Have a 16 Low Rider S with the SE110 motor. All I did to it was a Supertrapp supermeg pipe, changed the heavy breather to a Ventilator and got a dyno tune. The dyno tune started with a tune sent to me by Jamie from FuelMoto, which was making good power, and the tuner tweaked it to squeeze a couple more foot lbs out of it and smooth out the AFR.

Before the tune, I saw some exhaust discoloration, which I wrote off to a not so great tune before I got the fuelmoto/dyno tune. Supertrapp sent me a new shell for the muffler to resolve the discoloration. I swapped the guts and reinstalled it. A couple of weeks later I noticed it starting to discolor again, so I started looking into heat issues.

I got an IR thermometer and saw readings of about 500 deg at the point where the collector joins the muffler, which doesn't seem so bad. So I hooked up the PV and took some engine temp readings and was surprised to see 280+ deg temps while riding not so hard, on a 85deg day.

ETIMS doesn't come on as far as I can tell, which also surprises me considering it will climb to 300 coming off a high speed run at idle.

Here is the dyno printout, the AFR looks good to me, so I can't see what is causing the heat. (Don't say the internal combustion of the motor lol)



Sorry for the rotation.

Any ideas where to look? Thanks.

 

Anyone have any ideas?

 

Both runs show you are lean until 3000 - 3500 rpm - I would start there - that's where you spend most of your time
Eastcoast Jim

 

I dropped the AFR in the cruise range and saw a drop in engine temps of 20 deg. Now cruising at 262. But it was a cooler day. Holding judgments until a similar 85 deg day.

Before



After

 

Also look into getting oil cooler or cooling fans or both of you are still concerned about temp. I have Wards FCS cooling fans. They keep my engine temps at 230 in stop and go traffic on 80 degree day.

 

If you notice the graph (WOT only) the AFR line looks to be well above 13.0 below 3500 rpms.
Now look at the set target AFR @ 12.6 all the way through the rpms.
If the VEs are set properly (recalibrated) the WOT will be the same as the target.
This graph simply points out that the basic setup (VEs) are not recalibrated properly.
This is what seems hard to understand...The target AFRs are only accurate AFTER the VEs have been recalibrated. If they are not correct target AFR will not net expected results.
One benefit rarely talked about concerning a dyno tune is the ability to quickly identify unexpected results caused by either calibration errors or hardware (incl sensors) are not properly working which causes unexpected results and frustration.
Bob