Got an oil cooler?

I have an oil bud oil cooler and never hit over 260/270.
No fans.

I would freak out if I was hitting 400. lololol or even much over 300 for that matter.

 

Hmm.... seems like I remember saying the same thing...

T.

 

Yes thanks. Had that top of mind after you mentioned it, but opted to leave it since the fan reduced temps about 50 degrees. I read some testimonies on their website and many said it brought it down 100 degrees...and I was nowhere close to that so when Steve "suggested" I remove the covers since it reduces the cooling abilities substantially, I figured I would try it....at least now I can see the impact of removing those covers. I now have to paint the heads because I hate the burnt off powdercoat look.

Thanks for the observation.

 

I am assuming you are not riding a Sportster.

Here is what Kevin of DK Customs said about the differences in temp between a Sportster and a Twin Cam:

The Sportster is the most "honest" engine HD is currently making. The sensor is reading at the top of the rear cylinder. It is not even warmed up until 280*, and normal operating temps range between 350-420 off that sensor (which the PV displays as ET).

On Twin Cams the sensor is near the intake valve of the front cylinder. It is warmed up around 170*, and normal operating temps range between 210-230. (however, the Twin Cams have a real heat issue, and it is not unusual to see them higher than 300...while this is normal, it is NOT good).

Even at 230*, the Twin Cam is running Hotter than the Sportster at 400*. How? The temp on the front cylinder (front cylinders are always cooler) near the intake valve (which is the coolest part of the head) is an artificially low number. Taking the temp on the rear cylinder, right above the combustion chamber, gives a much more informed reading of the engine temp. Since there is no sensor on the Twin Cam at the center top of the rear cylinder (and no way to shoot a infrared in there), I don't know how hot that is getting, but it's a pretty safe bet it is MORE than 400*.

The temps you're getting are fine. If you ever get stuck in hot weather, in stop & go, you might see it creep up to 420*, if it starts going higher, I would either shut down, or get some air moving over the engine.

My 883, converted to a 1250, will run all day long, in 100* ambient temps, and will range between 380 and 410, depending on how hard I running.

Here is a shot of what someone shared about min/max engine temps:



__________________

 

Just a reminder that these are head temps, not oil temps....

T.

 

Removed my head covers (spark plug covers) and painted area.

With head covers:



Without head covers before painting:






Without head covers after painting:












The area that needs the fan is behind the spark plug where air can flow through the cylinder heads. My covers were definitely for bling and not for function. You can see the air flow-through ventilation in the heads in the before pics.

 

Tested cooling without covers and the 100 degrees is an exaggeration or it could perhaps apply only to the larger fans like the Cool-Master....but definitely not the Mighty Mites.

It did bring temps down even more but not as much as I expected. In heavy traffic, was running no higher than 350 degrees which is great (360-380 with covers). When I got out of traffic and was running at highway speeds i.e. 65-70 mph, engine temps rose to 375-380.

So my assessment is your engine will run 50-75 degrees cooler with the Love Jugs Mighty-Mite.

 

Those temperatures (in the table you presented) are the range where the PV in AT mode will collect data. For example, in the table that you provided (for big twin) the PV will not start the AT function (collecting data) until the ET is at 167 degrees and it will stop (collecting data) when the ET is over 300 degrees. Those are just default settings in the PV.

 

As the documents states, it is the Default Autotune Settings for PowerVision.


The Min/Max temps are used to filter characteristics outside normal full operating temps. It allows AT to only populate corrections within optimum temp. Hence the ranges in the documents are considered "Normal Operating Temps".

 

Thanks for the info. I'm sure the DJ info is solid, but do you know if there is anything published by Harley that indicates what they consider to be "Normal Operating Temps"?