Just got a set of HD stinger chrome wheels for a Fat Bob to install on my FXDC and while installing wheel bearings I'm finding that the either the instructions to discard the wheel bearing shims is wrong, the inner spacer is mispackaged or I need to make something up to fit. The wheel instalation kit 43851-08A comes with two inner spacers and calls for 41349-07 to use with the FXDF, the trouble is the spacer is .225" longer than the bearing to bearing inside with (inside of left wheel bearing to inside of right wheel bearing) so I don't see how the both bearings can seated they way they are supposed to. Now, there are two wheel bearing spacers in the kit, one steel at .125" and one aluminum at .188 but neither of these are going to get me the required spacing - even if I use the .188" spacer I am still .037 too long. As I see it, the spacer should be the same or slightly smaller than the bearing to bearing distance...........or am I missing something?


PS - Has anyone got a FB front wheel apart and can measure the outside to outside wheel bearing width?
instructions

 

The spacer should be longer...if it not the outer race will bottom out in the bore when you tighten the axle ...and take out the bearing. The spacers sound correct to me...the sealed bearings should never "seat" or bottom out in the bore.

 

Either memory fails me or I was taught wrong - I thought the outer races should fully seat and the spacer prevents tbd bearing from being crushed.

I can see where the spacer would be slightly longer but .225" seems like a lot - in this instance how would you know things are cetered or should the bearings just be flush withe the raised flange on each side of the hub?

Does HD do them different from metrics?

 

.225...almost a quarter of an inch...I think that is because they are making the wheel fit more than one model. According to the instructions you seat the bearing on the "primary" side.(which has nothing to do with the primary on the bike) and the bearing sticks out of the bore on the other side....Harley,s design not mine...lol . I just know the spacer has to be longer than the distance between the bores...you would think a few thousandths would be plenty.

 

The "primary" side in the instructions refers to the side with the brake rotor on it. Seating the bearing all the way down on that bearing is supposed to center the rotor in the caliper. You then seat the other bearing down until it contacts the spacer (the instructions say not to exceed the torque you would tighten the axle to if using an installation tool). That is my recollection of the instructions that came with my new wheels, seems there was also wording for dual disc brake applications but I didn't pay much attention since my street bob is single disc.

 

Well, that makes sense - I guess but it does seem a bass ackwards way of getting one wheel to fit several models. They could have added a few more spacers to the kit (and jacked up the price further) so both sides could be properly seated. Actually, given the $20 for the one bearing I just replaced the kit price is a pretty good deal if you had a use for the other parts.

 

I know it's an old thread but the subject is timeless. Front wheel bearing spacers and their mysteries...

The big mystery is what the bearing spacer does and how much slop is OK for it to have.

On my Softail you install the brake side bearing by pressing the outer race as far down into the hole as it will go until the outer race bottoms out completely. The bearing is now properly set.

Then you install the spacer and start pushing on the outside race of the second bearing trying to get its small inner collar to butt up against the spacer just kissing it until all the rattle is gone. You really can not tell if you have this second bearing in far enough unless all the "rattle" from the spacer is gone. But do NOT push it in TOO FAR.

As you are pushing against the OUTER races trying to get the space right on the small inner collars it is way too easy to tighten it too much and push the outer part of the bearings too close together. The bearing will now be overstressed and have excessive side pressure if you are not careful. You just want to KISS the spacer with those little collars, not CRUSH it.

This way the bearings are set firm but not over tight. They will not be loose and wobbly and yet will resist axel nut pressure when you mount the wheel on the bike and squeeze the axel nuts tight against the inner collar of the bearings. THAT is what the spacer is for. To keep a minimal pressure against the bearing assembly when you tighten the axel. Just enough to be "snug."

If you push the second bearing in too far you are preloading the bearing and it will fail prematurely.

 

Again bringing this thread from the dead...

We noticed this happend with a bearing of a costumer today on his 2012 Fat Boy. The old bearing of the right side was broken probably by what was said above BUT if we fab a spacer ring so that fills the gap between the right bearing and the inside of the wheel so it seats as normal shouldn't this solve this issue???

 

No need to make an internal bearing shim/spacer for the secondary bearing...that's the design. In fact, you could create more problems...if you made the that shim/spacer too wide/long (even very very slight), then your center sleeve becomes "Short" by the same amount... no bueno.

Just use the correct parts and follow the correct installation procedure...

(Almost Always the following is true)
Install first bearing on the Brake Disc side (aka "Primary" side of wheel)
If there are Two Discs (e.g. Dual Fronts) install First Bearing in LEFT side of wheel (aka "Primary" side of wheel)

Also this talk above about the possibility of tight bearings by over pressing/drawing in the bearings can be eliminated by reversing the "Installers" before seating bearings.

See these links where in the later posts it's discussed (I reverse them, but bwoltz machined his recesses out)
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...too-tight.html

Also referenced
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/wheel...ientation.html
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