Oily air filter problem solved. Air filter vacuum chamber with drain solenoid.
#41
I did some research to see what is out there. Most either run mist directly into intake or push to atmosphere or catch can T man external breather kit pretty much runs breather directly into your oil tank, looks alot of labor involved Also it doesn't use your existing vacuum to maintain EPA intent I did pull some mist from the vacuum chamber, was off color but saw no water. Not sure how oil going through umbrella and foam picks up water .Thanks fo the input,ride on
#42
I did some research to see what is out there. Most either run mist directly into intake or push to atmosphere or catch can T man external breather kit pretty much runs breather directly into your oil tank, looks alot of labor involved Also it doesn't use your existing vacuum to maintain EPA intent I did pull some mist from the vacuum chamber, was off color but saw no water. Not sure how oil going through umbrella and foam picks up water .Thanks fo the input,ride on
1. T man breather really vent to the atmosphere. Tman adds an external vent to the oil tank. He routes the head breather to the oil tank, which are likely not passing much combustion leakage as the cam case to oil tank vent passage is.
2. The combustion process results in burning is about 1/2 water. In other words when you burn gasoline about 1/2 of the reaction with O2 burning is water. If you have say 5% cylinder leakage. 5% of the gas burned get into the crankcase of which 1/2 or about 2 1/2 % is water. So of a gallon of gas (approx 6 lbs) generates 0.15 Oz (wt) water that gets into the crankcase in the form of gaseous water molecules. The amount of water that condenses into water vapor is anyone's guess but when the motor is cool, some will.
3. I'm not too hot on dumping collected water into the oil tanks on shutdown using a solenoid valve. Most of the grey poupon stuff will bleed off the moisture but short runs on the bike will likely dump a far amount of water in to the oil tank. The water won't be pure and could have corrosive salts in it. Probably not an issue if you ride a minimum of 25 miles when getting on the bike (get everything hot, boil off moisture).
#43
#44
Things to note.
1. T man breather really vent to the atmosphere. Tman adds an external vent to the oil tank. He routes the head breather to the oil tank, which are likely not passing much combustion leakage as the cam case to oil tank vent passage is.
2. The combustion process results in burning is about 1/2 water. In other words when you burn gasoline about 1/2 of the reaction with O2 burning is water. If you have say 5% cylinder leakage. 5% of the gas burned get into the crankcase of which 1/2 or about 2 1/2 % is water. So of a gallon of gas (approx 6 lbs) generates 0.15 Oz (wt) water that gets into the crankcase in the form of gaseous water molecules. The amount of water that condenses into water vapor is anyone's guess but when the motor is cool, some will.
3. I'm not too hot on dumping collected water into the oil tanks on shutdown using a solenoid valve. Most of the grey poupon stuff will bleed off the moisture but short runs on the bike will likely dump a far amount of water in to the oil tank. The water won't be pure and could have corrosive salts in it. Probably not an issue if you ride a minimum of 25 miles when getting on the bike (get everything hot, boil off moisture).
1. T man breather really vent to the atmosphere. Tman adds an external vent to the oil tank. He routes the head breather to the oil tank, which are likely not passing much combustion leakage as the cam case to oil tank vent passage is.
2. The combustion process results in burning is about 1/2 water. In other words when you burn gasoline about 1/2 of the reaction with O2 burning is water. If you have say 5% cylinder leakage. 5% of the gas burned get into the crankcase of which 1/2 or about 2 1/2 % is water. So of a gallon of gas (approx 6 lbs) generates 0.15 Oz (wt) water that gets into the crankcase in the form of gaseous water molecules. The amount of water that condenses into water vapor is anyone's guess but when the motor is cool, some will.
3. I'm not too hot on dumping collected water into the oil tanks on shutdown using a solenoid valve. Most of the grey poupon stuff will bleed off the moisture but short runs on the bike will likely dump a far amount of water in to the oil tank. The water won't be pure and could have corrosive salts in it. Probably not an issue if you ride a minimum of 25 miles when getting on the bike (get everything hot, boil off moisture).
#45
Thanks for the info , nice write up . If you notice the vacuum chamber is close enough to engine to pick up heat cooking off moisture and is constantly being vented by the intake vacuum. With the solenoid valve closed it's a closed system maintaining the EPA intent and keeping oil away from air cleaner . When engine is shut down the cooked down settled mist is returned to tank From what I've collected after some hard.runs is a couple of tablespoons. Both bikes are perfect candidates being 110 and 124 deep breathers. I know some models have their tank above the engine and after sitting collect bleed back to sump a whole other issue hd should deal with. I've put on several clean miles on the bikes with no issues. I'm in the process of making a better looking stainless version with more capacity. Thanks for the input, very informative
Your won't pick up enough heat. It needs to have an inside temp of greater than probably about 180F for vapor pressure to be low enough for the water to vaporize. You'll need to mount the unit to a location where is can pick up heat from a motor. Say, mill a flat somewhere and screw it to the flat.
You seem to be worried about what happens under high speed. If that is all you are doing, you'll like be OK but I doubt you run wide open throttle all the time. Running around at lower speeds, starting and stopping the ride (motor warming to temp and cooling off), is where you are going to have issues. You fix one problem and create another.
#46
Your won't pick up enough heat. It needs to have an inside temp of greater than probably about 180F for vapor pressure to be low enough for the water to vaporize. You'll need to mount the unit to a location where is can pick up heat from a motor. Say, mill a flat somewhere and screw it to the flat.
You seem to be worried about what happens under high speed. If that is all you are doing, you'll like be OK but I doubt you run wide open throttle all the time. Running around at lower speeds, starting and stopping the ride (motor warming to temp and cooling off), is where you are going to have issues. You fix one problem and create another.
You seem to be worried about what happens under high speed. If that is all you are doing, you'll like be OK but I doubt you run wide open throttle all the time. Running around at lower speeds, starting and stopping the ride (motor warming to temp and cooling off), is where you are going to have issues. You fix one problem and create another.
#47
#49
This is my improved design I installed on my 110 street glide. I listened to the comments and went stainless and increased the capacity. I ran the original prototypes on both bikes around 4000 miles without issue. I used the same plumbing but added a vent for oil tank to let breath in case of solenoid valve failure . Solenoid valve is very simple electro magnet,not prone to failure. I'm in the process of making one for my 124 dyna , a little different look
#50
This is my improved design I installed on my 110 street glide. I listened to the comments and went stainless and increased the capacity. I ran the original prototypes on both bikes around 4000 miles without issue. I used the same plumbing but added a vent for oil tank to let breath in case of solenoid valve failure . Solenoid valve is very simple electro magnet,not prone to failure. I'm in the process of making one for my 124 dyna , a little different look