CV Carburetor kit
#1
#2
I've had 4 motors built 100HP or more using CV's with stock CV jets. I'm not a believer in any of the aftermarket carb stuff; OK if you are an inveterate tinkerer or an independent shop trying to upsell for a buck, but nothing is necessary other than someone who knows carbs and has a stock jet kit. Period. Just my opinion based on what I've experienced...
#3
http://www.cv-performance.com/
I would not use the Dynojet kit. They generally give poor performance and mileage, and utilize non-stock jets (threaded for their emulsion tube and sized/numbered differently).
Sharkey is correct, you can rejet with only a few stock HD parts (main jet, slow jet, and needle), but some of the parts are no longer available...so CV Performance provides a good alternative.
Be careful changing springs and enlarging the slide vacuum hole. It's usually not needed, and can lead to problems.
#5
I used to build some of the best CV carbs around. No brag. Just a lot of work and patience. I never used any of the kits. Since the carbs are/were used on several different brands of bikes, there is no reason for any of the parts to be hard to come by.
This is all you need to know. http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm
I took it a step further and took the carb down to the barest I could get. Then I deburred and polished every thing I could get next to. Don't get carried away. You are only removing the minor casting marks and polishing the ports. Trust me, it makes a huge difference. Be very careful with the screws, both removing and replacing them. They are made of a soft metal and the wrong screwdriver size or a little too much torque can ruin your day. If you are heavy handed, in any area of this build, don't do it. Or at least have a spare carb available.
This is all you need to know. http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm
I took it a step further and took the carb down to the barest I could get. Then I deburred and polished every thing I could get next to. Don't get carried away. You are only removing the minor casting marks and polishing the ports. Trust me, it makes a huge difference. Be very careful with the screws, both removing and replacing them. They are made of a soft metal and the wrong screwdriver size or a little too much torque can ruin your day. If you are heavy handed, in any area of this build, don't do it. Or at least have a spare carb available.
#6
I had great luck with the cv but I just found the mukuni to be better theres a fast port for jet changes and a jet change takes 1 min with a hand tool...the mukuni is set right out of the box..the cv is great but u have to mess with it the mukuni u just slap on if not it's 60 sec jet change
#7
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#8
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Archdale, North Cackolacky
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I agree with this. The only mod I did to the carb on my TC88 was swapping the stock needle for the CV Performance needle and the mixture screw adjustment. This was after a Ness Big Sucker intake and slip on mufflers. Bike runs great.
#9
All it took for mine was a washer under the stock needle, 46 slow jet , and I put the thumb screw mixture adjustment. Bike runs great!