General Topics/Tech TipsDiscussion on break in periods, rider comfort, seats and pad suggestions. Tech tips as they become available will be posted here.
You might also check the crank/warm up map ...what you are describing sounds lot like it's too rich during cranking....and maybe the timing could be retarded 1-2 degree's at start up ...
when the motor is cold it needs the extra fuel ...but when it's hot ...that make the mixture too rich ..and with the timing too advance ...cause's the kick back and the grey smoke out the intake ...
take a few points out at the higher temps., and retard the starting timing ....(in the 80-100 map section 750-1250 rpm range) a couple degrees and then retest ,,,,
hope this helps ...good luck !!
yeah, that makes sense. I’m willing to try that. I have a Power Commander III.
Just need to get help with changing the settings.
Might be able to use the wife’s laptop at the bike, can I download the map, modify and replace?
yes ...you should be able to download the map ...you will need the software for the PC III ...
there are a few helpful tips at the bottom of the page ....also ...or look for a map that may be closer to the engine mods you have made ...
dont just look in the touring section ...but may find something better in the dyna or softail section also .. http://www.powercommander.com/powerc...dType=PCIIIUSB
I had it dynoed several years ago, so it has a custom map. I’m wanting to check the below idle timing, maybe bump a degree or 2 of retard in below idle and see what that does.
So your saying when it's hot, and it cranks for a long time, its actually cranking? And at times a backfire out of the intake correct? Maybe turn it off and try again and it starts or still just a crank correct?
So your saying when it's hot, and it cranks for a long time, its actually cranking? And at times a backfire out of the intake correct? Maybe turn it off and try again and it starts or still just a crank correct?
yeah, it’s been doing this for a couple years. I’ve tried cycling the thumb switch and ignition switch, but I’m not sure if I tried not letting the fuel pump shut off. I’ll try that but I still want to retard the time
took the battery and had it checked, almost 4 years old, I would have not hesitate to buy a new one, but he reassured me it’s go. Went into detail of the test. So it’s not a battery issue.
So what were the details of the test? Did you get a CCA value for your battery?
If the bike ran fine foe a long while and started having issues. The last thing I would do is change any part of the EFI maps. A cough is generally from lean but it could also be poor timing.. To check the possibility of being lean, you need to check fuel pressure. You could try to start the bike while the fuel pump is still running to see if it helps. At 97000 miles I'd probably also simply replace the cranks sensor.. You can try and check battery voltage sag at the ECU. It can screw things up. Shouldn't be below 9.5 volts.
So what were the details of the test? Did you get a CCA value for your battery?
If the bike ran fine foe a long while and started having issues. The last thing I would do is change any part of the EFI maps. A cough is generally from lean but it could also be poor timing.. To check the possibility of being lean, you need to check fuel pressure. You could try to start the bike while the fuel pump is still running to see if it helps. At 97000 miles I'd probably also simply replace the cranks sensor.. You can try and check battery voltage sag at the ECU. It can screw things up. Shouldn't be below 9.5 volts.
I replaced the crank sensor since the problem started, haven’t cleaned it this year.
Battery guy told me the test was 1/2 the rated CCA’s and it passed his test, can’t imagine him lying to avoid selling me a new battery.
I’m thinking a weak compensator is exposing a timing issue that is borderline correct.
I replaced the crank sensor since the problem started, haven’t cleaned it this year.
Battery guy told me the test was 1/2 the rated CCA’s and it passed his test, can’t imagine him lying to avoid selling me a new battery.
I’m thinking a weak compensator is exposing a timing issue that is borderline correct.
Good that you changed the CKS.
So the guy used an old style tester. They are not that accurate. Measure voltage drop while cranking.
I have a bobber that the batteries were only lasting about 2 years. Even changed the starter. Soldered the lugs to the wires on the battery leads (they were only crimped) and the bike is still starting just fine on that the last 2 year old battery.
Check Fuel pressure. Starting while pump still running should be easier if you have a pressure leak. Cold Efi typically dumps a bunch of extra fuel so starting cold would be easier.
06 baggers typically don't have a comp issues.. If it kicking back it might be a sign of a weak battery / starter / cables.
If it's timing, it would have to be map sensor but typically when the map sensor goes you have other running issues. EFI modules typically don't reprogram themselves.
Turns out I couldn’t get the map out until I pressed the face of the PCIII, the green lights on the front got brighter and out came the map.
Wife called Power Commander and said we should have got more than 13 years out of it, they gave us a discount. I’m very happy. PCV on the way.
I hope this is the starting issue.
Got the PCV, I panicked when I saw the software was swapping cyl 1 and cyl 2 maps. Contacted PC, they said cyl designations are changed, initial test drive was 1/2 hour, ran great. Came home to set TPS in PC. Slight kickback when warm. Thinking I will create a second map, add the external switch, retard timing and take away 2% of fuel below 1,000 rpms.
07-20-2018, 10:22 PM
Pc iii ....
