My 96 ultra will start and run then die as soon as you ride it if you let it just sit there and run it will idle forever you can rev it up roll it fronfwards and backwards even put it in gear and let the clutch out some and .move about 3 feet. But if you try to take it on a test lap it will just die and it's a bear to get back started when it does that. I've unplugged all the connections by the battery reset the ECU by unplugging the battery even went as far a unplugging the ECU thinking the connection is bad every connection I unplugged looked good. I'm just lost and know it has to be something simple I don't want to put it in the shop unless I absolutely have to

 

You need to look at fuel. A fuel pressure test will uncover issues causing lean condition.
Also a bad throttle position sensor can be suspect.
Bob

 

Could a bad cps be a culprit? I was thinking I could jump the pump and see if it starts. You can hear the pump prime when you turn the key on but I'm not sure it starts running while you are turning the engine. I will also look up how to do a fuel pressure test on it. Does anyone have a diagram for the relay so I can see where to put the jumper? Or is that a bad idea.

 

Hello and welcome.
If possible please provide as much information as possible since we are unable to see or touch the bike.
For example:
Is the bike fuel injected
Miles
Changes from factory stock----like a fuel adder if fuel injected, air box changes, any slip-ons, changes to motor, changes to handlebars etc.
A history of owner ship helps too...like how long you have owned the bike and when was the last time it operated correctly.
For example:
A bad CAM position sensor would be easy to locate by seeing beige melted goo releasing by your right floor board wire exit.
Bad fuel lines tend to leak at the swivel if bike is fuel injected.
Trash in the tank...as in loose tank liner can block the fuel inlet.
Right now with the minimal information available i would guess the liner in the tank got loose and released several pieces and block fuel inlet or sock.

 

From you saying you unplugged the ECU (ECM) I am guessing that the bike is Fuel Injected. If so check the barrel shaped connector behind the right side cover by the ECM. That is the Crank Position Sensor connector. These will often come loose, and the internals get corroded. Take it apart and inspect it, clean it up, put it back together, and cross zip tie it so it cannot come apart.

Actually, I am surprised that im didn't suggest this. He is usually right on with his knowledge of the Harley M&M EFI system.

 

any way you can post a pic of where it is or what it looks like? Sorry new to harleys

 

I just bought it from what I know it's a 3 owner fuel injected bike with 96k on the clock it's all stock except for de baffled pipes. To my knowledge it's all stock it was running great 3 days ago then the other day I hoped on it and rode it to the end of my road and it coughed and died. Started right back up ran for about 5 seconds and died then these problems started. I hope this helped. I'm trying to find the cps connector but don't quite know what I'm looking for

 

larsfum is 100% correct.
The CRANK sensor connector.
Just the connector.
The connector can get loose and it is a pencil thin black connector that pushes together and twists to lock.
If loose the bike cuts off.
Located on bike throttle side, behind painted cover on throttle side at seat area, remove cover, located at triangle frame area behind that painted cover, you need to check connector and then zip tie it...like this (- I = I -) to itself so it can not separate and then zip tie to frame.
To be clearer the sensor starts from oil filter area (just under oil filter) and is held with the one screw and then wire does a long run around the motor and switches to other side of bike as it goes behind painted cover on throttle side on the way to computer.
The sensor will be fine but the connector gets loose.
You can shake that wire connector behind the cover and the motor will stumble if loose.
If it was running good at all speeds then any simple bump or vibration will cut motor with a loose connector....let us know how it goes.

 

Its the cps sensor found it held it and it ran let go and died I need to figure out that zip tie method mentioned earlier I'm going to put some dielectric grease in it and zip tie her up and go ride

 

Keep in mind that dielectric grease is NOT a conductor but more of a corrosion inhibitor.
So carefull with that stuff.
To explain the zip tie situation better.
It looks like this...
wire, connector, connector, wire
zip tie #1 around wire on LEFT but do not tighten 100%, connector, connector,wire ....Place zip tie #2 around wire on RIGHT but do not tighten 100%
So now you have a zip tie on left wire and another on right wire that are NOT 100% tight
then
Run zip tie #3 under the zip tie that was not tightened 100% on left and push zip tie across over connector but under the other zip tie on the right that was not 100% tight.
then
tighten the zip tie #1 and #2 that were not 100% tight before.
then
Connect and tighten zip tie #3 you ran through the two loops created by zip tie #1 and zip tie #2
Basically making it impossible to disconnect, if twist lock gets loose the zip ties force connector to stay together.
Then zip tie to frame tube.