I always like to look back on situations after they've happened and see if there's anything I could learn from.

Last weekend, I was coming off the highway and as I hit the off ramp, my throttle cable snapped. After about 45 minutes of trying to come up with a roadside fix to get it home, I realized I was stuck and needed a tow. No buddies to call with a trailer. Dealership doesn't have that kind of service. So tow truck it is. Tow truck company is small and told me that their flatbed was in the shop and could only use a regular truck. No choice so I said ok.

Guy got there and between us this is what we ended up with. This just shows where we strapped it to get it in the air. Before we headed out, he lowered it to the "wheel thingys" and strapped the tires down to that. Only place to tow was to the local dealership and all went according to place. My question on this part is .... is there any place other than where we strapped it to lift it that would have been better? Was there another option there that I just wasn't seeing?

After this picture, I have another question.



So the next day, I decided that I could replace my own throttle cables and rented a trailer to go get her. Got there and got it in the trailer and after that the guys at the dealership were prohibited from doing anything else so I had to strap it down on my own. So, did I do this correctly? It didn't shift or anything but that doesn't mean I did it correctly. Again, next time I have to trailer this, is there anything I can do differently to make this safer? Did I do ok?

 

Personally, I prefer to strap it in such a way as to not compress the suspension. That allows the bikes suspension to work during the tow. Top of the fork lower about where the fender bolts are (I had a padded loop for this) and to the swing arm at the rear.

There's nothing wrong with the way you have tied down for a short trip. However, if you were to hit a big enough bump to hit the suspension hard enough to unload the tie-downs, there is the possibility for then to come off.

If you tie it down hard enough to bottom out the suspension, then the bike is reliant on the trailer suspension.


Edit: I love that little fly screen you have on that. Can you tell me who makes that or where you got it?

 

Mike,

I assume you're referring to the chrome piece right aft of the headlight? It was on the bike when I bought it and if I'm not mistaken, it's something that you could pickup directly from HD. Not positive on that so don't quote me

 

When trailering, I’ve had better luck strapping the rear of the bike as low as possible, I probably would have gone with your saddlebag mounts.

The ridges in the trailer floor help, but when the back straps are too high the rear wheel can slide side-to-side on a good bounce. That can put the bike in a weird lean that slowly gets worse with every bump. That can unload a strap, and then there's trouble.

 

The 2004-2005 "Road King Custom" came with those from the factory, as well as soft saddlebags. It's a good look!

 

Had a buddy whose throttle cable snapped in the middle of nowhere. I took the return cable and put it on the throttle side. The carb had a spring in it, so it operated normally until we could get to the dealer for a new cable.
(I'd get rid of that get=back whip too, before it knocks you out.)

 

I had a throttle cable break while on a trip on a 1998 road king classic fuel injected.
Bike has two throttle cables.
You should be able to see them under the throttle switch/grip area unless someone never put one after handle bar change.
One pull cable and the other a push (return) cable.
I had tools in the bags so i was able to open the hand grip side and switch cable around.
Then took off air cleaner and backing plate to do the same switch around of throttle cables at throttle body.
As an emergency procedure with limited tools someone could force idle speed up at throttle body and control speed with clutch but that requires some skill.

Most times the cable breaks at ball..another possible temporary road side fix is to put maximum slack in cable and trim frayed end then use a pin lock (the part folks use to lock pins) to their vest or whatever.. the Pin lock can be locked to cable end and jammed in throttle grip hole and then slack removed from adjuster...
Problem is some folks have the pin but do not carry the tiny allen wrench used on pin locks.
But if it happens at a rally then a vendor will be probably selling the little pack of pin locks with tiny allen wrench.

For towing i use Powertye brand straps.
A set of 4.
The straps have the extra piece on hooks so that hook can not disconnect.
If unavailable consider use of thick heavy duty zipties or duck tape or whatever to help reduce hook bounce off.
Two of the Powertye straps in the set have the extra loop so strap can hook to itself.
One end of strap to trailer and the other end hooks to strap itself after pass through triple tree.
These straps also have the fuzzy protector sleeve.
The other two are normal straps with the hook on each end.
Using the straps that can hook to themselves the strap is passed over triple triple from behind on each side and I compress shocks passed the midway point.
The fuzzy sleeve protects chrome beer cans under nacelle.
The other two straps are used one on each side over passenger floor board mount with both hooks attaching to trailer..
Again compress about midway.
Strap ends are rolled and secured with velco twice near ratchet to reduce/prevent strap slippage .

The high strap area at triple tree is a strong solid area and creates a larger "V" at the front and helps to keep bike centered.
You MUST be careful to avoid damage to brake line and electrical wires in that triple tree area.
So look closely at wire locations.

The rear straps are basically to keep rear end from bouncing left and right.

Rear straps would ideally be pulling forward or left and right since bike is pushed against trailer front wall chock.

I would avoid handlebars as a mounting point as it is not a strong point.

The are many ways to tow and different folks have different methods.
In the end you just want to try to be safe and avoid a fall over.

There is a big difference between emergency towing across town and a planned towing of a dozen or more hours.
Sometimes you just have to work with what you have on hand at that moment.

Your shift linkage joints should be reviewed for change out to heim joints before they break.

 

actually, that is the stock flyscreen on the road king custom, sold from 2004 to 2007. it might look kinda cool, but I can tell you from experience that it directs wind right straight into your face. if you did want to replace it, you need the handlebar riser cover and the chrome spear trim on the top of the headlight.

 

Your shift linkage joints should be reviewed for change out to heim joints before they break.[/QUOTE]


Yes sir. I tell all riders this also.

 

I think you did great for your emergency two situation.

Front strap appears to go under the triple tree and is supported by the frame's head, yes?
Rear strap is obvious, supported by the chrome frame extensions.
The then entire bike (tires) is lowered onto the support bar of the tow truck to take weight off the straps.

Again I thought you did well for the situation.

My question for the OP:
Was there any damage from the tow truck straps?
Anything in hindsight you'd set up for the towing different?

On the trailer and tie downs.....other co-members have more experience in this area than me.