How do I tell a real rigid frame from a good fake?
#1
How do I tell a real rigid frame from a good fake?
I've been looking around recently and educating myself on getting a rigid frame bike. My understanding is 57 is the last year for this. Choices (on ebay) are few and far between but of those what Im finding is a lot of them have an aftermarket frame but boast how correct and original it is with a harley title. I get that the VIN is on the engine and thats how the title works but to me the frame is still a key piece that for my own satisfaction needs to be the real deal. I see that some have forged components like OEM so my concern is other than finding one thats been sitting in a barn since before I was born I wouldn't be certain im not buying just a real engine with a cobbled together thing that looks right. How can I tell? What markings would the frame have that most cant or wont duplicate?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
I would think the VIN on the frame neck would be the only way to tell and then a visual inspection of the entire frame to see if its been chopped and rewelded anywhere. The only reasons I can think of that a frame from pre '57 would be chopped would be to add length/height/rake to the neck at which point it would be fairly obvious or to accommodate a larger rear tire which would also be fairly obvious I think. Im interested to see where this thread goes!
#3
I would think the VIN on the frame neck would be the only way to tell and then a visual inspection of the entire frame to see if its been chopped and rewelded anywhere. The only reasons I can think of that a frame from pre '57 would be chopped would be to add length/height/rake to the neck at which point it would be fairly obvious or to accommodate a larger rear tire which would also be fairly obvious I think. Im interested to see where this thread goes!
#4
I am no expert.... with that said.
You either need to study the old frames/parts until you can spot the idiosyncrasies of the old frames/parts.
Or find someone that is an expert of that time frame and product you are looking for.
Lots of repro parts out there, I believe you can build a complete knuckle/pan from repro parts.
I have seen bikes that people thought were original and they were mix and match (not original).
I guess allot depends on what you are looking for (end product) and how much money you are spending.
If you are spending 30 grand +/- for what you think is an original bike I would highly recommend you have it inspected by someone that knows what they are looking at and will back it with authenticity documentation.
But that's me.
If you are buying a basket case for allot less money that's a different story.
With that said I would love to have a pan or knuckle project (basket case) to tinker with over the next 1 to 10 years (keep looking & dreaming).
You either need to study the old frames/parts until you can spot the idiosyncrasies of the old frames/parts.
Or find someone that is an expert of that time frame and product you are looking for.
Lots of repro parts out there, I believe you can build a complete knuckle/pan from repro parts.
I have seen bikes that people thought were original and they were mix and match (not original).
I guess allot depends on what you are looking for (end product) and how much money you are spending.
If you are spending 30 grand +/- for what you think is an original bike I would highly recommend you have it inspected by someone that knows what they are looking at and will back it with authenticity documentation.
But that's me.
If you are buying a basket case for allot less money that's a different story.
With that said I would love to have a pan or knuckle project (basket case) to tinker with over the next 1 to 10 years (keep looking & dreaming).
Last edited by GRWHD; 01-25-2018 at 07:31 AM.
#5
If you are serious about a vintage bike, purchase this book. Bruce Palmer has put it all together in his how to restore your Harley-Davidson. its not so much a how to book as it is the bible for parts identification, the differences between the years and has tons of high quality pictures. There are way to many Traps when getting a vintage Harley, Buy this book and arm yourself with knowledge.
[edit] Looks like I linked his first edition, There is a second that he recently did that is better yet. scroll down on the link and you will see it.
[edit] Looks like I linked his first edition, There is a second that he recently did that is better yet. scroll down on the link and you will see it.
Last edited by sixguns; 01-25-2018 at 07:51 AM.
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#6
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OEM frames will have casting codes on the frame similar to this one (from my 49 EL)
Palmers 2nd edition is a 2-volume set. Covers will look like these...
His information is the best out there. He's spent years researching.
A good frame will be hard to come by and will cost you some bank. Most ended up on the cutting block at some point so the options are very limited.
EDIT:. here is the link to Debbie Palmer (Bruce's wife). She was handling all the money and shipping side to get the books out. dppublications@verizon.net
Palmers 2nd edition is a 2-volume set. Covers will look like these...
His information is the best out there. He's spent years researching.
A good frame will be hard to come by and will cost you some bank. Most ended up on the cutting block at some point so the options are very limited.
EDIT:. here is the link to Debbie Palmer (Bruce's wife). She was handling all the money and shipping side to get the books out. dppublications@verizon.net
Last edited by panz4ever; 01-25-2018 at 10:34 AM.
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#7
The biggest, easy to spot, difference will be where the axle connects to the frame. The original had a big cast (or forged) piece that is fairly obvious. It also includes an additional hole on the back for where the original "center stand" used to attach, even though it actually went under the rear wheel, not the center. All of the aftermarket frames I have seen have a simpler arrangement that is easy to recognize.
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#8
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#9
If you are serious about a vintage bike, purchase this book. Bruce Palmer has put it all together in his how to restore your Harley-Davidson. its not so much a how to book as it is the bible for parts identification, the differences between the years and has tons of high quality pictures. There are way to many Traps when getting a vintage Harley, Buy this book and arm yourself with knowledge. https://www.amazon.com/Restore-Your-.../dp/0879389346
[edit] Looks like I linked his first edition, There is a second that he recently did that is better yet. scroll down on the link and you will see it.
[edit] Looks like I linked his first edition, There is a second that he recently did that is better yet. scroll down on the link and you will see it.
OEM frames will have casting codes on the frame similar to this one (from my 49 EL)
Palmers 2nd edition is a 2-volume set. Covers will look like these...
His information is the best out there. He's spent years researching.
A good frame will be hard to come by and will cost you some bank. Most ended up on the cutting block at some point so the options are very limited.
EDIT:. here is the link to Debbie Palmer (Bruce's wife). She was handling all the money and shipping side to get the books out. dppublications@verizon.net
Palmers 2nd edition is a 2-volume set. Covers will look like these...
His information is the best out there. He's spent years researching.
A good frame will be hard to come by and will cost you some bank. Most ended up on the cutting block at some point so the options are very limited.
EDIT:. here is the link to Debbie Palmer (Bruce's wife). She was handling all the money and shipping side to get the books out. dppublications@verizon.net
#10
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The biggest, easy to spot, difference will be where the axle connects to the frame. The original had a big cast (or forged) piece that is fairly obvious. It also includes an additional hole on the back for where the original "center stand" used to attach, even though it actually went under the rear wheel, not the center. All of the aftermarket frames I have seen have a simpler arrangement that is easy to recognize.
If you are looking for an original frame you need to see it in an unpainted condition. So far I haven't come across anyone that duplicates the original forging/casting marks. Suppose it's just a matter of time though....
Last edited by panz4ever; 01-26-2018 at 01:03 AM.
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