1. can you hear the fuel pump run when it wont start? Twice. It should run on Key On and after cranking and no start.

2. Does the engine come on and go off on "key on" when there is no start..


3. Try holding up hard on the fuel tank connector.

 

I have one for an 07 sitting in the bike room left over from my 07. After one failed I carried a spare the next 75,000 miles. Check for codes most of the time Crank sensor will give a code it may be an intermittent one but will throw on.

 

So this can get messy but let's start simple. I would highly recommend you consider purchasing a fuel pressure gauge in the future as we may need one to accurately troubleshoot your bike. They are relatively inexpensive and come in handy let me tell you. Especially when working on an issue like this. One thing to keep in mind here is that there is no use troubleshooting the issue until the issue happens. Make the bike fail then begin troubleshooting.


Let's start simple, (I'm a fan of that)
When the bike fails to start when hot, removed the fuel tank cap and try restarting the bike. Vapor lock can cause starting issues when hot especially if the tank is not venting correctly.

If this does not correct the problem I suspect we have an electrical problem. I have been pouring over wiring diagrams for your bike this morning and pulled some things out that I would do in order to troubleshoot the issue. I would recommend on your next "Troubleshooting" ride, you take some tools with you or ride until the bike is good and hot and return home before shutting the bike down.


Verify she will not start. Pull one plug wire at a time and check for spark. I would suggest doing this before you go ride so you can see what a good strong spark indication looks like because when the bike will not start it may look like it is delivering spark to the plug but can be very weak. If there is no spark or a very weak spark, ohm out each plug wire. You should have somewhere around the following:

Front - 4750 to 11230 ohms
Rear - 1812 to 4375 ohms (please keep in mind these values can change drastically between hot and cold wires depending on whether or not you have a "leaky" plug wire, and yes, even new plug wires and ignition modules can be faulty and leak.)

If the above readings are good, pull the connector off the ignition coil and check for 12VDC at pin A and B (both wires should be Yellow/Green) which may only be present right when you turn the key on, like the fuel pump runs and then shuts off. (The ECM does not continually power the ignition module unless the engine is running.) Then turn the key off and check for continuity between pins C of the ignition module connector and pin 11 of the ECM connector (this wire should be yellow/blue) and then the same between pin D of the ignition module connector and pin 29 of the ECM connector (this wire should be Blue/Orange) You should have 0.0 Ohms on these two wires. These wires are your coil trigger wires from the ECM that tell the ignition module which cylinder to fire.

While you have the seat off the bike it would be a good idea to check you battery connections and grounds under the seat there. Tell us what you get and we will move on from here.

 

Chriswalden88, That's a nice write up and offers good advice.

 

So how is it going? Please let us know when you figure out. This threads will be here for years, and may help someone.

 

I checked for spark, I have it. Ohms on the wires are fine. I have ran with the gas cap off, didn't help. The only thing that has been working (four times so far) I push up on the connection under the fuel tank. If I push up on the connection, turn it to run let the fuel pump run, its fired right up. I am going to buy a new fuel filter and line that goes from the filter to the bottom of the tank and replace the connection on the main fuel line, along with a new gas cap. I don't know what would be causing vapor lock, a hole in the line maybe.

 

If it appears to be the connector to tank, try replacing the fuel line that goes to the throttle body first.. They are pricey,, about $50.. The problem stems from there being 3 ***** in the tank connector that hold the external fuel line in just like a quick connect air fitting. The ***** holding the fitting in place wear into the fuel line fitting and the connection no longer completely seats. There are some kits out there that rebuild the tank connector but I've not tried them.. I typically replace all that parts..

 

I was stalling when gas tank low. So yesterday I replaced pump, fuel pressure regulator, hoses, and filter. I dont think filter caused it would have to be really plugged. but it was over due it had 50k on it. Was supposed to be 25 according to manual.


i paird $70 or so for Harley filter, than found out drag has them for around $30. Pump was $250. There are some on internet for $50-75. But I couldn't find anyone on forums who used them. But they did have positive reviews.

For me, the time it takes to drain the gas and pull it out, I figured would just replace it all. With 50k miles I look at it as maintence too. I am not the type to wait until until it fails on side of road to replace, if I can help it.

Close to $400 with all the parts.

Also you need stainless hose clamps since in gas. I am not sure the average are stainless, so I ordered some. 1/4-5/8 worked, but were big. I am going to try smaller so I don't have hose sticking out with potential to rub. I cut it short, but would still prefer shorter.


No idea if your problem. My other bike would stall at low speed once in a great while. Coil ohmed fine. Replaced, and hasn't done it since.


Myself, the labor the dealer would charge to troubleshoot, will buy new parts. A pro might diagnois the correct problem right away, may not. Hard with intermittenant problems.

I brough in warranty problem stalling every 500 miles. They just said didn't do it for us, after I told them it does it every 500.

 

Yeah I'm with Max Headflow, its the connector. It's not typically the connector at the bottom of the tank but the male side of the connector that goes to the throttle body. Replace that and it sounds like you have your issue resolved. A little troubleshooting goes a lot further than throwing parts at it.