Motivation and cost to switch from FI to carbs?
#11
EFI to carb swap can be done. How much it will cost ya depends on the year and model HD. Twin Cam - OEM CV-40 carb with manifold (ebay$150) and a Thunder Heart Stand Alone Ignition system (ebay $325.) Sportsters - same as Big Twins BUT you will also need to change the Cylinder Heads. The intake ports from EFI will NOT work with a carb intake manifold. Now here's the Good and Bad news. GOOD - increased torque, lower idle (won't sound like a sewing machine on steroids.) ANY engine modifications, a simple $3 jet change or idle mix screw adjustment. The BAD - you WILL throw damn near every Error Code. Your CHECK ENGINE lite will always be on and when you take it for your yearly inspection, will be cause for failing the Safety Inspection. There's 2 ways around this, EFI bikes use an ION Sensing ignition coil and some non OEM spark plugs will throw the CE light on. That happened to me, so I disabled the LED for the CE light. Got over 60,000 miles on my EFI to CV-40 conversion. Cammed it and did a 105" big bore, only took an idle mixture adjustment, not a $400 + "tuner.
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Kreitoc (01-01-2019)
#12
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I'm not saying this is probably true for all bikes in comparison, but it was/is for ME, so I guess it's just my humble opinion and nothing concrete to say carb'd is 'better' than FI.
Other than that, I agree with it being not very cost effective and the whole elctronics thing will be probably a nightmare to figure out.
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#13
What a load of EFI holier-than-thou bullshit. Beware the mis-information in some of the above posts.
CV (constant velocity) carbs are fine at elevation. Once dialed in, they are dead reliable and virtually maintenance free.
I've been up to 14000 feet numerous times without issue, and have gone 100000 miles with minimal maintenance.
EFI requires dyno to dial in, not something that can be done at home, and is reliant on the electrical system to function. Carbed fuel delivery stands alone.
Your preference for one or the other depends on your expectations.
CV (constant velocity) carbs are fine at elevation. Once dialed in, they are dead reliable and virtually maintenance free.
I've been up to 14000 feet numerous times without issue, and have gone 100000 miles with minimal maintenance.
EFI requires dyno to dial in, not something that can be done at home, and is reliant on the electrical system to function. Carbed fuel delivery stands alone.
Your preference for one or the other depends on your expectations.
#14
The following 2 users liked this post by RHPAW:
Greezey Rider (12-31-2018),
tar_snake (12-31-2018)
#15
I always find it hilarious that on this board...A person asks a question, and most of the replies are people telling him no to do it rather than answering the question...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Twin...hsZV:rk:5:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Twin...hsZV:rk:5:pf:0
The following 5 users liked this post by Tom84FXST:
Greezey Rider (12-31-2018),
kkiley (01-02-2019),
Kreitoc (01-01-2019),
Markman66 (01-02-2019),
tar_snake (12-31-2018)
#16
Most people I've seen go that route do so because the old Magneti Marelli (MM) fuel injection systems stopped being made in '02 and parts are difficult to find, as well as tuning them can be a challenge. It's generally less expensive to convert back to carbs that sell your bike and buy another, and certainly less painful. Tom's got you link to pricing, but as to labor - this is something you'd want to do yourself. If you have a reasonable tool set and are capable of following instructions and have patience, you should be able to do this.
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Lakerat (12-31-2018)
#17
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#19
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Originally Posted by tar_snake
I'm not saying this is probably true for all bikes in comparison, but it was/is for ME, so I guess it's just my humble opinion and nothing concrete to say carb'd is 'better' than FI.
Other than that, I agree with it being not very cost effective and the whole elctronics thing will be probably a nightmare to figure out.
Other than that, I agree with it being not very cost effective and the whole elctronics thing will be probably a nightmare to figure out.
With FI, there are no parts that erode because the ethyl alcohol coated aluminum is not within a presence of oxygen. (Oxygen is required to start the errosion process.)
Next week, we chat about how methylene chloride erodes aluminum! ????
#20
Carb jets (jet needles in particular) erode fairly quickly due to the introduction of ethyl alcohol that is now present in the vast majority of motor fuels. Once this happens, "rideability/durability" goes out the perverbial window. I know of this, personally.
With FI, there are no parts that erode because the ethyl alcohol coated aluminum is not within a presence of oxygen. (Oxygen is required to start the errosion process.)
Next week, we chat about how methylene chloride erodes aluminum! ????
With FI, there are no parts that erode because the ethyl alcohol coated aluminum is not within a presence of oxygen. (Oxygen is required to start the errosion process.)
Next week, we chat about how methylene chloride erodes aluminum! ????