There is a conversion chart in the back of the service manual to help.

 

A note of caution to those of you who are new to using a torque wrench:
Please make sure to verify if torque needed /specified is in inch pounds or foot pounds. They are different and it does make a HUGE difference. If you use the wrong one, you will either leave it too loose or so tight that you could break the fastener or strip the threads.

I concur on recommending the Harbor Freight line of torque wrenches. As a matter of fact, they have just come out with a professional line of them that is even better, albeit more expensive, than their basic torque wrench, which already have high marks/reviews for accuracy and reliability. They also carry a digital torque tool that can be added to any wrench to fasten accurately.

I myself use an old school beam torque wrench to periodically test my click-type torque wrenches. It works well for the type of shade-tree mechanical work that I do.

 

Very good to know

 

Thank you to all who answered my post. Alot of helpful info. Got the Rocker Boxes all put back together now. Have a few other things Im going to do while I've got the tank off then the true test. Fire it up. Fingers crossed this rookie did everything right. Lol

Also installing a quick-disconnect in my fuel cross-over line. Hopefully that will make it a bit cleaner next time I pull my tank.

 

When I got my bike and started to look at the various torque settings I went and purchased a 1/4" drive and a 3/8" drive torque wrench to cover the very low to mid range settings.

By have a low weight torque wrench means I am using its mid range setting to hopefully get a more accurate setting as someone has already pointed out.

I use Nm to eliminate any confusion between in-lbs and ft-lbs settings. As an example doing a primary oil change sees me do the derby cover up to 10Nm and the drain plug 20Nm, not 84 in-lbs and 14 ft-lbs respectively.

 

Couple of suggestions. First for torque wrenches.... always crank the micrometer setting back to zero when done. Don't forget to check local supply houses... those who supply machine shops or manufacturers... they often have tools that are a couple steps above harbor freight and less than Snap-On or Mac. I got an inch pound on sale for less than $50.
Get a three ring binder and record all your repairs, maintenance, services... and accessories. This will be good info to refer back to and keep track of things. I also have plastic sleeves I stick accessories instructions in.

 

Another torque wrench tip... use common sense

There are 2.7 million twisted off derby cover screws that the user kept waiting to hear that "CLICK"



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I've never twisted one off, but I'm not waiting to hear that "CLICK".

 

I was always taught to run the torque setting down to the lowest setting on the wrench for storage. I've only seen it once but I have seen the spring come loose from running it down "all the way".

 

That is what Spartanden and I referred to 0 = Zero = Unloaded.