2001 roadking exhaust popping & throttle body chirp
#1
2001 roadking exhaust popping & throttle body chirp
I have a 2001 roadking that has exhaust popping on deceleration.
At idle and/or just above idle I am hearing a chirp from the throttle body with or without the air cleaner. Hesitation on throttle input and a miss.
It is idling a little low cold and warm.
I have done the following since I bought the bike last year.
New;
Fuel pump ( after market), in tank lines (oem) , cleaned return and high pressure lines to the injectors. New tank cover gasket ( oem)
Pulled injectors and soaked them in Lucas injector cleaner
Cleaned fuel tank
New spark plugs ( tan color on electrodes)
I have searched forums and going to try propane leak test.
Any other ideas/ advice welcomed
Thanks
At idle and/or just above idle I am hearing a chirp from the throttle body with or without the air cleaner. Hesitation on throttle input and a miss.
It is idling a little low cold and warm.
I have done the following since I bought the bike last year.
New;
Fuel pump ( after market), in tank lines (oem) , cleaned return and high pressure lines to the injectors. New tank cover gasket ( oem)
Pulled injectors and soaked them in Lucas injector cleaner
Cleaned fuel tank
New spark plugs ( tan color on electrodes)
I have searched forums and going to try propane leak test.
Any other ideas/ advice welcomed
Thanks
#2
sounds like an IAC.
if the temperature sensor is bad, cold starts will be labored or warm performance can have issues if ecm does not go into closed loop mode. a TPS that is bad can cause throttle issues as it tells the ecu your demand, ecu also uses it to determine idle.
ecu's have progressed over time so it is hard to say what your system actually does for ex: on coast down, the TPS tells ecu no demand, ecu sees rpm above threashold and cuts off fuel to prevent fuel build up in exh. and when crossing point is reached, turns fuel back on. your best bet is to get a fuel injection book even though automobiles to get a foundation because they pretty much follow the same path.
any code???
lazy O2 can cause surge and map can cause lack of power and heat issues since it tells the ecu what load the engine is seeing.
if the temperature sensor is bad, cold starts will be labored or warm performance can have issues if ecm does not go into closed loop mode. a TPS that is bad can cause throttle issues as it tells the ecu your demand, ecu also uses it to determine idle.
ecu's have progressed over time so it is hard to say what your system actually does for ex: on coast down, the TPS tells ecu no demand, ecu sees rpm above threashold and cuts off fuel to prevent fuel build up in exh. and when crossing point is reached, turns fuel back on. your best bet is to get a fuel injection book even though automobiles to get a foundation because they pretty much follow the same path.
any code???
lazy O2 can cause surge and map can cause lack of power and heat issues since it tells the ecu what load the engine is seeing.
#3
Thanks for the reply and info. I will be looking into the iac ang setting my idle for cold/warm this weekend. Seems like a good place to start , then see if the chirp is still present.
I have watched the iac move when switching the ignition on and off.
The cel is not on so I'm assuming no codes. Nearest shop is 100 miles from me.
I have watched the iac move when switching the ignition on and off.
The cel is not on so I'm assuming no codes. Nearest shop is 100 miles from me.
#4
****** update ******
Following the steps outlined in the service manual, I have set the cold idle at .65 volts. The warm idle has been adjusted accordingly.
I used a propane bottle and a hose to check the seals at the cylinders and saw no change in idle.
The iac moves as stated in the service manual. ( assuming it's good )
Results ;
Still runs rough ( engine shakes pretty hard)
Still has a miss with the chirp coming from the throttle body
Cold idle is better
Warm idle is better
So the search continues.
Following the steps outlined in the service manual, I have set the cold idle at .65 volts. The warm idle has been adjusted accordingly.
I used a propane bottle and a hose to check the seals at the cylinders and saw no change in idle.
The iac moves as stated in the service manual. ( assuming it's good )
Results ;
Still runs rough ( engine shakes pretty hard)
Still has a miss with the chirp coming from the throttle body
Cold idle is better
Warm idle is better
So the search continues.
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