Hope you didn't think I was being critical when I mentioned WLC. I was just supplying extra info.

I’m not sure why your uncle said it’s a WLD. Originally a WLD would have the letters WLD stamped in the engine VIN. But that engine VIN doesn’t say WLD; instead it only says WL. And I wouldn’t expect to see a 46WLD because AFAIK the WLD was only made for 1937–42. Did a title and/or any other paperwork come with the bike? If so, maybe WLD is mistakenly mentioned on the papers?

Because some VIN characters aren’t consistent with factory stamping for 1946 we don’t yet know what originally happened with the left case or with the VIN. When you get the other pictures and info we may be able to figure it out.

In the meantime I've tried to attach a photo to illustrate how a 46WL VIN is normally stamped:
1. notice the top of the 4 is not closed; instead it is open. And for 1946, any 4s in the sequence portion would also have an open top.
2. notice the 6 is not rounded; instead its back is straight. And for 1946, any 6s in the sequence portion would also have a straight back.
3. notice the 1 does not have its top serif at about forty-five degrees; instead its top serif is horizontal.

Queensland is a nice state. In 1993 some of my mates and I rode our Harleys over there. We left from here in Perth, rode through South Australia and onto Brisbane in Queensland where we stayed with friends for a weekend. Then we rode to Darwin in the Northern Territory and then down the west coast back to Perth. I rode my Panhead and my mates were on Evos.
Eric

 

The characters on my VIN match the one SBT just posted. I agree with him, the numbers do not look correct for 1946. I also agree with all of his previous comments on the casting numbers that you can post to help verify other parts of the story.

 

I invite critical thoughts! Thats why I am here and am very glad you guys are offering your knowledge.

I'll give a little history on my uncle. 2 years ago he wrecked his bike headed back home from visiting us. We figure ether his front tire blew out, or he fell asleep on a 70mph highway. He doesn't remember anything from the wreck. He got messed up bad, cut his face in half, and broke bones all over his body. He suffered a brain injury, so his memory isn't quite as sharp as it used to be.

When I was there to take the pictures I mentioned that WLC is Canadian Army model, and not civilian. He said that he's certain its a civilian model so maybe its a WLD. So he might be guessing at the model number, ether that or he doesn't remember.

He might think its a civilian model because thats what was told to him by who he bought it from, not sure. He said he does have a title for the bike, I imagine its probably in his file and hasn't seen it for many years.

 

I've read all the posts on this thread. It appears to have all the makings of a really nice bike. Transmission may be ok, because they are really sturdy. You mention, you might build a bobber, it would cost less and be easier than a full restoration. 45's had oil in the right tank and gas in the left tank, but 45 tanks would be ideal, because of the shift gate. Consider the original style rocker clutch, because they are much safer. A bobber would allow you to use a disc brake on the front, 45 front brakes are famous for being worthless. Big twin forks ar 2 inches taller than a 45 springer. The neck spindle is smaller on a 45. Special bearings can allow them to be interchanged. I have a 45 springer on a big twin frame.
I realize you want to be fair with your uncle, but I just paid 2800.00 to have a UL motor done plus parts. The fact you motor is assembled, you may not need many parts.
Let us know how your purchase turns out.
good luck

 

Well I haven't made the purchase yet. My 45 fund has been growing slower than I expected, but it's getting there ha ha. Unfortunately my wife won't let me tap into our other funds. The bike isn't going anywhere though. It will be mine though hopefully soon.

So it appears that maybe it might be a mix and match of parts. He originally told me 1945 so I'm sot sure if i misspoke earlier in the post.

so with the given parts, lets just say they are mixed and matched, what would be a fair price for both of us. I think he's thinking in the $3500 range. I will be spending a lot on a rebuild. ill probably have the engine completely rebuilt which will cost me quite a bit, but I want to do it right. and of course coatings and paint on the rest and parts etc to get it to a good nice looking running condition. (just a nice looking bobber not a complete restoration to factory)

So i Know this will end up costing me a ton. So with the given parts, would $3500 be a fair price or should I shoot a little lower?