Down shifting to help brake
#21
You, of course, need to down shift as you approach a red light and such so you will be ready if it turns green and such but brake pads and rotors are much more economic than all that silly clutching, shifting and unclutching's. And also all that wear and tear on the transmission and engine.
If you keep a bike for the long haul, just down shift and use the brake. If you just keep it a few years and drive it like on a rally track, use the transmission. If you do the latter, not sure why you would bother to do any maintenance, however.
If you keep a bike for the long haul, just down shift and use the brake. If you just keep it a few years and drive it like on a rally track, use the transmission. If you do the latter, not sure why you would bother to do any maintenance, however.
If I am wrong or doing something wrong.....please let me know. (for real)
#24
#25
#26
The only times that I use "engine braking" is on long declines to help keep my bike at a lower speed and to prevent excess wear on brake pads.
Like most of you, I "downshift" as my speed decreases to stay in an appropriate gear as I need for acceleration. My bike (as many others these days) has ABS, which takes much of the need for thinking out of the hands of the rider and only requires pressure on the brake pedal/lever to function as designed.
I remember back many years ago when an old guy was giving me some tips on driving a truck that had an unsynchronized, dual range transmission and air brakes. His saying has remained with me ever since: "Gears are for pulling and brakes are for stopping".
With an unsynchronized transmission it's imperative that you always have your transmission in gear, and with the engine RPM's matched with the speed of your vehicle, where all modern vehicles with manual transmissions are synchronized and can easily be shifted into most any gear at any speed within reason.
Like most of you, I "downshift" as my speed decreases to stay in an appropriate gear as I need for acceleration. My bike (as many others these days) has ABS, which takes much of the need for thinking out of the hands of the rider and only requires pressure on the brake pedal/lever to function as designed.
I remember back many years ago when an old guy was giving me some tips on driving a truck that had an unsynchronized, dual range transmission and air brakes. His saying has remained with me ever since: "Gears are for pulling and brakes are for stopping".
With an unsynchronized transmission it's imperative that you always have your transmission in gear, and with the engine RPM's matched with the speed of your vehicle, where all modern vehicles with manual transmissions are synchronized and can easily be shifted into most any gear at any speed within reason.
Last edited by 2AMGuy; 04-26-2017 at 10:41 AM.
#27
As for me, I downshift, but mostly for the latter reason. Still, I have no hard and fast rule, it depends on the situation.
#28
having abs brakes does not take anything away from the rider. in fact, the only time the abs should even be noticeable is if you have done something wrong. otherwise, you should brake the same as you always have.
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Russ103 (04-27-2017)
#29
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There's the issue of "We do what we practice."
In that, using engine braking often, buttresses a habit that could cause a problem should an emergency braking situation arise. It may cause a delay in brake application when the chips are down.
Also, there may be increased wear/stress on the primary chain adjustment device. This is why I never "rev" at a redlight. (Well, that, and it heats up the topend even more.)
This may be offset by the lack of wear in the clutch though.
Rev matching has been shown to reduce driveline course over time. (Except for that pesky primary chain adjustment device.)
In that, using engine braking often, buttresses a habit that could cause a problem should an emergency braking situation arise. It may cause a delay in brake application when the chips are down.
Also, there may be increased wear/stress on the primary chain adjustment device. This is why I never "rev" at a redlight. (Well, that, and it heats up the topend even more.)
This may be offset by the lack of wear in the clutch though.
Rev matching has been shown to reduce driveline course over time. (Except for that pesky primary chain adjustment device.)
#30