09 FLHX, Woods 555 Cams, AN Big sucker, S&S Power Duals, and RC Slip-ons. Tuned with Power Vision.

All though not a major issue, it's definitely an annoying one. When the bike is cold, start it up and it initially idles at 1250-1300 RPM like it's supposed to. The problem is, after about 10 seconds, the idle drops to 1000 for about 3 seconds, goes back up to 1250+/- for a few seconds, then drops back to a 1000. It repeats this until the bike goes into closed loop and then it settles down. It runs great otherwise and never stalls out, lags or hesitates. I've cleaned the air filter and cleaned/inspected the throttle body. I can't imagine it has anything to do with the tune so I suspect it's an electrical or some other issue with the throttle body (inspect and apply dielectric grease to the connector routinely). Doesn't throw any codes.
Anyone got any experience with this type of issue and have advice on troubleshooting?

 

it has everything to do with the tune. It's bouncing around in the VE table idle range and some of the cells are rich, some lean. You need to get those cells all tuned properly you smooth out the idle

 

I sent my tune in to be revised, got it back, loaded, and nothing changed. I don't think the tune is the problem because I've never messed with the VE tables in the idle range and I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think running the autotune changed them either. Oh well... It's not that big of deal, just annoying. But if I figure it out I'll provide an update.

 

Assuming no intake leaks, it's in the tune. Take it to a real tuner and it'll get straightened out. Mail order tunes never work!

 

So it's been awhile and this cold idling issue has gotten worse. Now when I start it, it will idle up to 1350 or so and then after a few seconds, the rpms come down and it stalls out. Start it back up, it will fluctuate but eventually evens out after it's warm. Nothing in the tune has changed in the idle area. I googled the crap out of these symptoms and didn't find anything that sounded similar but, it seems the engine temperature sensor could be the culprit. Still don't have any codes but I did an ohms check on it and compared the reading to what is in the service manual. The bike had been setting for at least a day and the temperature in the garage was around 65 degrees. The ohms reading was around 2300 (can't remember exactly) and according to the manual, that equates to around 85 degrees (hooked the PV up and it read this also). Maybe the ET sensor is going bad and telling the ECM the bike is warmer than what it is? After I started the bike, I was monitoring the ET through the PV and it went from 85 to 160+ in less than a minute. Seems odd to me but maybe it's normal. Any thoughts?

 

IME, as mentioned previously, you are chasing a tuning issue. (Assuming there are no defective sensor readings)
Assuming the calibration put in the bike will not need tuning (calibration) is simply not true in most cases.
There are many variables (ie: injector production output variables) that affect actual running that may be significantly different than the bike the calibration was developed from.
IMO, 99.9% of bikes will benefit and run better and properly recalibration for actual variables, both OE production and replacement/aftermarket parts and assemblies.
Tune the bike and you will be amazed at the difference...including idle quality from cold to hot.
Bob

 

try adjusting the warm up slope in the tuning tables,,,,doesn't affect the VE, just the temp slope for the warm up fuel enrichment. save your starting values so you can go back to it if you get lost or confused. warm up fuel enrichment.
m

 

You might log your IAC position on a cold start.
Also Check your Idle RPM table, it has startup speeds at different temps and run times.

Let the bike idle until it warms up while logging rpm, map VE Front, VE New Front, VE Rear, VE New Rear, CLI Front, CLI Rear and IAC.

You should also be able to see any VE differences once you hit closed loop in the log, you may adjust the idle rpm range VEs to see if it helps.

Adjust the IAC Warmup steps to match what you see in the log at each temperature. I'll usually average all the log entries at a specified temperature with Excel.

Hope it helps.

 

Long story short, yes, you all are correct, it is in the tune. I spent Friday night and a lot of Saturday creating log files, analyzing, and make incremental adjustments to the lower end of the VE and spark advance tables. I compared my current tune to the original one I used to run auto tune on, and the VE's had been greatly reduced. The cold idle now is 95% fixed. Just have minor fluctuation. I've also had to adjust a lot of cells under the 2500 rpm range. The bike runs great but under 2500, it vibrates more than it should. A couple more minor tweaks and it will be good to go. I appreciate the replies...