I recently had a Power Vision installed on my 2009 Road King Classic in conjunction with upgrading my engine. Everything is running just fine but I've notice two problems.

First, the display will occasionally go blank. I've got it set up to display RPMs, engine temp, gear, and average MPG (and odd combination, I know). Every once in a while the numbers will just disappear from the screen. I've noticed that if I toggle to a different view and back to the primary view, the numbers return. Worst case, if I turn off the bike and turn it back on, the numbers are once again properly displayed.

I happened onto the second problem today while trying to toggle to a secondary view. In one of my secondary views I have the front and rear WO2 readings. Today (and not before, that I've noticed) the reading for the front cylinder was stuck on 17.90. To be more precise, when I turn on the ignition and run switch, both front and rear display 17.90. When I start the engine, they both display a reading other than 17.90 for just a second, then both go back to 17.90. Then, after a second or two, the rear cylinder display goes to what I believe to be a true reading -- ranging between 11 something to 14 something, depending on throttle position, and other factors. The front cylinder display, however, remains stuck on 17.90.

Any ideas? I've wiggled the connectors and all seem to be tight. I have the target tune device installed, but I am not running auto tune.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

 

Do you have any codes? Maybe a lean condition for the front cylinder?

I would make sure the front O2 sensor is tight in the exhaust.
Make sure you do not have an exhaust leak at the cylinder head.
Disconnect the front O2 sensor and check the pins closely. (they may be backed out slightly)

The gauge stopping seems common, usually related to RFI/EMI interference.
I also run a gauge for Gear# and Trip A fuel used, both of these data items are only logged occasionally (not in every log entry)
I will be testing the gauges without these data items to see if display/logging improves but probably not till it warms back up and the snow is gone
Make sure you have the PV cable as far away from the spark plug wires/ coil as possible.
You may get some improvement with 5mm Inner Diameter Ferrite Core Cord Ring RFI EMI Noise Filters on each end of the PV cable. (about $10 for a 10 pack from Amazon) I have these and it has not completely eliminated the issue but it does seem to be improved.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Check all your wire connections. When the O2 sensor reads 17.9 it is open, once warmed and ready it'll read whatever your afr is. The one that won't read after awhile is suspect of the wiring not connected. Your other issues may prove connections also. My $.02.

 

No codes -- at least none related to the front cylinder. I didn't read them myself, but I took it down to the shop that installed the engine and the PV and he read them. Said there were some codes in there, but nothing that would be related to the front cylinder.

Thanks for the troubleshooting tips. I tried them. O2 sensor is tight. Pins look good, though I'm not sure how I would tell if they are all backed out the same amount. No indication of an exhaust leak.

I should note that until Saturday, these readings appeared normal.

Any other ideas?

 

Check the screw terminal connections at the Target Tune module. From your description it sounds like there is a loose wire or less than perfect connection which can affect the heater circuit.

 

Thanks. Any tips on checking those connections?

 

Brian from Fuel Moto suggested swapping the front and rear sensors to troubleshoot whether the front one was bad. Turned out to be a good suggestion. Looks like the sensor that was in the front, and is now in the rear, must be bad.

This is the sensor formerly installed in the front cylinder.



Here's the one from the rear.



And here's the Power Vision reading now that I have swapped them.

 

Switch the connection of the front O2 sensor with the rear O2 sensor. Leave sensors in place. If the 19.70 value switches to the rear, then you now it's from the connection, cables or PV. If it stays fixed to the front O2, then you need to look at the front sensor itself. You can measure the Ohms and voltage output. That should give you a good indication what could be wrong.

 

Do you think the cables are long enough to reach from the front sensor to the rear connector and vice versa? If so, this could be a good tip for future travelers. It won't tell me anything different than switching the sensors' positions (which I have already done) will it?

 

Actually switching the O2 sensors and not interchanging the cables will not make any difference. Can't you unplug the O2 front connector and plug the O2 rear connector in and vice versa. You should be able to do that at your controls module, and if not than indeed taking the front O2 sensor and place in the rear exhaust header and the other way around. Leaving the signal cables routed as it is.