A big power big money build like that calls for excellent tuning. If you've bought a standard HD Stage IV kit, then the vendor that sold you that kit probably has a very close starting base map along with a recommended tuner to use to during the Dyno which shouldn't take too long to dial in by a reliable Dyno expert. At least for that day, temp, level above sea level, gas etc. But you can't beat a closed loop learning system such as the Dynojet Power Vision, with the wide-band Target Tune option to keep that tune dialed tweaked perfectly to the target tune, on any given day.

I know that the PowerVision/Target Tune supports this, and I "think" the TTS also does, but maybe someone can confirm. With my FuelMoto 107 Big Bore build the Dyno FM did was great, but adding Target Tune still made it better.

 

Sorry FLTRI17 I missed your response . I agree with what you said . I am PRo-Mod Car builder and have played with many variations on car ecms . The Hd World is similar but I have nothing good to say anyone of the areas Tuners. I will be doing this built . Hence the reason for the in dept questions .

 

 

From what Ive seen not really . there is always a reason to look for more Cash .

 

 

it is always a concern . I will have to look at that if a serious problem arrives. That is why I want to do my due diligence and find a tuner for the bike that suits my Mechanical attributes to eliminate using such shops . So my search continues to get feedback on such Tuners .

 

And KNOW and COMMUNICATE your expectations with the tuner. i made the mistake of not doing this and it has created a **** storm of trouble for me.

If you're going to have new pistons and cylinders, know what their manufacturer's recommended break-in strategy is. A lot of people ride their bike to the tuner with few miles / hours on it, and then some tuners will "break it in on the dyno" by doing a bunch of runs - including to red-line - which usually works out just fine but ...sometimes... doesn't. And if you broke it in contrary to the manufacturer's instructions and something goes sideways, you may be out a lot of cash replacing pistons and cylinders. (1st hand experience here). A bunch of people will tell you that hard break-ins are fine, but you gotta make that call yourself. Never again for me: Burned once, shy twice.

Also, make sure they do an advanced map, meaning they tune both cylinders independently, and make sure they tune ignition timing as well.

Get printouts of everything they'll provide you with, not just the dyno sheet. If they can give you AFRs, timing tables, etc, then get them, and tell them up front that you'll want those.

BIG piece of advise: Don't be that last bike tuned in any given day, when the tuner's attention to detail may have waned. Be the first or second. Also, tune early in the week, not on a Friday or weekend. The person who tuned my bike did it in about an hour, was rushing through it and told me he didn't want to tune so many bikes that day but the shop owner scheduled him for two tunes past the number he wanted to do. My appointment was late on a Saturday afternoon, and this guy wanted gone. Oh, and he didn't even touch the timing tables in spite of my build going from 88 inches to 100, and having a more radical cam grind in place.

Be informed and make it clear that you are. Set expectations and watch the process. Get proof in the form of documented results. Oh, and make sure your bike has a full tank of gas and has know other mechanical, fuel, or electrical issues.

 

 

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Not quite sure what you're asking.