RPM's and Break-in Period
 

Funny/Strange that I will read this forum but not my owner's manual. From the forum I learned that Harley wants you to keep the rpm's below 3000 or max 3500 during break-in. I had written that I took my new bike home (50 miles) at 80-90 mph much of the time. Many wrote that the speed was not good for the break-in period. Well, yesterday I had an opportunity to ride some more and this time I watched the rpm's. It's not 80-90 mph that is the problem as in 6th gear at 80 mph I'm turning 2900 rpms, but it's the lower gears where it's easy to exceed 3500 rpms. So, the moral of the story is if you'll take it easy reaching 80-90 mph you'll never exceed 3000 rpms. But you could never exceed 60 mph yet do harm to the motor as it's between 1st and 5th gear where it's easy to exceed 3500 rpms. Speed isn't the problem...it's how you get there.

I pretty much ride the same whether I'm breaking a bike in or everyday driving. I always shift between 3,000-3,500 RPM's.

I do like breaking a bike in during cool weather.

The other thing I have on all of our bikes (with the exception of the EVO) is an oil cooler and I plan on installing the Ward's Fan Kit on my '13 110 before spring.

Keeping an engine as cool as possible with frequent oil changes is IMHO the life of an engine.

did you do a lot of shifting up and down in the lower gears though? I thought that was the whole point of breaking in the motor, is to use and shift frequently within the lower gears. Supposedly, you aren't supposed to stay in the same gear the whole time.

Didn't see any wrong procedures here .. I would only emphasize don't stay at a steady RPM for any length of time, vary the speed and load and take a cool off period about every 50 miles .. Have done well using this procedure over the years ..

I was told ride it like you stole it but just change speeds and rpm's until 500 miles. You will hear tons of different ways of breaking it in here. Good luck trying to decipher which is the proper way. Lol

I rode the first 100 miles pretty easy, never holding the same speed and shifting through all gears but after that I rode it the way I intended on riding it, I have broke in four Harley's the exact same way and never had any future problems with them. I too belong to the Ride it Like you Stole it group - after the first 100 that is..

told ya :D

NOTE:*S & S Engines require premium gasoline (octane 91 or higher) for best performance. Octane boosting gasoline additives may be necessary with marginal gasoline.

CAUTION:*Low octane gasoline and hot weather can cause detonation and extensive engine damage. Never try to power through ignition knock ("ping," "rattle," etc.) by opening throttle.

CAUTION:*If engine is run with foreign material in*the oil tank, engine damage will occur. Engine*damage caused by foreign material in the oil tank*is not covered under the S&S warranty.Clean oil tank and oil cooler and flush or*replace oil lines before installing engine in*frame.

Engine Break-In Procedure
Note:*S&S engines are designed for high performance*and as such are not as tolerant of inadequate break-in*as stock or lower performance engines. Correct breakin*will assure longer engine life and will prevent*unnecessary engine damage. Engine damage caused*by improper break-in is not covered under the S&S*warranty.

A.*Initial start up. Run engine approximately one*minute at 1250-1750 rpm.*DO NOT*crack*throttle or subject to any loads during this period*as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at*this time. During this time, check to see that oil*pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil*tank, and that no leaks exist.

B.*Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any*leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the*touch.

C. After engine has cooled, start up again and*allow the motor to build some heat. Engine*should be run no longer than three to four*minutes. When the cylinders become warm/*hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the*motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow*the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and*continue to watch for problems.

D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each*successive time it should take slightly longer to*warm up and you can increase the temp slightly*each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each*time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously*from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don't*be too concerned with final carb settings at this*time because idle speed and mixture cannot*be correctly set until the motor reaches full*operating temperature. The motor should not*reach that temperature during these cycles. Do*not allow engine temperature to become*excessive. After the motor has cooled to room*temperature for the final time you are ready to*start the 1000 mile engine break-in process.

E. The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings*and piston break-in. Engine damage is most*likely to occur during this period. Keep heat*down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging*the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary*the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We*recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.

F.*The next 500 miles should be spent running*engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph.*Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not*lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We*recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles.*

CAUTION:*Lugging or running engine prematurely at*sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and*other engine components. S&S voids it's guarantee if*engine is not broken in properly.

G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can*be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can*be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle*can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid*overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine:*no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer*towing or sidecar operation.

H.*After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and*adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can*now be operated normally.

I.*Have Fun!

I did the first 500 miles as a good boy. Then it was all fun from there.

The key is to load the engine during break-in to seat the rings...that doesn't take high rpms to do, just loading the engine repeatedly.
Hard acceleration followed by hard deceleration is good.
Putting around at the same rpms and not loading the engine is bad.

Don't beat on it unnecessarily, but working the engine by loading it will break it in better and will extend the life of your engine. You only have a small window to seat the rings properly, once that window is gone it's gone forever. I break all engines in this way & never had an engine use a drop of oil & never had internal mechanical issues....truck, car, bike, atv, lawn mower, etc.