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-   -   Back on the road, then this . . . (https://www.hdforums.com/forum/general-harley-davidson-chat/1281681-back-on-the-road-then-this.html)

markfsanderson 04-28-2019 09:15 PM

Back on the road, then this . . .
 
Greetings!
Long time since I posted. I've posted this in General, assuming that since this pretty generic it should fit? If not, then please move it to the appropriate forum. I have a 2015 Ultra Ltd with a stage one that I installed myself. With life getting in the way, I put my motorcycle up for about a year. Just recently I checked the tires, fluids and etc and rode to the dealership. Had them replace the brake and clutch fluid w/flush and give the bike good checkout etc. Since the bike didn't run for a year, I thought that replacing fluids all 3 holes would be wise - even though I use high quality synthetics. Oil and Transmission went fine - now (which I almost didn't do) on to the Primary/chain case. I was able to drain the chain case and then unscrewed the first 4 of 5 screws on the clutch inspection cover and on the fifth disaster struck. The T25 skipped and somehow that head is screwed up where I cannot loosen it but I can tighten it. I'm using craftsman tools, which have served me well in the past. I'm not sure how I could of screwed this up, but I did. Or maybe the dealership did? Not sure. The one that screwed up is in approximately the 7 o'clock position. I've puzzled over this for more than an hour and have come up with some ways around this problem, none of them good. I have a manual, but I'm trying to keep the solution simple. I need advice on the best way to handle this:
  1. Remove the chain case cover and attempt to remove the t25 from the access plate from the back end. I've never removed this one before, not sure if I need gaskets . . . can I reuse the gasket at least temporarily? Does the nut extend into the chain case in such a fashion that can back it out easily?
  2. Use a Ryobi nut/screw removal tool. I've never used one of these before. These are the ones where you drill a small hole into the ruined nut, and then insert this tool which will grip the walls of the drilled bold and then allows you to back it out. Any tips on using these tools? Is there any danger to the chain case cover using this tool?
  3. Give up, call a wrecker and have the bike towed in and repaired. Boo. I don't want to do this but I will if I must.
Oh, and in this condition with no chain case fluid I can I start the bike and power it ~25 feet into the garage without damage?

Any other choices that I'm not mentioning here?

Thanks In Advance . . . any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Mark Sanderson

IArider1 04-28-2019 09:31 PM

Im assuming your talking about the derby cover. Derby cover screws into the outer primary, sounds like its stripped. The right thing to do in my mind is to buy a new outer and derby cover.

ScottinAZ 04-28-2019 09:32 PM

All is not lost. First, unless something has changed, those are T27 torx not T25. You may get lucky and have enough meat to tap a T27 in there and get it out. Second, for 25 feet, it wont hurt without fluid. Its splash lubed, so takes minimal fluid anyways. There is enough residual to go that far. Other option is to drill off the head, and attack the rest with vice grips. Once pressure is removed from the body, they normally cooperate. You should change gaskets when disrupting them. Cheap insurance against leaks. Hope this helps

Screamin beagle 04-28-2019 09:43 PM

Yup definitely t27 on those bolts, very common mistake and of course the t27 is not included in alot of torx sets. Almost makes ya think harley had something to do with that lol. Pretty easy to drill off the head and then replace them all with Allen head bolts.

markfsanderson 04-28-2019 10:01 PM

Wow! T27? Sheesh . . . Ok, now I'm off to find a T27 and see if I can salvage that cover first . . . where the heck can I find a T27? Hmm . . .

IdahoHacker 04-28-2019 10:43 PM

My Torx sets all have a 27. You might buy two, to use one as a "sacrificial" one, meaning, if it still doesn't want to bite, take a small hammer and tap it into the end of the bolt. Then try to turn it out. If it works, great! Even if you can't get it back out, it was the "spare."

ScottinAZ 04-28-2019 11:47 PM


Originally Posted by markfsanderson (Post 18218047)
Wow! T27? Sheesh . . . Ok, now I'm off to find a T27 and see if I can salvage that cover first . . . where the heck can I find a T27? Hmm . . .

The cheap assed harbor freight sets have a T27 in them

TnFatboy 04-29-2019 12:53 AM

I have one of those cheap sets from HB. It’s the big set also comes with the security torx bits with the hole in them. Best ten bucks I’ve ever spent
Op: since you only have one bolt left holding the cover you might be able to spin it( the cover) and break the other bolt loose like that. Or you might take a small sharp chisel and hit the head of the bolt counter clock & break it loose that way(carefully). I get lucky sometimes doing this. Good luck
https://www.harborfreight.com/100-pc...ase-62657.html

Phil13 04-29-2019 01:31 AM

Save lots of potential future aggravation by slapping yourself every time you think of buying something with 'Ryobi' on it and put what you do have in the bin. Ryobi really is cheap and nasty cr*p. As others have said, if the T27 bit lightly tapped into the screw doesn't work, drill the head off and remove the screw shank with vice grips.

dawg 04-29-2019 06:01 AM

Might I add that a hand impact is a good tool to have (using the correct size bit of course) to remove stubborn bolts such as these without stripping. As well, some folks swap out the torx for Allen heads.


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