Got that Max?

Also Yes...the FSM refers to the Throttle body as "Induction Module"


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I think so.. Good stuff to know..

 

Well aware of codes and fuel pressure. Of course the bike does not have fuel pressure sensors, that is why a good troubleshooter should have a fuel pressure gauge. They are relatively inexpensive and an easy way to to see what is going on inside the tank of a fuel injected bike.


It takes 50 "trips" without any additional codes triggering, which consists of 50 start and run cycles with the run cycle lasting at least 30 seconds, for the ECM to clear any historic codes. A crankshaft position sensor can throw other DTC's but there are two codes in the database specifically for the crank sensor.


Anyone can throw parts at a problem, but if you take your time and just start with the basic, simple, stuff I feel anyone can accurately troubleshoot an issue. And yes, sometimes that "troubleshooting" involves throwing a good ESTIMATED guess of a part at the issue, not just throwing all kinds of different parts at it.


These basics include:
checking codes and
checking fuel pressure in this particular case


ALWAYS:
KISS
Keep It Simple Stupid

 

Also wanted to add that I have rarely seen a crank sensor magically fix any particular issue. Although they are electronic and do fail on occasion, it is a rarity that they do. Sometimes they just need to be cleaned and most other times there is something else going with the bike. whether it be electrical or mechanical.

 

While I've not seen one fail, I've seen a few others that have.. They are not solid state like a hall effect but are simply a magnet with a coil of wire wound around it. The problem with magnets is that they get weak. When the magnet gets weak the current it generates drops.. Also when magnets get hot they get weaker. The 2 problems combined can cause a heat related failure. As a previous cop bike, I'd bet the motor has seem some heat and as I stated above, crank sensor failures are hard to detect by the ECM, they simply thing the cranks has stopped spinning. Sometimes it's good to go ahead and replace. I agree about having a fuel pressure gauge.. Anyone doing their own work should have one..

In either case random stopping without a code is more than likely the crank sensor or fuel issue. It could also be run stop switch. The warm failure characteristic is indicative of a cranks sensor. It could also be something as simple as a poor fuel line connection at the fuel tank..


Add:

Another thing to look for when the motor stops is what the engine light does. It needs to still come on for 4 seconds and go out. If it does not do that, then ECM may be the heat related failure, providing it is still getting power. .

 

The bike has a 103 in it. It was the first year for the 103 in a police bike. I changed the fuel pump this weekend but, the problem still persists. I am going to the local Harley dealership on Friday to pick up a new ckp. Hopefully that fixes the problem.
New coil, battery, fuel pump and, a new ckp. Hopefully I can get this problem resolved before to long.

 

well the ckp sensor wasn't the problem. Just got done taking a 10 mile ride and it wont flipping start. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

 

Well it was a shot.. Does the behavior of the engine light change when the bike quits?? It should come on for 4 seconds then go out... When it quits, if you cycle the ignition, can you hear the fuel pump run.

 

Stop just throwing parts at it. TROUBLESHOOT the issue. Listen to the wonderful advice you are receiving from several people in here. It's a simple issue that is just waiting for you to discover.
Have you checked your codes if any?
Do you have the capability to measure your fuel pressure?

 

I cant measure the fuel pressure but, I just put a new fuel pump in. I can hear the fuel pump turn on when I turn the ignition on. No codes are showing. Bike runs great when it runs its just when it gets shut off it doesn't want to restart. It just rolls and rolls.