Help! What's the secret?
 

So I'm starting my cam install project (2007 Fatboy). Figure I will get it in 6th gear before I start tearing parts off. Start it up-try shifting to higher gear....NO DICE ... won't go past 2nd. So I jack the rear wheel off the ground, but still no luck. It will go from neutral to 2nd, and that's it. Even tried riding it up the driveway and shifting, but ran out of room in 2nd...Do I need to ride around the block and upshift when I get close to home and coast? What am I missing here?

I shift a static, engine off bike by sitting on it and rocking it back and forth against the drivetrain lash.

Put the rear wheel in the air, and while up shifting spin the wheel

Thanks guys. I did the rocking thing and it worked. Still not sure I am in 6th gear since the "6" light won't light up. Maybe the bike has to be moving for this? Anyway hopefully I am in a high enough gear to spin the engine over with the spark plugs out...Will find out tonight.

spin the wheel while shifting

Why not just count how many times you shift to know what gear your in, i hope this doesnt sound rude, but if you need a light to tell you your in 6th gear you may want to reconsider the task of a cam job on your own. Again, not meaning to be offensive

Your cam job is going to require you to have the rear wheel lifted anyway so you can rotate the motor around and get the lifter on the heel of the cam (unless you're removing the top end and re-using the stock pushrods), so it would be best to find a small jack to use under the rear of the bike. Unless you do it different than many of us, you will also be lowering the bike to keep the engine from turning while you torque the crank and pinion bolts (unless you buy or make a special locking tool for the job).

In short, jack the rear tire up and rotate the rear wheel forward till it 'catches'. Pull the shift lever up. Repeat until the shift lever no longer goes into another gear.

Good luck with the cam job. It's not hard, but follow the service manual very closely and don't overtorque the bolts - especially the cam plate bolt #4.

[QUOTE=HooliganCycles;12363108]Why not just count how many times you shift to know what gear your in, i hope this doesnt sound rude, but if you need a light to tell you your in 6th gear you may want to reconsider the task of a cam job on your own. Again, not meaning to be offensive.

Haha, no offense taken. I know this whole post sounded pretty stupid....It was late, I was tired, the dog ate my homework... just not thinking straight. I am all good now...

I've been wrenching a looong time, but still do some dumb $*%& now and then. I have read my FSM several times, and researched the cam swap extensively. I don't expect any major problems as long as I can keep the fog out of my brain. Gonna relax and have a beer tonight before starting....

while torqueing the oil pump, rotate the motor so the gerators sync themselves...good luck...

Yeah, that's what the FSM says. So I take this to mean leave the bolts holding the oil pump finger tight, then rotate the motor a few times, then tighten to spec. Does that sound right?

I have to wonder why the you tube videos show guys leaving the oil pump attached to the cam plate and not doing this alignment procedure. Looks like something they would do at my local $tealership...cutting corners!

6th gear light wont light up unless actually riding down the road as it is a Hall sensor. If the pump was never removed from the plate then no need to re align it.

I'm pretty OCD about that step. I use the same alignment screws I use for tappet blocks diagonally, and then the correct bolts with blue loctite in the other holes diagonally (1-3 vs. 2-4, etc.) Spinning the wheel almost constantly, I'll draw all four up finger tight. Then I'll put just a little more to the two regular bolts, then pull out the alignment screws and replace with two bolts and blue loctite drawing them a little past finger tight. Spinning the wheel again I'll draw all four to about half the torque settings, spin the wheel again and draw them up to where they need to be.

Overkill? Yep. Does it make me feel better before I put the cam cover back on? Yep. :icon_wink:

"I have to wonder why the you tube videos show guys leaving the oil pump attached to the cam plate and not doing this alignment procedure. Looks like something they would do at my local $tealership...cutting corners!"

why does every one have to dealer bash???

That's an J&P video on YouTube showing you how to do it wrong.

why does every one have to dealer bash???

That's an J&P video on YouTube showing you how to do it wrong.[/QUOTE]

Dealer bashing? I speak from personal experience. I'm sure there are good dealer service departments somewhere, just none that I've ever been to. Either it's the service writer talking to me like I'm a clueless moron, poor workmanship, overcharging, etc. Always something. The dealerships I've dealt with here have a huge staff turnover. They treat their staff like $&%# and can't get anybody good. YRMV

I speak for personal experience, also.. I and my Son have had our bikes worked on by 3 different dealers near our home and they have all done a great job and I'll add because we have our work done in the winter ---- it's been at a FAIR price.

I do know not all dealers have great Wrenchs.. but have you looked at any AUTO dealership.. they have and go through the same Issues, high labor cost per Hr and turnover of Wrenches.

I have NEVER called any HD dealerships a STEALERship... and IMO most of the time its because of people who don't have a clue what the average cost of Labor is in almost anything.

I mean if they called a Plummer, Electrician, ETC to their house and had to pay for a house call, labor, parts, the same people would be screaming about their cost..

Just my .02 cents.


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I know some people are offended by the derogatory term,"$tealership." But many of them have earned it. I understand the need to make a profit. However, management that makes unreasonable demands on their staff forces them to rush and do sub-par work. They charge $80 an hour labor and pay the techs like $14 an hour. Labor costs? Please. I would only complain about the cost of a plumber if I paid him and the pipe still leaked. Your going to charge me top dollar, than do top dollar work. That's all I'm saying. And, I referred to MY local $tealership. Glad yours is top notch.