Clutch lever hard to pull on the 2010 triglide?
 

Does any one with the 2010 triglide have a problem pulling the clutch lever?

I know the 2009 clutch levers are hard to pull.

Somewhat. I started a thread on the subject a month ago and there are some good responses. I don't find it too hard, but it's a heck of a lot harder than my Heritage. My wife will be riding the trike, however, and that's the issue for us. She is healing from a collar bone break right now, so we don't yet know whether there will be a problem (she is left handed, which may help). One suggestion is to install a variable pressure clutch (VPC) from AIM.

I must have missed the response.
I did put one on the 09.
I was hoping moco would have taken care of this situation on the 2010.

Do you know, if you have the dealer installs VPC,before delivery of a new triglide, willl the warrantee be covered for this part on the unit? I have orderd an 2010 for wife.

Msocko3 should have the answer to that question, as he has ridden his dad's 09 and now has the 10. I would think they would be the same though, as not much changed on the 10.

Clutch pull is identical between the 09 and the 10. The spring they are using is the same spring they put in the CVO bikes. The ony real solutions are to put a VP70T in or Hydraulic clutch. Obviously the VP70T is the cheapest solution and what I would do. Adding a VPC should not impact the warranty.

I have about 250 miles on my 2010. It's easier than I expected. It is harder than the hydraulic on my '03 SERK though, but not by much.

Steve

Hard Clutch
 

I think all the Tri's clutches are harder to pull! They put the Heavy Duty Clutch and SE-Compensator in the Trikes because of the extra weight. This is a good thing and they seem to wear in by the first 1000 service. I would give it a chance to see if it gets any better. The Hydraulic clutch for the lady's may not be a bad way to go. I have a busted wrist from a motorcycle wreck years ago and could use an easier clutch handle pull sometimes.

My dealer is thinking about starting to sell and install the auto clutch several company's make now. They work off centrifical force and you don't have to even hold the clutch in at lights. When the RPM gets down so,low they kick out and when you just leave it in 1st gear. When you roll on the throttle the clutch engages and then you use the clutch to change gears with as normal.

Really gets tiresome at long lights for the lady's and this may be the route to go. Like I said, I am thinking of one myself!:icon_moped:

yeah my dad had the hydraulic clutch installed because he said the cable was hard to pull. now mind you he has the 110 on the triglide

I would recommend the VPC on a mechanical clutch. Don't do both. Unless Harley has came out with a stronger hydraulic unit, it will not properly pull the stiffer spring in the TG. There is a disclaimer in the instructions indicating they are not to be used with the SE spring, which is close enough to the stiff spring used. I ignored it and installed the hydraulic unit over an SE spring and it will work.....barely, but requires constant bleeding and attention. When you attempt to combine the hydraulic unit with the VPC, the increased pressure at higher rpm generated by the VPC will defeat the hydraulic clutch resulting in hard shifting, gear clash and gear hanging. Don't waste your money on the Harley hydraulic unit unless the dealer guarantees it. There are some aftermarket hydraulic units out there that may....but the off-the-shelf HD unit won't. At least...it did not for me.