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What am I missing?? 117 build

 
  #21  
Old 11-10-2018, 07:05 PM
Tattooed Mick
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Originally Posted by Kingglide549 View Post
You should ask for the engine Spec Sheet' so you know what they set the squish at, CC at, the everything at, What your actual CR is.
Piton weights,blah blah.
balance at (percentage where )
This will be NP if they do engines all the time.
I just dont trust most shops.
If they put in low drag rings the spec sheet will say what the pull is .
waiting on the spec sheet to come Monday. Did confirm the S&S rings used are low drag/ low tension rings.

thank you for the comment. One thing I completely overlooked, and exactly the purpose of ny thread.
 
  #22  
Old 11-10-2018, 07:09 PM
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Posted twice. Deleted
 

Last edited by Tattooed Mick; 11-10-2018 at 07:17 PM.
  #23  
Old 11-10-2018, 07:12 PM
Tattooed Mick
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Originally Posted by joe40x View Post
Set them and forget them. Sort of like gear driven cams. Ask the long term, professional builders and see what they recommend. Look at any tappet noise oriented thread and see what the solution was.
Talked to Scott Hakins from S&S. He laughed and said he would keep a set on hand. When I couldn't take it anymore to call him and he will overnight them to me. I had no idea the Feuling tappets were so loud.
 
  #24  
Old 11-10-2018, 07:30 PM
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Compression releases?
(or maybe a case of starter motors, so you can change monthly).
 
  #25  
Old 11-11-2018, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Tattooed Mick View Post
Hey all. Getting ready to complete my install and wanted to lean on the experience here to help me see what I have overlooked.

Bike started out as a 2014 Road King. Love this bike. Decided to convert it to a Street Glide when I found a screaming deal at an insurance auction. Frame was cracked and bent so they totaled it out. Everything else was 100%.
4015 miles on the bike. So I stripped all the good stuff and am selling whatever's left that I don't need.

Had the plastics and tank painted to match. Ran the FLHX wiring harness and began building the motor. Am going to swap the front end and bolt up the ABS pump and module. Touchscreen radio connected to the Wild Boar SG audio system already installed.

What I've done so far:
S&S 117 big bore kit
Darkhorse bottom end including:
  • Upgrade all bearings - Balance/Blueprint lower end and assemble complete
  • 4.375" stroke flywheel set 07-later
  • Centerless ground 1.6710" 2-hole crankpin
  • Darkhorse Rod-roller bearing Set .2164"
  • TC Competition H-beam Connecting Rod Set
  • Balance new crankshaft assembly
  • Darkhorse pro-plug
  • Weld crankpin
  • Race,Inr,R Main Brg,Pkgd,
  • Pinion Clip
  • Man O' War 4-3/8" Crankshaft
  • Assemble *Balanced & Bleprinted with Competition Rod
  • TWIN CAM TIMKEN BEARING CONVERSION UPGRADE A -MODEL
  • Case boring to 4.322" x 1.545" with step to 4.162 x 2.250"
  • HBR Main Timken Bearing
  • Bearing Roller
  • DH SPROCKET SHAFT SPACER
  • Motor Sprocket Shaft Seal
  • JET PISTON ASSY WITH O-RING
  • Cam Bearing 06 Dyna, 07-08BT
  • THRU-BOLT KIT TC BIG BORE CASES
  • Bearing Retaining Plate Screw

Revolution Performance Monster head package:
  • CNC port work
  • CNC valve job with guides and intake seats
  • New 2.000" intake valves
  • New 1.630" exhaust valves
  • New .675 max lift springs
  • New valve guide seals
  • TP Engineering Roller Rockers
S&S Gear Drive Cam kit with Andrews 67HG's
Feuling roller tappets
S&S adjustable pushrods
Evolution Industries compensator eliminator
Baker 1.5" oil pan
Baker Primary Chain Tensioner
Throttle Hog 58mm throttle body
Fueling 5.3 g/s injectors
Trask 58mm a.c.
D&D Boarzilla
Barnett Scorpion Lock-up Clutch & Basket

and that's it... so please, help me punch holes in this build. What am I forgetting?? What did I overlook??

Maybe consider a HPI 62-64MM throttle body
 
  #26  
Old 11-11-2018, 10:07 AM
Tattooed Mick
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Originally Posted by DandSPro View Post



Maybe consider a HPI 62-64MM throttle body
went with the S&S Throttle Hog 58mm throttle body and Trask AC for now
 
  #27  
Old 11-11-2018, 10:09 AM
Tattooed Mick
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Originally Posted by RHPAW View Post
Compression releases?
(or maybe a case of starter motors, so you can change monthly).
cams are Ez Start. Didnt think I would need secondary CR's with them, but if so, the ACR's are still installed- should be good, No?
 
  #28  
Old 11-17-2018, 06:09 PM
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Hello . I have a 2016 cvo Street Glide and thinking going with the 117 kit. Is this a good choice or should I go another route. Thx
 
  #29  
Old 11-17-2018, 10:43 PM
Tattooed Mick
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Originally Posted by blue flames View Post
Hello . I have a 2016 cvo Street Glide and thinking going with the 117 kit. Is this a good choice or should I go another route. Thx
I chose the 117 because I wanted a torque build, reliability, and to run on pump gas. You're highly unlikely to pull 165 horses out of a 117. Based on the milestones that were important to me, (140+ 'lbs, 130+ hp, no heat issues, compression numbers allowing me to run pump fuel and a reliable motor for the numerous cross country rides I make yearly) the 117 was the best fit.

In all fairness, I could have saved a fortune by going with a crate 124, but I wanted to build my own.
 
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  #30  
Old 11-17-2018, 11:07 PM
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What cams did you go with
 

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