Trailer suitable for hauling bike?
#1
Trailer suitable for hauling bike?
Thinking really hard about buying a low-cost trailer to haul my bike. Riding to Branson, MO in late March and to SW FL in April is iffy weather-wise from here in northeast IN. Found a new AMO trailer for $825 locally. 5/10" wood bed, 12" tires, rated for 2000 lbs, spring suspension, 12" side rails, mesh gate; 2" ball setup. What do you think?
#2
The following 2 users liked this post by Screamin beagle:
Steve Sportster (02-27-2019),
URGE (03-05-2019)
The following users liked this post:
Steve Sportster (02-27-2019)
#4
The following users liked this post:
Steve Sportster (02-27-2019)
#5
#6
A spare tire, a lug wrench and a jack or review if your vehicle jack would work.
An extra bearing kit is a great idea.
A spare electrical line would be a good idea too just in case the wiring gets damaged near ball mount.
So many trailers on the road with no spare tire or lug wrench.
Would suck to leave trailer on side of road with bike loaded to then go get stuff.
Confirm attachment of board to frame is strong enough.
Get the Harbor freight motorcycle stand/wheel chock and order some good tie down ratchets with clips on the hooks hooks. Something like Powertye straps.
The Powertye stuff brings a bag that makes for good organization.
Make a plate or use over sized washers for under wood in order to mount the stand/wheel chock.
Ramp may not have correct angle but that can be resolved with a portable 2 x 6 inch board placed along ramp edge in order to raise lip touching road (reduce ramp angle).
* Remember security deactivation on bike and general security concerns.
Forks will be straight and unlocked so use multiple security measures like a disc lock or two with tape so it does not rattle against rotor, a cable with lock, lock on gate/ramp, lock on hitch pin & trailer chain, trailer coupler lock...remember ball nut can be unbolted and placed on another mount defeating most of those measures other than tow chain locked to solid hitch...maybe some red threadlocker for ball if you plan to use same mount and ball each time.
You want to slow the people down.
An extra bearing kit is a great idea.
A spare electrical line would be a good idea too just in case the wiring gets damaged near ball mount.
So many trailers on the road with no spare tire or lug wrench.
Would suck to leave trailer on side of road with bike loaded to then go get stuff.
Confirm attachment of board to frame is strong enough.
Get the Harbor freight motorcycle stand/wheel chock and order some good tie down ratchets with clips on the hooks hooks. Something like Powertye straps.
The Powertye stuff brings a bag that makes for good organization.
Make a plate or use over sized washers for under wood in order to mount the stand/wheel chock.
Ramp may not have correct angle but that can be resolved with a portable 2 x 6 inch board placed along ramp edge in order to raise lip touching road (reduce ramp angle).
* Remember security deactivation on bike and general security concerns.
Forks will be straight and unlocked so use multiple security measures like a disc lock or two with tape so it does not rattle against rotor, a cable with lock, lock on gate/ramp, lock on hitch pin & trailer chain, trailer coupler lock...remember ball nut can be unbolted and placed on another mount defeating most of those measures other than tow chain locked to solid hitch...maybe some red threadlocker for ball if you plan to use same mount and ball each time.
You want to slow the people down.
The following users liked this post:
Steve Sportster (02-27-2019)
#8
The following users liked this post:
Steve Sportster (02-27-2019)
#9
The following users liked this post:
Steve Sportster (02-27-2019)
#10
I have a similar trailer, 6 x 12, that I added a Harbor Freight wheel chock to, and added some tie down points for the rear end.
I bought a set of "tank straps" off amazon for the front and attach them to the lower forks where the fender bolts to them..
I put some short plywood walls on the sides, and a front wall not quite as tall as the bed of my truck.
Works perfect.
If you are going to carry extra bearings, you might consider buying an extra hub, already assembled with the bearings in it.
It is a pain to try to remove old bearings and races from a hub, especially while on the road.
I bought a set of "tank straps" off amazon for the front and attach them to the lower forks where the fender bolts to them..
I put some short plywood walls on the sides, and a front wall not quite as tall as the bed of my truck.
Works perfect.
If you are going to carry extra bearings, you might consider buying an extra hub, already assembled with the bearings in it.
It is a pain to try to remove old bearings and races from a hub, especially while on the road.
The following 3 users liked this post by LJLKRL05: