Humidity
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#5
#6
Gas heat = humidity
Electric heat = not so much
I've got concrete block (inside) and brick (outside). The walls are about a foot thick. When it gets below zero, I start to see a little frost on the entry door ****, and a touch forming on the walls. That's with natural gas heat.
I actually have a ceiling with an insulated attic above, which helps minimize the hot/cold condensation as well.
Electric heat = not so much
I've got concrete block (inside) and brick (outside). The walls are about a foot thick. When it gets below zero, I start to see a little frost on the entry door ****, and a touch forming on the walls. That's with natural gas heat.
I actually have a ceiling with an insulated attic above, which helps minimize the hot/cold condensation as well.
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JOHNNYFLHR (11-29-2018)
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#8
This may seem over the top, but it would actually be the ideal solution. I did this for my wood workshop I built when I lived in NC.
Install a new radient heat rasied (about 1 1/2") concrete floor throughout the garage. You will need a short ramp inside at the door or if you adjust the door track the ramp could be outside.
Heat the radiant heat liquid (water or water/glycol solution) with an heat exchanger from your HVAC unit or from your hot water heater.
The radient heat solution needs to be heated to only about 120 degrees F. The radient heat circulator pump should be controlled by a thermostat that can be set very low (50 degrees).
The temp in the garage can be kept very low until you need to work in the garage. Raise the temp to 60 or 65 and you will have a good comfortable work space...mainly because your feet will be warm.
The space will be warm and dry during the heating season. You will only need the dehumidifier in the summer when the humidity is high unless you also want to add a AC unit for the garage.
This is a very, repeat very, cost effective way to heat a space like a garage that does not need to be kept very warm all the time. Propane for a space heater will cost you a lot more, so payback for the installation should be fairly quick.
Except for placing and floating the concrete, I would consider this a DIY project. But if it isn't for you, check out the cost with some Radient heat contractors.
There are also electric radient heat mats that can be installed under a tile floor, but their operating cost is much higher.
Install a new radient heat rasied (about 1 1/2") concrete floor throughout the garage. You will need a short ramp inside at the door or if you adjust the door track the ramp could be outside.
Heat the radiant heat liquid (water or water/glycol solution) with an heat exchanger from your HVAC unit or from your hot water heater.
The radient heat solution needs to be heated to only about 120 degrees F. The radient heat circulator pump should be controlled by a thermostat that can be set very low (50 degrees).
The temp in the garage can be kept very low until you need to work in the garage. Raise the temp to 60 or 65 and you will have a good comfortable work space...mainly because your feet will be warm.
The space will be warm and dry during the heating season. You will only need the dehumidifier in the summer when the humidity is high unless you also want to add a AC unit for the garage.
This is a very, repeat very, cost effective way to heat a space like a garage that does not need to be kept very warm all the time. Propane for a space heater will cost you a lot more, so payback for the installation should be fairly quick.
Except for placing and floating the concrete, I would consider this a DIY project. But if it isn't for you, check out the cost with some Radient heat contractors.
There are also electric radient heat mats that can be installed under a tile floor, but their operating cost is much higher.
#10