Hi aj,

thanks for the reply mate. Yeah i know what you mean by the bars over hanging the triple tree. Thats the reason it's taken me so long to find a bar, because i dont like it either. I measured 8" on the tree on my street bob and it looks like it won't overhang. I looked at the burly narrows, but whn i saw the 16", they look to narrow to me, that's why i wanted your opinion on the santee. I think i might give them a go. Cheers

 

I have a 2010 fxdwg and just installed 16" apes. If you contact Burly you tell them the size apes you have and they will sell you the cable/ wire extensions needed to install. The extensions are already pinned at the ends for almost a plug and play setup. You have to take apart the stock HD plugs, adds extensions, heat shrink, feed harness through bars, reassemble HD plugs, shove the harness back in the frame and wiring done.


Didn't you have to a adjust your clutch through the primary as well as the cable? Did you adjust the primary with the bike straight up or on he kickstand?

FYI 2010 fxdwg has 1 1/4 in bars so to get a bigger choice in style of bars you have to get custom bars or change your risers.

 

Burly sounds like a good setup, and I would suspect, a great choice for those wanting to do it themselves without a lot of wiring headache. Thanks for the info!

As for the clutch adjustment, only on the sportsters is the clutch cable ran through the primary on the left side of the bike. So no, as on big twins, the clutch cable goes directly to the right side where the clutch assy is located on the side of the transmission.

I did my cable adjustment with the bike on the kick stand, as it does not matter whether or not the bike is standing upright or not, the cable length will not change once it is adjusted and locket down. I did, however, have the forks centered when I did my adjustment. The reason it doesnt matter is also because the clutch wheel - which the cable runs into - is spring loaded into its normal position. Squeezing the clutch lever pulls the cable, which in turn, pulls the wheel, which pulls the spring open, and separates the fly wheel from the gears box. So really, all you ever need to do in order to adjust your clutch cable, is tighten it until your clutch lever is held open.

 

Ajpointless
Ya I understand that the sportsters have the cable to the primary. But I thought you were suppose to take primary cover off loosen center bolt in clutch pack screw it back till you feel I bit of resistance and then tighten the set nut. Then adjust the cable as you stated. I am about to add the new fluids to the bike. Did I *** something up? I am sure I read this in the book. Please set me straight.

 

Its all good bro, if you have a maintenance manual that you are using to do your maintenance, and that is what it says to do, then by all means, follow that. LOL!

In reality, it is not necessary to do any of that, simply because your not actually changing anything with the transmission or the actual clutch. All you are doing is changing the length of the cable to the clutch. So the only thing that really needs to be adjusted is the tightness of the cable so that squeezing the clutch lever will engage the clutch. Simply removing the clutch cover on the right side of the bike (where the cable screws into), and changing out the cable, wont affect anything with your clutch or transmission because the part that the cable hooks into is spring loaded into its rightful position to begin with. You have to physically move it in order to remove the cable and install the new one, but once you let go, it goes right back to normal. Once the new cable is installed into the cover, simply reinstall the cover, torque it down, install the cable to the handle bar, and lastly, adjust the cable length so the clutch lever is just tight enough to not be loose and engages the clutch properly. Job done.

No on the other hand, if you intend to make actual adjustments to the clutch assy itself, then the step you are describing might be necessary. However, I did not do this, and have not needed to. So to be blunt, I have not researched that yet, and know nothing about performing that procedure, as I do not have a need for internal maintenance on my transmission.

 

Crap! I new what I was doing seemed to be a waste of time!as I was replacing the cable I was thinking what the hell do I need to do these other steps for. Thanks

 

This is a good read for anyone wanting to do a bar swap....

 

GR8 post, Thanks

 

Very nice step by step post. I only have one little problem with it,IT IS SPELLED BRAKES !!! NOT BREAKS,BRAKES !!!!
Sorry,kind of a pet peeve of mine. Again, great post !
My apologies ...

 

Rock on bro!, I appreciated your instructions. I also am an A&P mechanic. I changed one thing for my install. I was looking on Amazon for cables and wiring for my 16" Chubbies. I am going to internal wiring, and wanted to keep it as simple as possible. I dont mind splicing, but when doing internal wiring, there is always a fudge factor, ie: rubbing on the dimples, etc. I found BKbiker has a wiring harness that includes already installed switches for under $50 bucks. It had 18" extra lead past the riser which was more than enough. Then, I went to HD and got their Dsuse plugs, both for another 40bucks. This makes a clean install. It looks professional and has no wire breaks to give future problems.