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Why & How to Cool Down Your Twin Cam Engine

  #21  
Old 04-12-2017, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by davidearlcox
I agree with you martin10. Also, it is my opinion these mods are more detrimental than beneficial. It's been a while since I've mentioned this, but Charles Lindbergh had a similar argument while serving in the pacific during WWII regarding leaning out the engines of P40 Warhawks and P38 Lightnings to increase range. Everyone told him this would destroy the engines due to overheating. He proved them wrong.

Modern FI engines running under electronic management can very safely run leaner, increasing fuel economy and reducing wear. It is not uncommon for engines to achieve 300,000 or more miles before overhaul instead of the typical 80,000 I grew up with running carbureted engines with NO emissions controls. Reason, AFR being constantly maintained by computer control at about 14:1, just on the rich side of stociometric value for gasoline, results in max power, virtually complete burning (minimum pollution) and, in my opinion, almost no washdown of the cylinder walls by fuel.

Screwing around with this seems to me to result in increased cylinder wear over the lifetime of the engine, not decreased wear.
The Lindbergh story is pretty cool.. They mention it in a documentary about P38s on youtube. Still we don't know what the actual AFRs were..

I didn't know that 14 to 1 results in max power... My own experience has shown it to be about 13.2 +- 0.2 which is where fuel burns fastest. As you move lean or rich from there the rate of combustion slows.. From what I've seen slower combustion generates more heat.. It's a burn time / cylinder area thing.

I do know that if I lean the AFRs close to stoic at cruise, oil / engine temps seem to go up. It becomes a balance between leanness and motor heat. Enough heat a detonation can follow.
 
  #22  
Old 04-13-2017, 05:08 PM
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what is considered to be rich for light cruising? I'm between 13.9 and 14
I thought that was a comfortable margin but maybe not ?
 
  #23  
Old 04-13-2017, 06:05 PM
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Well, just decatted my header, going to install SE Air, SE CVO mufflers, and a Fuel Pak to reduce my heat, hope I'm headed in the direction of taking some heat out.
 
  #24  
Old 04-13-2017, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Gozzie
what is considered to be rich for light cruising? I'm between 13.9 and 14
I thought that was a comfortable margin but maybe not ?
It's fine.. I thing the issue is what you want to go for, max power or max efficiency.. For efficiency, 14 is fine. I would say even a little rich.. I would lean it out till you see temps rise then back off.
 
  #25  
Old 04-13-2017, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by davidearlcox
I agree with you martin10. Also, it is my opinion these mods are more detrimental than beneficial. It's been a while since I've mentioned this, but Charles Lindbergh had a similar argument while serving in the pacific during WWII regarding leaning out the engines of P40 Warhawks and P38 Lightnings to increase range. Everyone told him this would destroy the engines due to overheating. He proved them wrong.

Modern FI engines running under electronic management can very safely run leaner, increasing fuel economy and reducing wear. It is not uncommon for engines to achieve 300,000 or more miles before overhaul instead of the typical 80,000 I grew up with running carbureted engines with NO emissions controls. Reason, AFR being constantly maintained by computer control at about 14:1, just on the rich side of stociometric value for gasoline, results in max power, virtually complete burning (minimum pollution) and, in my opinion, almost no washdown of the cylinder walls by fuel.

Screwing around with this seems to me to result in increased cylinder wear over the lifetime of the engine, not decreased wear.
I think it's worth while to clarify thinking here... I do think you can lower running temps by going to a richer cruise which I think david is taking about.. 14 to 1 is a good startling point. Load in the cylinder ain't that high.. Start at 14 to 1 and go leaner.. Monitor temps until you get it to what you like.. My experience with using Tmax is that you higher compression motors seem to be a little happier with a little more fuel. For WOT, 12.8 to 13.2 works, sometime it will get as high as 13.5.. IIRC Steve was saying on M8s its a different issue.. They actually work pretty well at lean cruise compared to TCs..

BTW, You really don't need to worry about wash down till you get below about 12 to 1. I do know that if you run them at 10 you'll see wear pretty fast...
 
  #26  
Old 04-24-2017, 11:33 PM
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I actually used some of DK Custom’s “inexpensive” tips (removed all wind deflectors - had three different sets installed and the left side thigh protector) and I must say, rode the RGU for three hours on Sunday and the bike felt so much cooler.

I wonder how their "Dual-Cool Oil Cooler for 2009-Up” is routed and installed as an auxiliary oil cooler with MoCos oil cooler.
 
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