Non-adjustable vs adjustables when swapping cams
 

The parts manager at the local H-D dealer (Zylstra) got me thinking about not using adjustable pushrods. I will be using Gaterman or Fueling lifters on my 103 FLTRU and not going the adjustable route pays for the lifters. The tick that one lifter has at start up drives me crazy. I know the tank does not come off the bagger as easy as it does from my 96 CI FXDF.
I have two cams waiting & since our weather is getting worse by the day, I'll have more time & I'm interested in hearing from people who have done it (cam change) both ways (adj. & non-adj. P.R.) and have some input.
The cost of adj. pushrods buys a lot of gaskets.
Thanks, Brian.

I went with the adjustable -- a whole lot easier and if you do have a tic -- you can turn it a bit further and eliminate it -- guess I am old school and like that method

Take the rocker boxes off vs. not taking them off.

Exactly. Taking the rocker boxes off does not appear to be that big of a deal & since I'll be doing my own wrench turning I'd be very interested in hearing from others who have taken this route.

if you were reving the crap out of your bike, and worried about pushrod flex, (which would include very heavy valve springs) go with the solid push rods, anything else, use the adjustable. easier servicing, no real down side, how many gaskets do you ever really need to buy? And if you do it right the first time, you don't need to remove the rocker boxes again, and actually don't have to remove them at all if you just cut the old ones out. adjustable is the way to go for a street use bike. the initial cost is more but you will be happier down the road when it will be easier to work on, and riding sooner after the repair

I've had 3 engines built for myself and would never use adjustables; I've always used perfect fit...only ever seen adjustables come loose twice; neither one was me...if the only reason is to provide a shorcut and a bit more revenue for the mechanic, I don't get it.

I stayed with the OEM one-piece p-rods when I did the install on the SE-254E cams. Sure, it's a little more work/time and requires more gaskets/seals when going through the top side of the motor, but you get to inspect/replace the breather filters at the same time, as well as check for other items while you're in there. Either way, hope it all works out for you.
~

Oh I'm sure it will. I like getting my hands dirty.
Wondering how you feel about the 254E cams in your dyna. I have a used, but showing zero wear, set I got of ebay for less than half price and am planning on using them on my FXDF.

I don't know if the cams you have in mind can be used with the oem 1 piece push rods. If the base circle is too small you will need to buy new pushrods anyway. And 6200 rpm is NOT revving the crap out of anything. Heck i hit the limiter on every ride with my wimpy, adjustable, prone to fail, SE tapered adjustable pushrods. I guess I have the only set that has never broke a nut or loosened up......ever, LOL.

Personally, I prefer adjustable pushrods. Yes it does add cost, but if you ever have to go into the cam chest again you'll be glad you did it. It makes replacing lifters or gaskets/o-rings a snap. And you gain the adjustability if needed for lifter noise. I've used 5-6 sets over the years and never had one come loose.

I like the Gaterman 1023 lifters. They work great, and are more reasonably priced than the Fuelings. You can put the difference toward the adjustables (and it will probably come close to paying for them).