So I've played with my mapping and have a good running engine with a significant amount of mods. I don't plan on doing any engine work for a few years at least and am looking at seeing what a tuner can do for me. I have a limited number of tuners in my area and the best one I know within 4 hours is charging almost $600. Anyone who has had a tune done, what kind of price have you paid for a good dyno tune?

 

Kansas City mo area you pay about have that if you already have a tuner. $600 with a tuner or Powervision license. Need to check though. not all Dyno shops will work with all the tuners out there.

 

07 RK, I have a TTS Tuner and I paid $ 400.00 for a Dyno tune at a Harley dealer...he set the AFR but no timing change...the biked pinged..I returned..he dropped 3/4 degree timing across the map...no difference, they told me ping is common in summer and use octane booster...Did"t like their answer so I messed with the timing my self and a little AFR adjustment and removed the ping, bike ran just fine from there.......moral of the story is to KNOW IF the guy tuning your bike KNOWS what he's doing for that kind of Money...

 

My dealer is charging $340 hr for dyno work right now, but that may be winter rates in ND.

 

That's the going rate for a good tuner...I paid 600 plus 300 for the direct link, which you keep for any future changes. He did a base run before exhaust and throttle body swap and then tuned after...expensive? Yes it is but it was worth every penny to me because it got rid of pinging, hard starting, throttle lag...typical with tbw, bike runs cooler and just ran great.

 

$299.00 Includes dyno setup and the first 2 hours of tuning. $99.00 for each addition hour as needed**

http://rrcycles.com/cart/index.php?m...roducts_id=209

 

Thanks for the info all. Now I start wondering if I should get head work, enlarge the valves, a larger throttle body, and a higher lift cam before going to dyno. Man this project creep can be a b!tch.

 

What kind of tuner are you now using?

 

IMO it is most important to have a clear goal and decide which engine builder to listen to and stick with it to the end. Do not get part way into the build then decide to alter the build to fit your new goal. That rarely, if ever, works out as expected.
You can have a great riding bike with stage 1 or 2. Built with low rpm torque in mind, cool running, and reliable.
Or you can choose to build a high compression fire breather. Have a noted engine builder assemble a great build for you! Do not assemble an engine formula from forum posts. 1000’s of forum members with 1000’s of options and combinations to offer up. Again, pick your builder, listen to him not the forums or pals or the magazine articles.
Too many folks get caught up in all the marketing and either don’t pick the best combos for their actual riding style or change the formula as they go.
Either way results are rarely as assumed/expected.
The other mistake I see all too often, is a shop builds a great running, powerful engine based on experience with a given formula of parts that work exceptionally well together. Ie: 128hp/122tq from a little 95” TC on pump 91octane.
That’s a bitchin’ 95”er and to assume a “latest” cam change, or a “latest” pipe change, or more compression, or even a different set of heads will be a worthwhile change powerwise is rarely the case.
What you should be clear with is that any change you make to the air going through the engine needs to have the fueling and timing recalibrated (tuned) for those changes. And yes, even stock stage1 bikes benefit from recalibration simply due to the plethora of variables induced from production tolerances.
It’s prolly a lot more information than you asked for but you are not alone with your thinking and I just hope my comments are taken in the spirit intended.
Bob

 

There’s a guy in Sandpoint that charges $199 for the Power vision key and two hours of dyno time and he figures two hours at $75.00 Should do it.
Another is $350 for a key for a direct link key and a few hours of dyno time at $75 an hour.