Replacing brake pads
#1
#3
I can't say that I've ever noticed a difference in pressure to retract caliper pistons with the master cylinder cover on or off. It's not really a true sealed system. When I replace brake pads on ANYTHING I do these things:
Clean the pistons while they are extended; I use a shoestring to get to the part of the piston at the top of the caliper.
Put a hose on the bleeder valve and crack it open, seat the pistons and then close it. That does a few things. One, it makes it one heck of a lot easier to seat the pistons. Two, it allows me to feel excess resistance of the pistons without being fooled by fluid pressure. Three, it removes the fluid that has been exposed to the highest heat in the system.
After that, I top up the master cylinder, bleed the caliper of any air (usually there is none), top up again and test ride after seating the pads with the lever or pedal.
It takes less time to do something right than it does to half azz it and do it twice. With something like brakes, you may not get a second chance.
Clean the pistons while they are extended; I use a shoestring to get to the part of the piston at the top of the caliper.
Put a hose on the bleeder valve and crack it open, seat the pistons and then close it. That does a few things. One, it makes it one heck of a lot easier to seat the pistons. Two, it allows me to feel excess resistance of the pistons without being fooled by fluid pressure. Three, it removes the fluid that has been exposed to the highest heat in the system.
After that, I top up the master cylinder, bleed the caliper of any air (usually there is none), top up again and test ride after seating the pads with the lever or pedal.
It takes less time to do something right than it does to half azz it and do it twice. With something like brakes, you may not get a second chance.
Last edited by Campy Roadie; 12-15-2018 at 05:19 AM.
The following 3 users liked this post by Campy Roadie:
#4
#6
Depends! If as your old pads became worn you added fluid to the master cylinder then manually reseating the pistons prior to replacing the old pads will be more difficult. U can't compress a liquid.
Probably a good idea to leave the master cylinder open while ur trying to reseat the pistons. Ensure that any adjacent paintwork is protected.
Probably a good idea to leave the master cylinder open while ur trying to reseat the pistons. Ensure that any adjacent paintwork is protected.
#8
The following 2 users liked this post by Cogswell:
Campy Roadie (12-15-2018),
Cullmanco (12-15-2018)
#10
I don't remove the covers to change the brake pads, I just loosen em a bit. Once the pistons are cleaned, reset and new pads installed I remove the covers. Furthermore, I don't ever replace pads without flushing the brake fluid. It's just to cheap and quick not to do so, especially using a Mity-Vac vacuum pump. I can nearly change both front caliper fluid faster than checking tire pressure.
I use a clean syringe to add brake fluid to MC which avoids any spills.
On a side note, I have yet to find an easy way to remove the rear caliper from rotor without using the affixed rotor to press the old pads against to reset the pistons a fraction of the way. Therefore, cleaning the entire piston surface is impossible. Any pointers?
I use a clean syringe to add brake fluid to MC which avoids any spills.
On a side note, I have yet to find an easy way to remove the rear caliper from rotor without using the affixed rotor to press the old pads against to reset the pistons a fraction of the way. Therefore, cleaning the entire piston surface is impossible. Any pointers?
The following users liked this post:
Cullmanco (12-15-2018)