How many miles on a evo 1340 before rebuild
 

Hello i have a 93fxdwg that i bought last year with 27000 miles and i put 7000 more on it last year so its got 34,000 now, it still runs great and no leaks or no gasket leaks ,its still stock never been cracked open,should i crack it open and replace something before its too late ,is it ticking time bomb or should it be alright for more .

I had a '86 FLHTC Classic that I put over 100K on before I rebuilt it. ...........If it were mine, I would keep it well serviced and just ride it!:)

Cool good to know thanks

Not sure if your bike is effected by bad bearings for the cam. some are known to be junk and the fix is a switch to a torrington inner bearing. look into this! Otherwise, if it aint broke, dont fix it!!

they go long time...........................around 100,000 they start to get cooked. I had a friend who just redid has after about 80,000 hard miles and 2,500 later its like brand new..The bike still ran great even after 80,000 hard miles but he gos far and wanted a over haul. IMO the evos the best thing harley ever made or will make!! dont sell that bike in about 5 years evo bikes are going to be the bikes to have.

I feel it coming I think in a few short years evo bikes softails,FXRs,WGs are going to be the bikes to have. I saw a 1990 evo softail that was in mint shape at a bike show a few mons ago with a ton of people around it. Theres nothing like the 90s harleys.....I love my 2003 but they dont have the feel the evo does.

My dads 90 FXR has over 80k and no rebuild. When the rocker cover gaskets seeped he changed them, but that was it. He's had it new since 90 and still runs and pulls strong.

Just be sure and clean the screen that filters the oil before the lifters. Too many people forget to clean the screen.

were is this screen

It is well documented that well maintained,properly treated Evo's will easily eclipse the 100k number.Have fun.

A guy at work has an EVO Ultra with 100,000 on it. Still runs like new.

thanks for all the replys ,great to know my bike can go for a while.it runs great and is very clean,no drips ,no seepage around the base gaskets nothin.i was just thinken about rebuilding it while there is a foot of snow on the ground and a ton of salt on the roads.but now i will buy other goodies instead.like 20in apes new controls and braided lines and new grips .going to order on jp cycles right now ...i will post some pics soon....

And when that days comes...I'll be ready for it:)

I would replace the lifters a soon as you can. My '93 was running fine until the wheel bearings on lifter blew apart. got munched up and sent thru the motor.I think it was due to stress from the angle of the push rods. Had just shy of 50k on it. Otherwise ran fine ,no leaks.,,

Cat Bikes
 

I bet they won't get that kind of milage from the Cat bikes, 2010 and beyond. The EPA not only killed our performance they just killed our extended service life. The big touring bikes are just to damn hot to turn in those kind of numbers!:(

I miss my evo, sold it with 60k, had to redo the top end at50k because I over revved it and bent a valve, ran like that for 20k until the vg seal went south, but I had it cammed with a8k rev limiter. If its bone stock leave it alone and ride it. As said clean the screen and always let it warm up before taking off and it should go 100k.

:icon_that:

Do you have a repair manual for your evo engine? I clean or replace the screen in mine twice a year which is most likely overkill but it is the way I do things. The screen is located on the lifter side just south of the lifters on a north bound bike. It is under a big flat headed screw driver plug. There is a spring located under the screen. There are two of them type plugs in a row. Only pull the closes one to the lifters and use a good bit.

Other than the cam bearing - If it don't leak leave it along.

Its a 93. you think the bearings would have failed by now? The bikes got 17 years on it, with that history any good mechanic would say "run it".

Most of them are going around 100,000 now with good maint,so enjoy it!

I have 67,000 on my 99 FXR2. Did have to have head gasket replaced under warranty the first year I had it but since then nothing but oil changes, runs as strong now as when I bought it. I did read somewhere that someone said lifters should be replaced every 25K miles and have always wondered if this is true. Comments?

A friend of mine has an Evo with 120,000+ miles on it.

Heard that also but I don't know anyone that has followed that recommendation. Probably written for the guy that never changes oil or cleans the screen.

Due a compression check every 10,000 miles or so. If the cylinders are within 10 % of each other just keep riding the pizz out of it.

165k on mine when traded for the 09 I have now. Still no smoke, ran great, no problems, no rebuild. The key to it was changing the oil and filter every 2500 miles and making sure to clean the lifter screen. Oil of choice ? Castrol GTX 20w50

Bub

I was told that the change to the newer "B" lifters on models that had the previous would negate this, but that there was a bulletin back in the day suggesting we change lifers at 25k.

The Evo's are a great engine, and with proper mainrenence, will last well over 100K miles. Over the years, the biggest issue is the tappet rollers. The roller bearings, or wheels on the tappets wear out in the neighbor hood of 40K miles. It will start with a slight ticking noise, and progressively get louder. Then the roller will quit rolling and skid on the cam, ruining the cam. By that time, you will hear a lot of noise, pounding and screeching as the roller skids over the cam lobe. If the issue isn't dealt with immediately, the roller bearings in the roller will fall out and work their way back into the oil pump, also ruining the oil pump. Keep your ears open for the noise, and if it starts making noise, get it diagnosed by an expert. It could save you the price of a cam and oil pump. Also, avoid the cheep Taiwaneese lifters that sell for under $100.00, they are the worst. I like S&S's the best my self.

I did my '96 BadBoy at 100,000 miles. Then, the main reason was a base
gasket leak. I did the engine Reman. Nothing wrong with this program but
I wish I had done the New Engine.
This pic is an old date but it still looks like this:

Attachment 559847

drjones...will replacement tappet rollers wear out around the same mileage?

I've got some pretty good tick / clatter comin from that side...probably time to do those.

Is that a job a fairly inexperienced wrench can do?

Maintained right I'd say 200k...

just cleened my screen , only found one plug but it must have been the right one it had the screen under it , any way like 5 min or less peace of cake to do ,mine was clean but nice to know about it and will keep it clean , also looks like could be a leak spot if that o-ring go's bad

Depending on what year your motor is, the tappet rollers are not replaceable. My guess is 1993 there about, MO CO went to a bigger axle in the wheel, but the roller out side diameter is the same. The aftermarket replacement wheels (Crane, or others) are made for the 1984-1992 style tappets. When it comes to replacing the rollers, you can take them out, but I would recommend taking them to a shop that has the tool to do the job properly. The axle has to be swaged into the tappet body, and the center of the roller must be captured by the axle so that it will not move (rotate). I had done a few sets back in the late 80's and early 90's by using a ball peen hammer and peening the axle, but in a couple of hundred miles, the axle failed. It failed because the axle had not captured the center race of the bearing, allowing it to spin, and it wore the axle out. So I went and bought the special tool to do the job, and haven't had any problems since. Harley dealers don't usually have the tool, as they just replace the tappets as an assembly.
I hope you understand what I'm trying to say here, as it is a little difficult to explain. But if you look at your replacement tappet rollers, you will see the outside roller, the tiny needle bearings, and the inside roller, or race, and last, the axle. The axle has to be swaged so the inside roller, or race does not spin. I hope this helps you out. TJ:icon_twocents:

Depends ....
 

:icon_that:

If you're doing a lot of hwy riding in cooler temps your service interval might be a little longer. Stopngo riding in town means higher operating temps and lubes will break down sooner. Lots of cold starts without adequate warm up doesn't help service life either. My old beater just turned over 100,000km ('bout 60,000 miles) with no major issues. I had a couple electrical issues last season. 99% of my riding is at hwy speed and therefore high RPM. All the vibration caused the contacts in my ignition switch to wear a little loose and the bike would start seriously missing after an hour or so of hard going. It was a bitch to track down though and my dealer finally ended up putting it on the dyno to duplicate the hwy riding conditions. It still makes max hp @ 66.65 and max torque @79.51. Then I had a problem with the oil system overpressuring and popping the oil cap (and hot oil) out and all over my ass. That took a while to figure out too. I had a check valve on the crankcase breather line (in 1988 they didn't vent the crankcase into the AC). The check valve plugged up causing the system to overpressure. Anyway, before we finally figured that out, the wrench thought maybe I had a busted piston or ring and the blowby was causing the excess pressure. I got him to do a compression test and both holes were good. Frustrating but good to know in the end.

Anyway just take good care of it, ride it safely and have fun!

I apologize...I got confused...gotta go look up what a tappet roller is. I thought it was the bearing on the end of the hydraulic lifter...I was talkinga bout just replacing the entire lifter mechanism...

oh, I see I was right...you were just talking about replacing the roller itself. Seems "easier" to just replace the entire thing. My buddy has a set of am he'll sell me for $50...pretty sure mine need it.

thanks!