. His comments were yes you can use that master cylinder with the DOT 3 but why just change to the DOT 5, I'm wanting to agree with him. New or rebuilt master and wheel cylinder all I have to do is flush the brake line while there off. My thought is "can't hurt" and the DOT 5 silicone base won't corrode from drawing moisture in, maybe even better braking as long as I remember no more DOT 3. I'll let y'all know how that goes., just don't expect it soon.
Ongoing project

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