Also just got a new RG Ultra with the 103 engine, planning on the 1,000 mile mark for fluids. Did notice the capacities, the primary is 38 ozs. So you have to buy two qts. of whatever for the primary, leave to HD for this. The engine is up to 4 qts., the trans is like 28 ozs. Oh well.

 

Why not just read the owner's book.

 

God, why do I even try.

 

I just had a 103 built in my old 88 box and for me I changed at 300 then again at 1000. I didn't spend the money to have some small pieces of metal do the scouring. Just piece of mind on my part.

 

Your primary is 1 qt or 32 ounces (same).

Put in a QT and call it good

 

No, just put 3.5 qts in the engine, even though the book shows 4 qts. This will help keep the oil seeping/blowing out your air filter area. Use the extra oil in the primary for 38oz. Yes, the bikes since 2011 with 103 engine and 6 spd transmission call for 38 ounces in the primary (both in the owners manual and also in the Service Manual). The transmission takes a full quart (32oz)! .

 

For those still confused about this post...let me restate; there are two trains of thought when breaking in the motor....run the regular 1000 miles -drain, and the other train of thought is to drain the fluids early with the notion being everything is pretty much seated and set within the first 40 miles? I'm just looking for opinions backed by first hand experience on how you approached the break in...

Thanks for your time.
GEESE

 

If you change it at 100, better change it again at 1,000 miles or so. You need to give all the stuff they want to flush out at the 1,000K a chance to form.

 

The fluids in the engine from the factory are standard Harley Davidson mineral oils (unless it's a CVO). There is no special break-in oil. There is also NO reason to change before 1,000 miles. Your filter will take care of any break-in swarf (if any). You would have to have serious problems with your engine if it clogs the filter before 1,000 miles (in fact if it clogs before 10,000 miles). I usually cut my first oil filter in half to inspect the amount of junk in it to see if there are any engine problems. My filter at 1,000 miles had almost nothing detectable in it.

The only advice I can offer is to make sure you know where the drain plugs are. Hint: do not remove the pipe threaded plugs on the bottom of the crankcase and the gearbox. All three drains for the oil tank, gearbox and primary are the same type of bolt. If you have any doubt, search for oil changes on this forum and you will find several, complete with pictures, that make sure you don't remove the wrong plug.

Incidentally, if you do remove one of the wrong plugs, just don't over torque them when you put them back in. They are a tapered plug and can crack the crankcase or gearbox case if you keep tightening them.